Walnut Box with Inlaid Corners

Once again, only the best from you Charlie…............. very very nice!!! Really like the bookmatched top as well!!!!

I, like you, have been “meaning” to try the corner inlay and have always been curious as to the pumice/rottenstone finish process. So….......... if you could be so nice, what benefit do you see in this process from both a “finishing process” and a “final result”? Any thing you can think of that we should watch
out for if I try it? Could you use this finish process directly over Danish?

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/

Great looking box! I love small projects. I might have to try on of these myself. It looks like a lot of fun.

Thanks for sharing.

-- -- Rob Hix, King George, VA

Gene, the major advantage I see to the process is that you can never get that last coat of finish perfect, and the rubbing out removes those dust nibs and miniscule runs, while still giving you a glassy finish. Also, you can adjust the gloss level pretty easily by varying the coarseness of pumice/rottenstone, and the amount of lubricant you use.

As for using this directly over danish oil, maybe someone with experience will chime in. It seems to me that you’ve got to get a thick enough base down first if you really want to go totally smooth. I think rottenstone over danish oil would give you a real nice sheen, but just not as smooth a surface as a built up finish would give you.

The process is pretty labor intensive, but not bad for small pieces like boxes and such.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Great looking box Charlie. I like the finish technique you’ve used here. Well done.

Thanks for posting it.

-- Martin, Kansas

very nice piece … what are you going to put in it ? The photo with the flower reflection is an state fair prize winner.

-- work from your heart and your spirit will live forever

Thanks Charlie, something to think about and try…..............

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/

Charlie rocked it as usual!

-- "That Government is Best that Governs The Least."-Jefferson

I always look forward to your posts! This is the reason why!

-- spanky46 -- Never enough clamps...Never enough tools...Never enough time.

Hey charlie
This is a wonderful looking box(as all of yours are) with super details like inlaid corners and beautiful book matched top. It’s great.
I don’t want to sound critical about the process ,particularly with someone I think who always has a level headed common sense approach to most subjects. One of the things I wonder about is the use of steel wool with water base finishes that more times than not you end up with rust spots in your clear coat. I guess what I’m wondering is this something you’ve had success with or haven’t you used this combination before? Have you tried just going up to 1200 grit wet sanding with soapy water to the final coats with sand paper to rub out a finish and if you have how would you say that compares with rottenstone finish.
Jim

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

Beautiful job… the book matched top is killer….

Rob

-- Happy and safe woodworking, Flcopper169@aol.com

Thanks everybody!

Jim, good points. I probably should not have used steel wool, but honestly, I’m so used to using oil-based finishes, I didn’t think about it until I had already done it. But I still think I’m okay, because the finish was cured, and I was not coming back with any more water based finish on top. Steel wool between coats of water is a no-no for sure, though.

Wet sanding to 1200 with soapy water is something I have not tried, but I definitely will. Thanks for the thoughts!

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Nice little box.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

Charlie you are surely in the “box” seat when it comes to making fine looking boxes!!
Love your work and look forward to more..Bookmatched top is the way to go…
Larry from the land downunder

-- Drink once, cut twice. New website up.... lazylarrywoodworks.com.au

Well you aced it Charlie.
I see you have gone back to the old even hinge clasp discipline. :-0

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

Really very nice box and the inlaid corners make the difference.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

Excellent work Charlie. And congrats on the firsts…. That pumice and rottenstone combo is my favorite for boxes and panels….And you’re right, it takes a couple times to get it perfect, but its worth doing for sure….It really sets projects apart from just slapping on some shellac. I’ve been wanting to go the final step of auto polishing compound after the rottenstone, but have not done it in awhile….

I assume this top panel is bookmatched veneer? It has a nice little bit of figure, perfect for a gloss finish…

JC

-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

good looking box , charlie !
i guess that love boat cruise did you allot of good ,
in more ways than one .

-- david ,new mexico ,allheart

Great box Charlie. How do you do the inlay in the corners? Do you just use a router to create a groove and glue the accents in??? I have never done that before either and might give it try.

-- --It's not how long you live, but how you live that makes it a life.--

I learned the terminology from FWW awhile back. Pieces that have wood/veneer on both sides are called binding. Pieces with wood or veneer on just one side are called banding.

IE, the process would be called binding on this particular box….excepting perhaps the bottom if it is enclosed in a groove, which would then be banding :)

Fun :)

JC

-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

Really nice box, I like the finish, the inlay, and the color. So what is this box for?

-- Junji Sugita from Japan, http://tetra.blog12.fc2.com/

JC: The top is solid walnut, as is the rest of the box (except for the maple corners). I ripped a piece of 4/4 stock into 2” strips, and resawed them on the table saw, since I only have a small hobby bandsaw.

