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Hardwood flooring in my Living Room

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Project by Carpentrygal posted 06-17-2009 06:09 AM 1161 views 1 time favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch

The last picture is 13 years ago when we first moved in. It was the only pic I could find with the small divider wall(far left of the pic) that we uncovered.The next to last pic is closer to what the room looked like before laying the hardwood. The rest of the pics are after the hardwood and before the tung oil. They aren’t great pics but I tried to get a good view of the brick and load bearing post that was uncovered. I will post final pics when it’s all finished.

-- Denise, True success is finding out what God is doing and getting in on it.





5 comments so far

View woodbutcher's profile

woodbutcher

592 posts in 2882 days


#1 posted 06-17-2009 06:28 AM

Carpentrygal,
Looks like you’re going to have one more beautiful floor once the finishing is done. I notice that you have plank instead of strip flooring. What is the width? I’m guessing around 5” wide! Just thought I’d inquire as to spacing of the plank flooring around the perimeter and especially the brick and post areas. I can’t tell from the pics’ for sure, but you did leave at least 1/2” spacing between the wood and those stationary objects, I assume. The biggest problem most first time installers run into is installing the flooring to tightly.It will buckle up very easily, especially using plank instead of strip if there is insufficient spacing. It looks like you’ve allowed for this, but I can’t really see from the pics’. I do hope for your arms sake that you had an air assist nailer for the job and not the old fashioned manual nailer I’ve used in the past! Congratulations on a beautiful new floor again. Looking forward to seeing the finished pics’ as well.

Sincerely,
Ken McGinnis

-- woodbutcher north carolina

View Carpentrygal's profile

Carpentrygal

14 posts in 2014 days


#2 posted 06-17-2009 05:58 PM

Yes I did start the floor 1/2” from the walls and from the post. I went a little closer on the length end of the boards because I was told that the boards don’t expand and contract as much length wise. I hope this wasn’t a mistake. You can get some conflicting advice when your researching. I also expect to get more contraction than expansion because of the time of year it was laid. Is that correct thinking or not? Yes the flooring is 5” wide with the micro beveled edges. I wanted to eliminate the on site sanding as much as possible. Also the tung oil will patina the cherry to the exact color I want so I was also able to eliminate staining. I made this project as easy for unfinished flooring as I could go. The owner of Seneca Hardwood, which is where I bought my flooring, was amazingly kind enough to loan me (free of charge) his air assist stapler for the job. How easy it made it! I am a physically strong individual but I can’t imagine having done this job without it. By the way…every time I go in to my site it says there is 1 of 1 pictures. I don’t get that? Did you just know to click on the title and it would show you the other 5 pics?

-- Denise, True success is finding out what God is doing and getting in on it.

View woodbutcher's profile

woodbutcher

592 posts in 2882 days


#3 posted 06-17-2009 10:44 PM

Carpentrygal,
Yes, I did click on the project title and it displays the 5 pics’. On your homepage it displays 1 project, but you are allowed to post as many as 6pics with each new project entry, I believe. As for the expansion and contraction of the hardwood flooring, it sounds as if you should be OK! The micro/beveling will also extend the life of the finish, which ever type you choose to use, not just ease installation. Any dirt or debris will migrate toward the bevel and not remain on the flat walking area as long. The dirt and debris is easily removed from the micro/bevel channel via vacuuming or use of a Swiffer type mop. One last consideration!!!! What are you using as a finish? My suggestion which maybe coming too late to be of any benefit would be a polyurethane with aluminun oxide in it. These finishes have allowed the hardwood floor mfgs. to compete with the laminate flooring people as far as wear goes. The polymerized tung oil you mentioned will allow the patina and figure to show magnificently, but alone would not offer much in the way of protection from wear and scuffing. Finally, the quarter round molding you install should be nailed to the wall base molding, not to the subfloor below, but I bet you already knew that! Congrats again on a most beautiful floor,that Cherry is Da’ Bomb!

Sincerely,
Ken McGinnis

-- woodbutcher north carolina

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2538 days


#4 posted 06-17-2009 11:46 PM

This is a nice looking floor. This is undoubtedly the largest individual woodworking project that you will complete. Glad to hear you used a pneumatic nailer on the floor it really makes the job a lot easier and faster. But you do miss the cardio workout that you get from using a manual nailer. :)

Nice job. I am looking forward to seeing the floor after you have finished everything. Once the base and quarter round are applied it will take on an entirely different look.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Carpentrygal's profile

Carpentrygal

14 posts in 2014 days


#5 posted 06-19-2009 07:53 AM

It may be a little while before I post the final pics simply because my $ is almost depleted at the moment so I may not get the base and quarter round up for a little while and I haven’t decided how I want to cover the load bearing post yet. There have turned out to be many things that I didn’t realize that I was going to need with a project like this and I’ve had to prioritize. For instance I need to go get myself a few rugs and the walls need repainted. In reference to the cardio workout…4 years ago I finally left (with my husband’s wonderful support) a very well paying, physically strenuous, job because of repeated back injuries. I’d been going through physical therapy off and on and fixing myself up for so long that I was no longer able to get workman’s comp(this was a blessing in disguise). I finally got into driving school bus. It was a job that I could do but a lot of the damage had already been done. I ended up having surgery on my neck. This last fall my lower back really got bad. I was desperate to avoid having surgery again so I decided it was time to get in shape. This last January I started lifting weights 3x a week. At the end of the first day laying this floor I felt like I’d been hit with a truck. But the next morning when I got up… I felt great and haven’t had a problem since! In fact I haven’t had any back problems at all since I started lifting. If it’s done right, I highly recommend it. About the poly w/aluminum oxide. I may have been given the wrong info but I was thinking you can only get that in prefinished wood flooring. Everything I liked was way out of my price range. As far as other hard polyurethanes out there in comparison to the tung oil finish I chose. I have friends who have gone both ways.The poly is harder but both their floors showed scratches with dogs. The upkeep is just completely different. The poly had to sand her floors clear down to the wood and redo them after 10 years. The other did spot touch ups and reoiled her floor every few years but didn’t have to sand her floors down to the wood. It was a very hard decision but I decided to go this way because I can always add a hard sealer later if I’m not happy with it.

-- Denise, True success is finding out what God is doing and getting in on it.

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