Fundraiser Box

very nice

-- Joe, Ga

Beautiful! Wood, design, craftsmanship and story.

-- mtnwild (Jack), It's not what you see, it's how you see it.

hi Martin
This is one beautiful Box love the inlay

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

They “stole it” for $250.00 ! This is a remarkable box with all of your wood choices , design , and inlays : )

-- You know you're getting old when you know the difference between you're (you are) and your (belonging to you) AND how to use them in a sentence .

Wow, another beautiful box Martin….......... I love the wood combination and the “perfection” in the inlay is awsome…......... One of these days I am going to get brave and try an inlay.

What books would you recommend to learn the details of how to inlay?

Thanks for posting

-- Gene, Majestic Eagle Woodworks, http://majesticeagleww.etsy.com/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/majesticeagle/

Great looking box. The inlay is really nice!

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I’ve donated items to charitable auctions before and sold other items. I can tell you that donating gives you a totally different sense of accomplishment. Selling items is not bad either, but it does make you feel better when you see someone using something they bought from you.
I just started a subscription to Woodsmith, so I’m not familiar with this plan. Do you use sliding dovetails for the front and back to fit into the sides?

-- - In the end, everything will be okay. If it isn't okay, it isn't the end yet.

A VERY NICE box!

I like the free form sides, at the top… really cool!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

That is one fine piece of work! I love the combination of the woods.
The grain shows so well in each type.
Ellen

-- Ellen on Cape Cod

Really great box. Fantastic job on that logo inlay!

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Very nice inlay, care to share the issue of that Woodsmith Magazine. I’d like to make one of these

-- DocK, WV

Very nice. I too would like to know which back issue.

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

Great looking box!!! The logo looks perfect.

-- Dennis Zongker

That’s beautiful work.

-- Read my amazingly insightful blog at http://jn3Woodworks.blogspot.com/

Thanks to you all for the comments and encouragement. It means a lot coming from such great talent here at LJ.

Jeff: I used tongue and groove joinery rather than sliding dovetails to fit the base into the sides, back and front.

DocK16 & rwyoung: The plan is found in Woodsmith Vol. 29, No. 174. Here are a couple other of my variations if you’re interested: #2, #3

-- Martin, Kansas

Gorgeous box Martin. It should be a real money maker. Please give us an update after the auction. Thanks for sharing.

-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.

Martin,

I was wondering, how do you think it would be to have steel pins in back-corners of the top and going into the sides for the hinge instead of that fancy hinge of yours? (I’m kinda cheap, if you didn’t know :) )

That side pattern, with the handle-like curves… how did you do it? Cut the side out 8/4 on bandsaw?

Those boxes sure look BEAUTIFUL!

Thank you…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

Joe & Joe: thanks for the comments.

Joe (Landon), someone that works in the same office building as I do happened to be at the auction and told me he’d noticed the box and saw it at $200 but didn’t see the end of the auction. Later I rec’d a thank you card in the mail from the organizers saying it sold for $250.

Joe (Lyddon), It seems that steel or brass pins would work fine. I’ve not tried it, but perhaps I will sometime. The hinges I use are not that expensive, this is the latest source I use for hinges. The sides were done using router table, table saw, and belt sander. I hope this makes sense, but here goes… The upper small radius curve was done with a series of varying angled cuts on the table saw which created several “facets” approximating the final curve, this followed by smoothing on a belt sander. The lower portion was done in two phases. First a 1 inch diameter core box bit was used on my router table to get the small radius in the upper part of the lower segment. The a very “tall” angled cut was done on table saw set to match the cove cut at the router table. This essentially removed the bottom half of the cove previously cut. This table saw cut (because of the heigtht of the cut) seemed dangerous so I double taped each side to a thicker board when making the cut in order to have something to hold on to. These two processes just left some final smoothing (sanding) to match together to create the continuous appearance of the lower portion of the sides.

-- Martin, Kansas

Martin, Thank you very much… I was surprised to see the hinges to be so reasonable, have it bookmarked!

Again, very nice box… I think I’ll try it one day…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

Very nice, you do great inlay work.

-- Wood and Glass they kick (well you know) Have a great day - Dug

Inlay is indeed great!!!

-- ^_^ Zero education... zero experience... - that's me...^_^

Fabulous inlay! I love the contrast in the woods. Great craftsmanship and design. Beautiful!

-- Brad, Oregon- Wood, it's what's for dinner.

Great box; would have been just a tad better with a Jayhawk ;)

-- Freedom is the right of all sentient beings