Narrow Rip Jig for Festool Tracksaw

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Project by fiddlebanshee posted 07-26-2015 01:59 PM 11822 views 4 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I was having a hard time to get consistent width and parallel rip cuts from boards that were narrower than 6”, so I would have 5.5” boards to be ripped in 1.5” strips and I could not make the cuts consistently with my festool tracksaw. So I browsed the web, and not wanting to invest $300 in the Festool parallel system, and I found something that even I could make. Here is the original

I made some modifications (added a ruler) and in stead of the bent metal to keep the track in place that the original had, I put some 1” x 1/4” hex bolts and a wingnut to clamp it to the base. I also added a stop at the right side of the base so that the wood would have something to stop it from sliding when moving the saw. Since the track is bolted to the base, it may not rest solidly on the wood, so there was a chance of movement.

It works perfectly, for the cost of about $15. The beauty of this system is that the track does not move and that the strip you’re cutting is underneath the track, so you basically just push the new length of wood to be cut under the track until it butts and rip away.

I also made some spacers from hard maple to accurately get the most common widths. Just put them in between the movable part and the back of the track and there you have it.

Fool proof, even for me. Although I should say, checking if your vac that’s hooked up the saw is maybe full to the extent of exploding helps with accuracy. Sawdust was accumulating under the track because the vac couldn’t hold anymore, this led to 1/32 to 1/16” deviations in width. Once it was sucking properly there was no problem with getting exact cuts.

Next thing I want to do is to make this more height adjustable so that it is not limited to 3/4” stock. The other thought that occurred to me was that you could also use threaded rods with 16 tpi to make this thing super accurate and easy to adjust. Still wrapping my head around how you might do that but I have some ideas to incorporate both the vertical and the horizontal adjustability.

Edited to fix the pictures.

-- As if I needed another hobby!

3 comments so far

View mafe's profile


11741 posts in 3292 days

#1 posted 07-26-2015 09:10 PM

Cool idea.
Best thoughts,

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View bigbuddha's profile


192 posts in 3422 days

#2 posted 05-17-2016 01:14 AM

This is so cool! I will try to make this, been having a tough time making repeatable narrow rips! And I ran into the same problem with the vacuum LOL.It was a beast to even remove the bag of solid chunk of wood dust haha.

-- helen

View pcox's profile


26 posts in 967 days

#3 posted 06-04-2016 08:15 PM

Very cool! I have been working on something like this. I was thinking more simply so I wonder if I am missing something. Below is my drawing. This is made of 1x material, which is more like 3/4” or 13/16” thick. The distance between the “fence” and the edge of the base is the same width as the TS55 cut rail. So I was thinking I could simply place spacers next to the fence and then butt the rail against the spacers and then place the material to be cut under the rail and butt it against the edge of the jig and then I will cut material the same thickness as the spacer. I was also thinking I may add a wood stop at the end of the jig so the material being cut did not move forward.

Any updates to your?

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