The Scary Sharp LGS (Lazy Guys\Girls System) ..:)

I knew I saved that old sander for a reason!

-- http://www.grandprairiewoodworks.com http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=6453794

You sir, are a genius. I love your jigs, they’ve helped out greatly!

-- Let's make some firewood!

As long as the result are up to snuff that all that matter and you save some cash as well. Nice work LMS….Blkcherry

Careful! you are going to put TORMEK out of business. I too use the scary sharp system and would not go and spend hard earned cash on a motorised unit, but I do have one of those B&D that is not getting much action so, UHMMMM! I might give it a try. Thanks for the post>

-- All bleeding will eventually stop.

Yes.. I think everyone owns one of those relic sanders. GOD aweful color and not well designed.
I never used mine. I’ve kept it hidden so people wouldn’t see it.LOL
I knew though that someday… it could be used for something.

brilliant. I’m favoriting this one!

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso -- http://blanchardcreative.etsy.com -- http://snbcreative.wordpress.com/

David, you are always full of surprises. I love this one too.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

I like it a lot! Thanks for sharing a good idea!

map

-- measure once, cut once, swear, start over

I just added this to my favorites. I WILL be trying this out tomorrow seeing as I don’t have any work going on at the moment.:(

-- Julian, Park Forest, IL

I did put a new rubber pad on the unit and actually tore the whole sander apart and done a thorough cleaning before I started it. You’d be amazed how much crap is inside. I just figured it’ll never be used for sanding again like that .. so why not start with a spic and span unit. I also sprayed every part with WD40 the motor the windings , everything and let it all dry out before re-assembling it.

A terrific idea. Thanks for posting it!

-- Brian, Lebanon PA, If you aren’t having fun doing it, find something else to do.

and I thought I was lazy… lol – nice device there David.

one question though – I assume this is one of those sanders that vibrates left-right-front-back (got one dewalt that has not been used in a long time) – how does it affect the honing jig? as (the way I understand it) also causes the abrasives to vibrate against the honing jig itself – wouldn’t that rub it off?

when I use the honing jig with the ScarySharp Method, the motions is front-to-back which is the way the rollers on the jig are set to. but moving then side to side would abrade them off… maybe the ‘tool rest’ you’ve setup should have the honing-jig (angle setter) build into it, so that you don’t have that jig in contact with the abrasives? (unless I completely didn’t understand this setup… lol)

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

purplev, you have a point there. I think that some sort of toolrest jig that ran along the edge of the sander mounts would solve the problem

-- Julian, Park Forest, IL

That’s a pretty dang good idea you’d had there.. Anything else in the “Lazy man” category you want to share?? ;)

...8-0…

Hell. Yes.

~DB

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

That particular sander (Black & Decker) has an option switch for orbital or just front back. I set it for straight sanding (back & forth – front – back only).
If the sander that anyone else may be using does not have that option, then I will address that issue with a little platform toolrest (like Julian mentioned) and post it soon. Simple enough to do.
If someone else does this before I post it, you would want a very rigid , very thin plate for the honing jig to ride on. Metal would be the only option. Don’t use anything that would flex. Anyhow I’ll build what I have in mind and post it.
Thanks for bringing it up.
If anyone else can think of any other issues, please post them.. and we can collectivly resolve them I’m sure…:)

Oh and one other thing.. hmm how could I have forgotten this. The three letters “LMS” after
The Scary Sharp name.. well they are interchangeable to “LWS” also..LOL
Sorry I didn’t mention that straight up girls.

Good thinking, thanks for sharing.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

I’m a little slow but it finally came to me..LOL
“The Scary Sharp LGS” guys and girls..:)

this looks like a good idea, but I’m surprised that it doesn’t vibrate too much to get a good edge. I don’t own one of these sanders so its hard for me to really understand its operation, but if you are saying it works, its tough to argue. I’m glad you gave this a shot. I’ll have to look into it. thanks for a great idea.

Do you still strop the chisel/iron after you run it through the grits?

Also, I was thinking of one improvement for the jig: How about making the bottom of the base you built long enough for you to be able to clamp it to your workbench? That thing has to wiggle around quite a bit.

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

DannyBoy..
Your right it does wiggle around. I would recommend making the base plate bigger so that you could screw or clamp it down. I just dreamed this up, so it was a quick make to see if it was functional.
Now that I’m satified with the results I’m sure more improvements can now be made to it.
Any suggestions are more than welcome. PurpLev had a good one up above if your particular sander is orbital rather than back and forth. The Black & Decker model I used in this experiment had a setting for either or.
Back and forth is the preffered direction.

HokieMojo,
Don’t forget your holding this down on a glass plate. The vibration (movement) is back and forth. Very fast mind you, but much slower that a high speed grinding wheel that is commonly used.
It also offers a very stable angle to be maintained by using the platform tool rest.
This was an experiment on my part. I’ve now tried it and it works very well, at least in my opinion.
Give it a shot.. I don’t think you will be dissapointed.

i’ll definitiely look into this because the hand method takes me forever. I think you might just be a sharpening genius. Thanks again for the contribution.

Because I chose to use 4 grits and had 4 glass plates made, I’ve now adhered grits 1(440g) &2 (600g) and 3(800g) &4(1500g) to each side of the respective glass plates. That way it not only makes it easy to flip them over as you got through the steps but it also protects the glass plates when you store them.

