Walnut and Spalted Oak Bombe Chest

That is stunning mate please do a blog on how to make this thank you very much for sharing

Andy

-- cut it saw it scrap it

Before I show how, I need to ask this question: Because this procedure can be somewhat tricky(and dangerous), what will be my liability if someone tries this and gets hurt? Up here in Canada, I am constantly hearing horror stories about people suing people…..

p.s. Am I to take it that you are from Australia? My daughter will be going there in a few weeks to teach skiing during her summer break (she is last year student at McGill University).

Before I show how, I need to ask this question: Because this procedure can be somewhat tricky(and dangerous), what will be my liability if someone tries this and gets hurt? Up here in Canada, I am constantly hearing horror stories about people suing people…..

p.s. Am I to take it that you are from Australia? My daughter will be going there in a few weeks to teach skiing during her summer break (she is last year student at McGill University).

Very good piece and I love the grain on the top panel… it makes the inside look cool in the open view.

Beautiful piece from beautiful wood.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

wow. very pretty wood! great work.

-- "What one can make with good tools is limited only by one's talent" (lucius-hill@comcast.net)

Use a disclaimer at the beginning and the end of the tutorial.
Your work is beautiful.

-- Vince

I like this one a lot. That spalted oak and walnut go well together.

-- A thing of beauty is a joy forever...

the spalted wood always looks great,thanks for posting

-- john, Moose Jaw, Sask, j.soika@shaw.ca

A beautiful box. Nice job.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

i’d be interested to know how you sculpted those sides.

hiya aaron

it is actually extremely simple, but very dangerous if not done with great precaution. with the “disclaimer” part over with, here goes:

a) make box carcass, using the 4 planks of desired wood with the four corners of different wood. b) on tablesaw, clamp two “rails” of wood, one on each side of the blade, at an angle. the angle you choose will dictate the width of the “groove”. the smaller the angle, the narrower the groove. the rails must be the exact width of the finished carcass, but must allow the carcass to be drawn smoothly through them. c) bring up your blade (approx 1/8” at a pass) and pull the first side of the carcass over it CAREFULLY. then repeat for three other sides. keep doing this until the desired depth is reached. d) sanding can be easily accomplished by wrapping a piece of sandpaper around a cylinder of styrofoam (which you can turn on a lathe to the exact size of your “channel”), so that no gouges or ridges are left on the surface. e) do not try this at the end of the day, when you are hungry, tired, or irritated about something. this can be VERY DANGEROUS. do not be in a hurry to see the results. TAKE YOUR TIME.

ok, now that i have finished with a closing disclaimer, the entire operation is actually, quite easy. i have found that a “channel” narrower than a couple of inches can better be made with a router. i have also found that doing this on a cheap saw is not the best of ideas, as the blade can “wobble”, and the results can easily be observed.
finally, when you choose the method of assembling your carcass, i have also experienced that (gggrrrrr….) it is very important to consider the humidity factor of the final “resting place” for the box, as, when the seasons change…., well, you know…

p.s. choose the grains carefully for the end blocks (as you would for a cabriolet leg), as this will have a most dramatic effect on the finished product. another real nice effect is putting in an extremely thin slice of an offsetting colored wood—ebony, for instance—between the planks and blocks as they will “follow the curve” of the end block, adding greatly to the “wow” factor.

lumberjacques

www.woodwideweb.ca

ah! so like cove molding! i am a bit scared to do this on my ts just yet – and there is some wobble which would make things nasty, as you say. great idea. you just use squared edges and the sculpting of the outside makes it look like you did some really fancy edge work on oak-walnut joinery (not to diminish the difficulty of nice miters)! impressive. i’ll have to remember this for when my skills and tools improve. thanks!