inlay banding jig

Nice idea, Ken. Looks like a good way for cutting thin strips. What do you think about the idea of a feather board opposite of the adjustable piece? Might make it a little easier to keep the wood feeding in the right direction. Thanks for the post.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

well done Ken

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

Ken, that looks like a great idea. I might be missing something, though. What is the reason for sending the thin cutoff away from the blade at such a steep angle? At first look, it seems like a shallower angle on the rear fence would accomplish the same thing with less stress on the piece.

(I’m just trying to make sure I fully understand your idea before I steal it.)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

What a great idea and jig…......... I had the same question as Charlie and also can see more uses for a jig like this for thins strips other than banding. Thanks for posting ….............

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/

A great idea and others seem to making revisions already.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

Looks great Ken,

-- Mike, Bruce Mississippi = Jack of many trades master of none

That is brilliant, Ken!

-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas

that’s pretty cool… I can see that coming in handy.

nice leg work too!

-- ~ www.darrylmasterson.com ~ www.darrylmasterson.etsy.com ~ www.woodworkingdungeon.blogspot.com ~

tenontim, a featherboard would work well as long as it was completely flat on the bottom of the fingers. In other words there could be no radius on the underside of the fingers, which could allow the thinner strips to ride underneath, unexpectedly. a1jim, TY Sir. CharlieM1958, excellent observation and correct call. I am actually going to modify my angle on the rear fence tomorrow. Less of an angle on the rear fence will eliminate stress on the thin cut offs. I haven’t had one break due to this stress as of yet, however all the banding I’ve cut thus far is white oak and it is very resilient. majeagle1, hope I was able to handle your question with my comment to CharlieM1958 and I hope that it can be of some benefit to you as well. The jig I mean. Karson, I’m sure glad that they are making those revisions. Maybe I can figure out how to use it properly now-LOL. griff, TY Sir. FirehouseWoodworking, TY for the compliment. But as you can see there is room for a lot of refinement yet. Ty, again Guys, I always feel better after I’ve run something by you and recieved your input, after all I’m still trying to learn something about this finicky medium we like so much!

Sincerely,
Ken McGinnis
p,s, CharlieM1958 it is however still necessary to take the square corners off two edges to form a taper prior to inlaying in the groove for the best fit-LOL

-- woodbutcher north carolina

Nice jig, I’ve been looking for something of this nature. Do you experience any kickback or tearout from the thin strips? Especially when at the end of your rip cut?

-- James, Bluffton, IN

p,s, CharlieM1958 it is however still necessary to take the square corners off two edges to form a taper prior to inlaying in the groove for the best fit-LOL

Bull…. an 8 lb. sledgehammer works fine for that. :-)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

hackman24, there would be kick back at the end of the rip cut if it were not for using a push piece. There must be attention paid to the ripping and adequate pressure applied both lateraly and forward all the way through the cut! CharlieM1958 suggested earlier that the angle on the rear fence appeared to be quite acute, I agree with him and will be modifying this fence tomorrow. It very well may alleviate some of the tendency to kick back the offcut, we’ll see!CharlieM1958, now I gotta buy a heavier hammer I suppose! Well I guess I still learn something new everyday.

-- woodbutcher north carolina

Great idea. I think I’ll do one one of these days. The first thing I thought of when I saw it was the angle previously discussed. Might make the front block adjustable too for varying width and add feather boards to keep the material against it and ther rear fence.

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

darryl, TY for the compliment on the leg work! I didn’t see your post earlier. I must have been too busy typing my first response. The leg is going to be used with the aprons, I believe you can just make out in the background of one of the pics’. I’m constructing a table to show my first attempt at inlaying. I hope to post the finished project here before much longer. TY again for looking.

Sincerely,
Ken McGinnis

-- woodbutcher north carolina

Ken -

Excellent! I am thinking we explore similar sites . . .

David

-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com

Since I have not specifically cut thin strips for inlays, I may not be able to appreciate why you’re doing this on a table saw at all. I admit I may be missing something. Not knowing any better, I’d prefer a band saw setup. Much safer than this too as you have mentioned. And band saw blade has a thinner kerf. It’s a very nice setup though if you have to do it on a table saw. Probably a little smoother cut surface but you wouldn’t need to do much sanding either way.

Thanks for sharing.

-- Tim S, WA

Nice thing. Good inspiration.
Thanks for sharing.

-- Jiri

Great job, and don’t listen to Charlie1958 he only has three fingers left on his left hand and one of those is a graft of his big toe, so he’s not the guy to listen to. Nice jig.

-- Mike. mwurm13@yahoo.com

Looks very clever. How thin can you get the banding using this method?

When I have some time, I’m really going to study the jig with hopes of doing the same thing, but I really wanted to comment on the leg shown. I looks really terrific. Great job. (I’ve always been a leg man, anyway) -SST

-- Accuracy is not in your power tool, it's in you

Is the angled block behind the blade aligned so its left edge (viewed from the front of the TS)
is in line with the left edge of the blade itself (like a split-fence on a router table would be used)?

What are you using to keep the sled fixed in place? Is there something in one of the miter slots which
isn’t visible?

Thanks,
G

-- Gary, Florida

David, if it has to do with wood working that is possible! Tim Scoville, I prefer this setup as opposed to using my bandsaw, simply because it’s quicker.more precise and requires no sanding of the strip afterwards. Plus it’s quickly adjustable for any width thin strip cutting.Jiri Parkman, TY, Sir. jockmike2, Ty for the compliment. As for CharlieM1958, I’m aware that he can pontificate to the point of causing one to purchase equipment beyond ones real needs. That’s why I rushed out and only bought a 7lb. sledge hammer, so as not to have to taper the underside on inlaying strips. Jon3, I’ve only cut about 3/64ths of an inch so far as tested. Shopsmithtom, TY Sir. I hope it may be of some use to you from a design starting point anyway. The leg hopefully will be shown again on here in a completed project in the not too distant future. Gary, you are correct on the placement of the rear fence. This actually allows one to pull the piece through the blade as well with the left hand. It just makes it a little easier. As far as keeping the sled in place is concerned, I’ve actually used screws long enough in the rear fence that penetrate the throat plate underneath the sled. Actually a sled is not the best description, when the rear fence is installed, as it cannot move at this point. Ty all for looking and your time to help with your observations.

Sincerely,
Ken McGinnis

-- woodbutcher north carolina

Very nice. I agree that featherboards would help a lot.

-- I never started a project I couldn't screw up.