Those wingnuts that you see holding the brass clips…Well what I did there was Silver Solder those onto threaded rod. I do this a lot so I don’t have to buy jig knobs (cheap me).
Even on thr Grip-N-Rip you’ll notice, I did this, but for those I had slot head bolts so I took some washers that fit into the slots and ground one edge flat, the inserted it into the slot and Siver Soldered those. Cheap but very functional.

I have just been looking at these Diamond Sharpening Stones:
They come in a set of three grits and are “FLAT” 6” x 2”: These could be awesome for this system.
They claim they will never wear out or lose their flatness, you just clean them once in a while
I’m gonna go buy some and try them out. The only modification would be if they work is to make a tray to hold them into the jig, because they are a little smaller than the sanding pad frame.

This is what is said about them:
Coarse: Excellent for sharpening tools such as plane irons, chisels, garden
shears, lawn mower blades etc.

Fine: Used to refine the cutting edge on router bits and great to hone carbide

Extra Fine: Used to polish fine cutting edges for precise sharpening

“These stones are perfect for giving your cutting and boring accessories an
extremely sharp edge.
No oil is required with these stones, only water. —> My Note:A LITTLE WATER WON”T HURT THIS JIG
Excellent for sharpening steel, carbide, titanium nitride bits and mills. “

I got them.. Now I just have to make the plate. I can lay two of them side by side and it will still work.
I’l put fine and extra fine together that to me seems great. Just move from one side to the other for the final finish.
It says on the ones I bought to use a lubricant I.E. mineral oil to enhance the sharpening performance.
Sounds good to me.

Well I’m here to tell you.!!! Those Diamond Sharpening Stones on this system are TRULY AMAZING!
It will blow you away how quickly you can get a razor sharp edge. Less than a minute.
I used a little oil is all and it blew me away. This thing WORKS!

no w I’ve definitiely got to give this a shot. If it is a way to avoid paying for new sandpaper and will speed up the process, it sounds great to me.

Dave, thanks for the awesome post!

I’ve been using the ScarySharp system for about a 2 months now…didn’t even realize it had a name until I joined LJ!

Basically I have just a 12×12 granite floor tile, wet/dry paper and spray on adhesive. I haven’t even got to the point of getting a honing jig as of yet.

Ever since reading your post, I’ve been bouncing a design idea in my head…sat down at SketchUp and here’s what I have so far:

I took into consideration PurpLev and Julian’s idea/concern regarding the orbital setting and a typical honing jig.

Granted this is just concept at this point, will be rounding up the rest of the components soon (knobs and T-track and cheap sander) to see if this will actually work.

• I’m envisioning mounting the sander to the bottom platform via bolts through the sanders case to insure a tight mount.
• Am thinking of adhering a standard hook and loop sanding disk to the bottom of the granite tile which would allow easy removal of the tile.
• The bottom platform just slides into the groves on the sides and front panel and is held in place with screws for easy removal if needed.
• The chisel/iron clamp pivots and slides horizontally on the 1/4” metal rod and slides forward and backward via the T-tracks.
• Will use my Wixey to setup and lock in the angle for honing.
• Tons of different options regarding layout of abrasives on the 12×12 area. Could conceptually get 4 different 6×6 grits on one tile.

Click here if you’re interested in downloading the SketchUp file.

Thanks again Dave!

These are some interesting ideas Guys. It’s looking great.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

Mike,
It looks like a good idea, but I think the weight of granite might be too much for the sander.

But give it a try. The granite should be setting on some springs.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

Hi Mike,
Looks like a great concept. I think that I might agree with Dick & Barb about the weight of the granite. GLASS is very cheap to have it cut. I used 1/4”. I guess it would really depend on the size of the sander?? I gave no thought to the type you are depicting but it could work?? I think that you would have a real problem holding the plate secure with that type of unit, but who knows? The sander I have shown could easily be modified to hold a bigger plate. It never hurts to experiment, that’s what innovation is all about.

1) As mentioned previous.. vibration is an issue with this system, you might consider rubber feet, one on each corner, also a rubber or combination rubber and carpet mat underneath to dampen the sound and vibration holding the actual sanding unit.. It should have a plate to enable securing the unit to your workbench or wherever as previously discussed.
2) Althought the sandpaper works fine, I really recommend your trying those diamond cutting plates.
With a plate as big as your showing you could use a combination of both.
3) Your honing JIG looks like a great design,with the T-Track it makes for easy positioning, allowing total use of the surface. You could just use slots rather than T-Track, this would allow you to easily slide the jig back and forth. I think you want that ability rather than locking it down.
4) I would suggest using a non-orbital sander although I’ve not tested mine in the orbital motion, that would not negate your honing jig, that’s a great idea.
5) If it were me, I would also make the honing jig table non-connected to the sanding unit itself.
Have it so it just simply sits over the secured sanding surface, BUT here again I like the concept of a single unit.
I’m really interested in what you come up with, this is great to network on design issues with everyone.
I’ll definitly download your drawing once we’ve worked out more possible modifications. Why not work out the total design using everyones input using Sketch-Up and then build it.
6) There is no question that the system works, using different sized plates, bigger than the actual surface of the sander may be a good idea. I’m not sure??
Thanks for posting this.. Let’s all put our heads together here and make the perfect design. An LJ Super Sharp System..:)

Another great jig and discussion to go with it. I’m going to see if I can find that old sander!

-- Chris

just found this post …to think i almost gave my old orbital away, it will now be ressurected thatnks

-- Gordon,Sydney ,Australia..Metal for money..Sawdust for love!

Great scary sharp jigs

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon