|Project by Lee A. Jesberger||posted 2147 days ago||1954 views||5 times favorited||21 comments|
Continuing with the demilune tables, the legs can be made up from solid lumber, or in the case of the table shown, veneered.
Photo one shows the glue we use. Photo two shows the cutting tools we use. Photo three shows the cutting guides we use. The far right hand one is perfect for making accurate cuts, as it has a handle to apply pressure downward, and prevents the veneeer from slipping. Again using blue painter’s tape on finished cuts is important.
Typically I used veneered legs due to the fact they are cheaper to make from poplar, and covering them with a fancy wood. The process is rather simple. After cutting the legs to the desired shape, we cut veneer slightly wider and longer than the leg blanks.
Once the pieces are ready, we coat all four sides of the legs with a coat of Tite Bond II glue. We make the legs a little longer than needed, and screw them vertically to a piece of plywood. This way it’s easier to coat all four sides of all the legs with the glue. We also glue all the strips of veneer, on one side, with the same glue. This does cause the veneer to curl up like a spiral, so it’s important to keep them under control. Maybe some push pins to hold them down will help.
After a hour or two, depending on the humidity in your area, the glue will be completely dry, and ready to be used.
Now is where you go in the house and steal your wife’s iron. ( Later, just deny stealing it, with a line like, “yeah right, I stole your iron, I’m a closet ironer”). She’ll accept that.
Starting with the back side of each leg, and the iron set to medium high, place the veneer, glue to glue against the leg, and slowly iron it on. You’ll need a veneer roller or block of hardwood with rounded edges, to firmly “seat” the veneer to the leg blank. Work from one end to the other. After it cools, tap on the veneer with your fingernail, along the entire length. If any areas aren’t adhered well, you’ll hear a hollow sounding noise.
Once your happy with the adhesion, use a laminate trimmer with a bearing bit, and working with the grain, trim the veneer tight to the leg. An easy way to determine which way to go is look at the grain. The proper way is to verify that if the router bit grabs the veneer and tries to rip it, the rip will head out of the veneer, away from the leg, instead of deeper into the veneer towards the leg.
After all the backs are done, do the sides of the legs, using the same technique. after the sides are completed, do the fronts.
When done in this order, you won’t see the edge joints. As far as the glue goes, a molecular cross linking take place with this type of glue when heated. If you need to adjust something, you can reheat it an shift it. After 24 hours, this will no longer be possible. It’s permanent.
If you decide to do this using satinwood, be advised it is on of the more difficult veneers to work with, as it chips very easily, and is kind of tough to cut with a scapel.
To be continued…