|Project by Andy||posted 1754 days ago||2856 views||29 times favorited||14 comments|
We were having an anniversary party for my daughter and her husband last night and I decided at the last minute to make an additional gift.This is common for me.
The recent issue of WOOD magazine has a nice candle rack and thats where I got my inspiration. Its a good design and explained very well, but I just like to create something a little bit different. So, I decided to buy a single candle first and develop the size and design from that. I was aiming for a more elegent and lighter look.
The candles in their vases are about 3’’ wide, so I decided that three would work better than five.
This made the length about 12’’,the width about 5’’ and its about 3’’ tall.
The feet are Bloodwood and the rest is Maple, the finish is lacquer.
All of the shaping is done by eye on a drum sander.
I threw together a jig to align all the parts for glueing. Other than a dado for the bottom, there isnt any joinery to hold it all together. I didnt want to use fasteners and clamping was going to be a bear,so I decided to use super glue.I have been using gel type cyanoacrylate for years and knew it was a good choice for the project.
The jig was nothing more than some blocks and stops to position the legs and rail, one side at a time. I then placed a bead of CA on each piece and sprayed the mating part with the activator and firmly pressed the parts together, then flipped it over and repeated the process.
I started working on sketches at about 9:30 and had the last coat of finish on at 5:00.
It was well received :)
Super Glue notes for those who dont use it in the shop: The activator is nothing more than acetone in a spray,but it is easy to use and really makes assembly “Instant”.
Our cabinet shop and installers have been using this approach for years. Mostly on small moldings or tricky crowns where two hands or clamps arent possible.The parts are cut and assembled on the bench and pinned in place.This keeps miter joints from squirming open.
One drawback to CA is it doesnt take shock very well, but works great for holding until fasteners can be put in. Its great for display pieces.
I use it all the time to make quick cut off stops for my saws,or holding small parts for sanding.A chisel will pry the part off of a backer board without damaging anything.Or a sharp rap with a mallet will knock the part off if its larger.
Its perfect for assembling the wheels on wooden cars.The gel has a longer open time,enough to position all the axels where you want them and then a quick blast with the activator locks them all into place.
Care must be taken not to get it on surfaces that will be stained, it goes into open pores and stain wont be absorbed,leaving blotches. It takes deep sanding in some woods to get it all out.
The activator will cause some woods to bleed their color. Bloodwood will stain maple, so be careful or better yet use a little masking tape to protect the maple.
It also loves to glue skin, and thats why I prefer the gel because it doesnt creep out as much. I have learned to put tape on my finger tips when glueing small parts.
If you dont use it very often ,then put it in a zip lock bag and place in the refer.
Titebond has just recently came out with their version of the glue, offering it in 4 viscosities at about $10 per 2oz bottle. It should be available wherever you find Franklin products.
If you dont use this little helper in the shop yet, give it a try.
-- If I can do it, so can you. www.artboxesbyandy.com