Chisel Restoration

Don’t you just love finding old tools?

makes sense that the worksharp would remove more from the outside edge. Your covering more linear length with each rotation.

-- Bob, Carver Massachusetts, Sawdust Maker http://www.capecodbaychallenge.org

Wayne -

Very nice chisel! I like the handle you made. Looks like I DO need a lathe! Thanks for the update on the Work Sharp.

-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com

Actually, the handle came from a box of old handles I keep on hand. I have been picking them up to use as templates for new handles. This one just matched perfectly.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

That restored very nice. I had an old Fuller chisel that I used the Mk.II to put an edge back on that worked very well. I’m interested to read your comments on the worksharp. I looked hard at one but couldn’t get one in Canada at the time I wanted a system. That’s why I went with the Mk.II.

And David, you DON’T have a lathe? Looks like I’ll have to do a video review of the Nova DVRXP to help you spend some money! LOL

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

Wayne -

Like you, I pick up chisels when I have the chance. Unlike you, I have restored and sharpened very few of them!

-- Paul, Texas

I’m not sure if you saw it Tom, but I did a full review of the Work Sharp in my blog a couple of days ago. These days blog entries scroll away so fast.

I think they are worth the effort Paul. It is always nice to have good tools. This one is marked the James Swan Company and has an engraved Swan on the blade. It is 1” wide and 16” long with the handle.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Nice restoration Wayne, I love old wood chisels. Or new ones for that matter. I just like working with them. jockmike

-- Mike. Profisher50@yahoo.com

That’s a good review in your blog. It just whizzed by so I missed it. If it gets past the first page of pulse, I’m boned as well. Thanks for pointing it out!

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

Great restoration.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

I did something like this to an old Framing Chisel. Sharp! Like yours here, it started out like it was ate up with metal termites! Wish I had thought about a “before” pic.

It looks like you can use it now.

-- Carpe Lignum - Seize The Wood,

Wayne.. I have a Worksharp also… I realized, you just have to wait till the left side of the tool is cleaned up for a square look.

A general note for all interested. Correct the math if I am wrong please. : All spinning tools develop more speed at the outside edges which is why larger drill and router bits need to be run at lower speeds. I think the Worksharp runs at around 580 RPM. A point 1/2” out from the center must travel aprox. 3” around the circle. While a point 2 1/2 inches out must travel aprox. 15” in diameter. It is going around 5 or more times faster on one edge of a 2” chisel if you had the chisel set as described. So users must be around 5 times more patiend to grind down the left.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

Agreed John. I belive your math is correct or very close. Although it is a pain in the a#$ to regrind a quality 1” chisel with 120 or so grit. To get the hollow grind out will take quite a while. I think I am going to buy the course abrasives set to get a lower grit abrasive for grinding the primary angle.

Have you purchased any of the other abrasive packs or have any recommendations relative to the work sharp?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I think the strength of the tool is the retouching, the Worksharp takes a long time to fix an already severly damaged tool.

I am going to try out some 80 grit or just sharpen the backs on my waterstone to start with. Have you tried the lower grit? Getting out the high and lowspots is the major pain. I mark the backs with a Sharpie so I can see how it is working. I am also thinking about getting another glass plate and loading it with two 80 grit papers so that I can grind the initial nasty chisels without flipping the plate back and forth.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

I’ve been using my grinder to fix real bad chisels. I was thinking of getting an extra plate and setting them up as 80/120, 400/1000, and 3600/6000 wheels. I have the leather wheel as well.

I just got it last week and only have the standard abrasives, so I have not tried the lower grit. I’m thinking I would use my waterstones for fine tuning, micro bevels and any cambering that may be needed.

Also, feel free to comment on the write-up of it I did in my blog.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

This just came up in the new front end and I thought I’d chime in. When I needed to flatten the back of an old chisel I clamped my belt sander in my workmate and used and 80 grit belt…..works great for the 1st touch.

-- Bob, Carver Massachusetts, Sawdust Maker http://www.capecodbaychallenge.org

Bob. That sounds like a real good approach.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Hi Wayne,
It looks from the photos like the secondary bevel was the main bevel that was somewhat out of square. Do you find that the “out of square” problem is mainly on secondary bevels? or on all bevels wider tools? Are you seeing it on plane blades also?

I’ve been contempating the WorkSharp…and this is the only real downside that I have been hearing.

Thanks
Matt

-- -- Matt Sanfilippo, Pittsburgh, Pa., www.intheworkshop.info

Sold me Wayne!

-- Carpe Lignum - Seize The Wood,

It is only appears to be on the secondary bevels. I have seen it on plane blades as well.

My current thinking is that I will flatten the back with it and grind primary bevels on the worksharp. Then hone secondary bevels with water stones.

Also there is a trick when flattening the back to rotate different parts of the blade towards the outside to get a consistant scratch pattern, otherwise it will remove more material on part of the back than the other.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Good restoration

-- Jiri

Looks like you brought that chisel back from the brink of extinction.

-- Maplewood, MN