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Kerfmaker made simple

Project by SPalm posted 118 days ago 2094 views 43 times favorited 21 comments Add to Favorites Watch

After seeing treeman’s excellent project of creating a Kerfmaker, I knew I had to have one. I did not really want to spend the required time right now to build his version, so I decided to reduce it down to the simplest required parts.

The main requirement is to have a sliding and locking bar that includes the width of a saw blade. I decided to make the saw width permanent because I usually use the same blade for doing this type of work. By having this a permanent thickness for the gauge, the build becomes half as easy. (Twice as easy?)

Creating a locking and sliding bar set was the next challenge. I really did not want to have to route a groove, so I made an overlapping ledge that will be pinched to form the lock. A bolt, large washers, and a T-nut created to locking mechanism.

The build took very little time. It is around 5 inches long. I used 3/4 inch stock with 1/4 inch top. I oversized the top pieces, glued them to the stock, and used the belt sander to clean them up. A one inch long 1/4 inch bolt was used for the lock. I inset the T-nut a little off center to maximise the clamping surface. The lock is very strong with a slight twist of a wrench. I nice knob here would be a good improvement, but heh.

To compensate for the exact width of the blade, I came up with a technique. Cut both sticks to the same length by closing the device all the way shut. Cross cut through both sticks to make them flush. Now the stick without the end piece on it needs to be reduced by a saw thickness. Clamp and cut a piece of scrap on the right hand side of a miter gauge. Slide this stick right up to this scrap and cut. Exactly one thickness will be removed.

Good luck,
Steve

-- Stevethepeeve -- I'm no rocket surgeon


21 comments so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

2732 posts in 541 days


posted 118 days ago

1. glad to see a new post from you… :)

2. this is a fantastic jig. thanks for introducing it again for those of us that missed the previous posts about it. definitely something that should be in any shop. added to my never ending list.

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View BeachedBones's profile

BeachedBones

187 posts in 294 days


posted 118 days ago

Nice and simple, maybe even simple enough for me to try.

You could probably make a couple of these for your different thickness blades. You’d just have to keep them marked somehow so you don’t mix them up.

-- You know.... I think that old wood needs to be furniture.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

7601 posts in 1110 days


posted 118 days ago

Steve, I saw the original post, and you have done a great job of simplifying the build. Now I just have to go back and watch the video. I can intuitively see the point of this, but am still not quite visualizing exactly how it works. LOL!

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View treeman's profile

treeman

149 posts in 342 days


posted 118 days ago

Looks simple enough you could make one for every groove cutter you have.

Charlie M.,

This geometry will explain how it works.

View Greg Wurst's profile

Greg Wurst

716 posts in 725 days


posted 118 days ago

Wow, I have to build one of these now. Quick, simple, and effective.

-- You're a unique and special person, just like everyone else.

View Kent Shepherd's profile

Kent Shepherd

805 posts in 178 days


posted 118 days ago

Cool!——Thanks

-- Kent Shepherd * The goal is-----More Tools!

View SimonSKL's profile

SimonSKL

101 posts in 131 days


posted 118 days ago

Until I see this post I didn’t even know what a Kerfmaker is. This is ingenious! Thanks for simplifying this clever device to make it doable at my skill level. That will be my next project.

-- Simon, Danville, IL

View David65's profile

David65

160 posts in 178 days


posted 117 days ago

Very nicely done I like it.

-- David '65

View reggiek's profile

reggiek

704 posts in 162 days


posted 117 days ago

Now we see real LJ’s….we will buy no tools that we can make! I like the idea and certainly will join in the que to get one made….I like the simplicity here…although Treeman’s was very nice too…

I am currently working on another jig I want to use for making segmented/staved vessels…soon as that is done I should have some spare hardwood for this…

Thanks for taking the hard parts and breaking them down for us…NICE JOB.

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View Karson's profile

Karson

25794 posts in 1293 days


posted 117 days ago

Great job Steve.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View Mike Gager's profile

Mike Gager

215 posts in 159 days


posted 117 days ago

am i the only one that doesnt get what this is supposed to do? :-/

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

944 posts in 774 days


posted 117 days ago

Thanks everyone.

Mike,
It is a jig for easy control of the width of the groove for inserting various thicknesses of cross pieces. These width of these grooves are usually just cut by trial and error. The best thing to do is probably to view the video at Bridge City.

Video>

-- Stevethepeeve -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View Lee A. Jesberger's profile

Lee A. Jesberger

3710 posts in 872 days


posted 117 days ago

HI Steve;

Too bad they don’t have a workbench. Then they could stop beating on their saw table!

Nice little jig.

Very handy.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

View John Stegall's profile

John Stegall

210 posts in 409 days


posted 117 days ago

I now use a Delta 745 and I really do not want to overload the motor by using a dado blade. At least this will allow me to see if I can get satisfactory results w/o using the dado. Thanks to treeman bringing this to our attention and SPalm for this simple way of making one. At first I wondered if it needed to be made out of aluminum or brass, but I think I have a piece of mesquite that needs to be made into one of these.

-- jstegall

View blackcherry's profile

blackcherry

730 posts in 715 days


posted 117 days ago

Hey Steve, nice job on your design, it looks like a handy and useful tool. Thanks for sharing…Blkcherry

View bobthebuilder647's profile

bobthebuilder647

68 posts in 145 days


posted 117 days ago

I had been thinking of something for this purpose and kept thinking of some sort of hinged mechanism where the one side would be adjustable or something. Anyway, those ideas are all sawdust now after seeing these. I’m making one tomorrow.

Thanks a bunch for all who posted these designs.

-- Rick, Pa. Courage is what it takes to stand up and speak; courage is also what it takes to sit down and listen.

View Maderaman's profile

Maderaman

1 post in 137 days


posted 117 days ago

Thanks for the post…building mine tonight…

View Mike Gager's profile

Mike Gager

215 posts in 159 days


posted 117 days ago

ahhhh thanks for the video steve man i was thinking it was used to set dado stack widths lol.

this is very cool!

View depictureboy's profile

depictureboy

305 posts in 535 days


posted 81 days ago

do you think you could also set the kerfmaker to measure the thickness of your toothblade, then crosscut both pieces to make them flush, then when you set it back it even, you will have that one piece shorter…or am I missing something?

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

16598 posts in 469 days


posted 81 days ago

good job

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

944 posts in 774 days


posted 81 days ago

Hey, this little tool has had quite a ride. Lots of versions.

PictureBoy, I think I see what you are saying. Open the ‘caliper’ and close it on the blade you want to use. Lock it with this measurement. Crosscut the ends flush. Now the device will be calibrated to the width of the blade. It should work.

I see some problems with it although. The blade you are trying to measure would have a tendency to dig into the wood, which could lead to an inaccurate measurement. I don’t know.

I think the adjustable screw out the end seems to be the most common way people are compensating for the blade width. Late on that Sunday night when I tried to reduce this little jig to its minimum configuration, I was just thinking “minimal, minimal”, so I only wanted one adjustment, and this is what I came up with. I still am not crazy about a single little screw head being the contact point, but it seems to be working for people.

Just as we have one sliding/locking bar, we could have two sliding/locking bars. This would give more surface area for the jig to be slammed against.

Steve

-- Stevethepeeve -- I'm no rocket surgeon

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