|Project by Karson||posted 1937 days ago||6153 views||62 times favorited||18 comments|
On Sat April 4, 2009 the Mason Dixon Woodworkers put on a sanding block class.
I first made these sanding blocks about 5 years ago. and they are posted here.
We are always looking for some nice workshops for the woodworking club and I suggested these.
I brought all of the wood, nuts, washers, bolts, sandpaper and cork backing. They brought their enthusiasm.
I cut up some Sapele, South Americian Mahogany, Maple, and Walnut. Some of the blanks were not thick enough so I laminated some with spalted maple on top of Walnut or SA Mahogany on top of Maple etc.
Here are the dimensions and the order that we did the work.
1: Cut bottom block to proper width and length using 5/8” stock the size is 5/8 X 4 1/2×2 1/4
2: Sand one side of the edge stock and cut to 4 1/2” long. 2 sides for each bottom size 1/4 X 3/4 X 4 1/2
3: Cut the top stock to 4 1/4” size is 1 1/4 X 2 1/8 X 4 1/4. The thickness can be less than the 1 1/4” size if needed I wouldn’t have it less than 7/8 or so.
4: Glue the sides on the bottom. 4 1/2” sides together. We used glue and micro pins to hold it while the glue dried and we could keep working.
5: Mark the center of the top block and drill a 1/4” hole all the way through.
6: Using the top block as a guide center the top block between the edges and ends of the bottom block and drill 1/4” hole through bottom block.
7: Drill a 5/8” forstner hole in the bottom of the bottom block in alignment with the previous drilled 1/4” hole. The hole is about 3/8” deep
8: Put a 1/4 – 1” carriage bolt in the recessed hole and pound down until seated in hole.
9: Fill hole with and carriage bolt head with Automobile body putty (Bondo).
10: Drill 1 1/8” and 1 3/8” holes in top of top block centering over the previously drilled 1/4” hole. The 1 1/8” hole should leave 3/8” of wood thickness in the bottom. The 1 3/8” hold should be 1/8” higher up. This is a stepped shoulder for the washer and wing nut in the hole.
11: Rout center hole with 1/4” round over bit to ease shoulders. Hand held veneer trim router. Holding block in vise.
12: Rout 1/2” round over on four top edges of the top block. Start the rout on the end first.
13: Sand all edges, corners and smooth body putty to be level with the bottom of the bottom block.
14: Put the two blocks together with fender washer and 1/4” wing nuts.
15: Trim cut bottom to be flush with the top block using a chop saw
16: Do final sanding
17: Put PSA 1/16” cork on bottom of bottom block. Finish if desired.
If making multiple of these blocks at the same time number them so that the top and bottoms can be matched up when assembling. Because of the way the center hole is drilled they are a matched set.
The blocks that were made were usually a mismatched assembly. Maybe maple for the bottom block with Sapele sides and SA Mahogany for the top.
The eight blocks that I have shown were made for the class. Three of them were partially completed and shown at the club meeting to show everyone what we were going to do.
I made one to show everyone all of the steps before anyone else started. I then made a couple while it was slow during the class.
The day previous when we set up the workshop Pat made three of them in 15 minutes. The wood blocks had been previously ripped to size.
In the class we had:
4 drill presses all set with the correct depth and the wood block was centered on a 1/4” dowell on a base allignment block so all holes were drilled in the correct place. the drills were 1/4, 5/8 Forstner, 1 1/8 Forstner, 1 3/8 Forstner.
2 table saws set up for ripping top blocks to 2 1/8 and bottom blocks to 2 1/4”.
1 band saw with a cutting sled to cut bottom and sides to 4 1/2”.
1 chop saw with stop block to cut tops to 4 1/4”
2 router tables with 1/2” roundover bit to round over top block.
1 Pony trim router with 1/4” roundover to roundover center holes in top block.
5 belt sanding machines to do finish sanding.
1 Pin Air gun and 1 air compresser. The pins were 3/4” long
The Bondo work was done outside to minimize the odor from it’s chemicals. They set up in about 15 minutes so work could get completed.
All tools with the exception of the drill presses and the trim router were hooked up the central vacuum system that is stored in the 2nd floor of the shop.
Some of the pictures.
DustyAl was there but I didn’t get a picture of him.
Jack is prowdly showing off his top block where he rounded off the bottom of the top block instead of the top. He called that a Karson – I don’t know why.
My blocks in preparation for spraying with a clear finish.
The blocks in order top left working across then down.
Spalted Maple with maple base and tiger Taple sides.
South American Mahogany with Maple base and SA Mahogany sides
SA Mahogany with SA Mahogany base and sides
Laminated Walnut and Maple top with Maple base and Walnut sides
Sapele top with Sapele Base and sides
Sapele top with SA Mahogany base and sides
Spalted Maple top with Maple base and Tiger Maple sides
Spalted Maple laminated with Walnut top and Maple with Tiger Maple sides
It’s interesting that all of the laminated stock went first, but the spalted wood didn’t go till later in the morning. It may have been that I had already cut them to size and they were in a plastic tote. I also had Tiger striped Sweet Gum laminated on Walnut and also some on Maple and I don’t know if any of them went.
I have enough wood left to make a bunch of Christmas Presents.
-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware email@example.com †