Duane: The process for the corners was pretty straightforward. I just made the box, then rabbetted all the edges on the router table, then glued on the maple strips. I cut the maple just slightly oversize so I could sand everything flush once it was all put together. The lid was cut free last.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Junji: What is the box for? To give me something to do. :-)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Charlie,
Hahaha! Nice one.
But putting the hinges that side seemed uncommon to me, so I thought there must be a special way or use of this box.

-- Junji Sugita from Japan, http://tetra.blog12.fc2.com/

Actually, I just thought it made sense for the box to open that way because of the orientation of the grain on the top.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Ah yes, it does make sense. so now you have to make something for the inside which makes sense fro the box, too!

-- Junji Sugita from Japan, http://tetra.blog12.fc2.com/

Charlie, are you concerned at all about expansion blowing out the bindings? I see a LOT of solid top boxes on this site with no expansion gaps….maybe I’m too paranoid? Then again, a few owners have reported blowouts….

In fact, the jewelry box I am working on has a sapele top about 5 inches wide….I looked up the expansion on that panel, and its around .13” ....I left .1, and even that looks HUGE….but it was hot and rainy the other day, and I went out into the shop to find that my gap was completely gone! This would have certainly blown out my miters on the lid had that gap not been there….and since I did not go the whole .13, who knows how much pressure was already bound up in there….the keys held I guess…..

Oh, and I just noticed that there are strips on your side panels on top and bottom, are those ripped and reglued for an effect?

JC

-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

That’s a valid question, JC. I’ve always assumed expansion in small projects wasn’t a big issue down here where the relative humidity remains high year round, even though your experience with that sapele top seems to indicate otherwise (you’re in South Fl;orida, right?). I’ve made numerous projects over the last several years that violate the conventional wisdom of leaving room for expansion, and I have had zero problems of any kind. Of course I do allow for movement on larger things like table tops.

As to the “strips” you noticed, that’s just the end and edge grain of the panels. The top and bottom of the box were simply glued on to the body and trimmed flush. (Another expansion no-no, I guess.)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

CharlieM1958,
Well you’ve done it again! Another good looking box with such square corners. When are you gonna build me a box with four round corners to ooogle and aaaahhhhhogle at? The first five pics’ look great-but that 6th pic looks like you left a mirror on top for the camera. You need to get those mirrors out of the way! Just kiddin’ and you know it I hope? Really nice job on the finishing! Congratulations.

Sincerely,
Ken McGinnis

-- woodbutcher north carolina

Very nice Charlie! I especially like the book matched top.

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17) †

Charlie, those are beautiful flowers, and the box ain’t bad either.

Yesterday, I sold one very similar to your design. It opened length-wise like yours. The difference was the size. Mine was designed to hold CDs on someones desk. Your design would look great on someones desk also.

-- Odie, Confucius say, "He who laughs at one's self is BUTT of joke". http://woodstermangotwood.blogspot.com/ (my funny blog)

Yes, I’m down near Ft. Lauderdale….Hey, if you aren’t having problems, no worries! Just curious if you were experiencing the same things. Maybe modern glues are able to contain the pressure on small pieces like these….

It’d be interesting to get some numbers on actual expansion vs. damage on items….maybe I’ll start a thread to gather some anecdotal experience….

JC

-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

stunning, I love the corners, and the finish is spectacular.

I have had limited success with poly finishes rubbing out to a high gloss. what brand did you use?

Matt, thanks! I used Minwax Polycrylic.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

That’s one really nice box Charlie. I’m constantly impressed that you’re always trying something new and learning more aspects of the craft.

-- When you give someone a chance it may well be their last.

After I use steel wool on a finished surface, I cover a rare earth magnet with a cloth and run it lightly over the entire surface. This picks up any of those steel wool fuzzies that lurk in the corners or under an edge.

Jim

Nice tip, Jim. Thanks!

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Another great box Charlie! I love the bookmatched top and inlaid corners. The sheen on the finish is perfect. I will definitely try that in the future. Thanks for sharing!

-- Brad, Oregon- Wood, it's what's for dinner.

An amazing box and your efforts in giving it such a fine finishing.
Sharad

-- patanjali

You really out did yourself with the finish.
It really makes the box pop.

-- ''Carry on my wayward son''

looks good…this has been sitting in my e-mail for a couple days…well i week…but didnt delete it since i knew it would be good…

-- Matt, Napa, CA...fun is beautiful...just trying to have some fun...

That’s a thing of beauty!!

-- Matt, Houston Texas

Great work Mr Charlie

-- POPSHOP ,