|Project by kiefer||posted 07-08-2015 09:16 PM||6386 views||81 times favorited||27 comments|
I just uploaded the video and here is the link
Here is the video link to version 1 of the sled
This sled is my new version of my cross cut sled that came to be because I got a different table saw and I am starting all over making new jigs etc.
One of the most important things I wanted accomplish with this sled design was to basically make it shop built as much as possible which I think I managed to do and very little was purchased in the way of hardware and recycled materials where used extensively like the LEXAN and the LED light along with the LIGHT MDF .The total cost of this project amounts to about $20.00 . The other thing I wanted is to reduce the weight of the sled as much as possible but retain the strength and this sled weighs just over half of what my original design did .
This sled is again a double bottom sled which gives me the ability to slide the top panels against the blade and create a zero clearance setup at any angle or blade width including a dado blade .
The back fence is adjustable by loosening the four nuts and using the adjusting mechanism at near the right end of the fence .This little mechanism is very simple and consist of a bolt with a groove that is held by a roll pin to the wooden block which gives me a zero backlash device ,this bolt attaches to a brass threaded insert in the fence and to adjust the fence it simply requires turning the bolt . the wooden block is attached to the sled base with CA glue. To square the fence to the blade I simply square the fence to the rip fence in the rough set up and tighten the nuts down which I follow with the five cut method and the result after three adjustments came to a on thousands error which is what I call perfect (pic 5)
The fence also has removable zero clearance inserts and I made a couple of dozen so I have one for every blade width and tilt angle ,the insert slides into the back fence dovetail opening and is very easy to install and remove .
The next new feature is a dust groove that allows the dust that may collect between the work piece and the fence to be pushed into the groove and not interfere with the work piece coming against the fence creating errors .
A safety shield made from LEXAN with a LED light can be installed easily into the shop made tracks and the light you see in pic 3 is a great aid when dark coloured material is cut or the light level is low .
The sliding upper panels are held in place once properly located by two wing bolts in the front fence which is a better location then on my previous sled .
I also addressed the issue of cutting through the safety blade guard on the back fence by adding a small out feed table to the saw and screwing two stop blocks into the mitre grooves to which the sled UHMW slides come in contact with and stop the sled preventing the blade cutting through the guard . The reason I installed two stop blocks is to exactly stop both sides of the sled to prevent jarring of the sled which could cause it to come out of square and require a readjustment ,just a little foresight .
I also made two stop blocks which you can view in the attached pictures .
The first is a retractable stop which has a retracting aluminum finger that simply slides upward when the work piece it slid against the fence and serves as a stop block when the work piece is slid against it sideways .( see pics further down where I cut three blocks and measured with a caliper and observed no difference in length on all three pieces .
The second version is a mitre stop which is held by the same bracket that attaches to the track on the back fence .
The stop can be slid up and down to adjust to the material thickness and the dowel glued to the face prevents the tip of the cut mitre to get damaged this is accomplished by letting the face of the mitre come into contact with the dowel and setting the height of the stop in such a position that the mitre tip does not contact the stop itself . (see pic4 below and look at the small gap between the stop and the mitre tip )
There are more attachments coming and I will post them as I make them .
I think this covers all the details of the sled so far but I am always happy to answer any questions you may have !
Thanks for taking a look .
The sled dual travel stop in the mitre groove so they can’t move .
The stop retracted finger upward
The stop in the down position finger drops by gravity.
The mitre stop notice the tip being away from the stop body and the face of the mitre only coming in contact with the dowel preventing damage to the mitre tip.
The blade tilted to 45DEG.and the sliding upper panels forming a zero clearance gap and also the fence insert for this blade tilt installed .
Three blocks cut to length using the stop and all three exactly 112mm long perfect .
The LED light attached to the safety shield and shining up the area for good visibility.
Using a very accurate drafting square for initial fence squaring .
Some pics of the simple no backlash adjusting mechanism .
Pics of the bottom and how the fence is attached with carriage bolts nut and fender washers and also the blade guard .notice the second hole from the left which is the size of the bolt and is the fulcrum point the other hole are oversize so the fence can rotate and brought into square using the adjustment mechanism .
A shot of the dust groove which allows dust to fall in and let the work piece come in contact with the fence without dust getting trapped between fence and work piece causing errors .
A couple views of the end stop with the aluminum finger .