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Bandsaw Boxes 2006/2007

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Project by JonH posted 05-23-2007 10:06 PM 10651 views 0 times favorited 17 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Here are some pics of my students’ first attempt at bandsaw boxes. I just had them stack some 2×6’s together for an inexpensive project to try it out. I found out quickly that a good bandsaw blade is a must!

Anyone know a good way to check for proper tension on a 14” bandsaw? I’ve been doing the “pluck” method, but I always fight significant blade drift. Maybe my blades are just worn and need to be replaced?





17 comments so far

View Don's profile

Don

2600 posts in 2866 days


#1 posted 05-23-2007 10:11 PM

This may sound a little unconventional, John, but simply crank the tension up as tight as it will go. You won’t snap the blade and it will cut much better. I’ve been doing this for years with good results. Remember to loosen of the tension when not using the bandsaw.

Interesting projects – congratulate your students.

-- CanuckDon "I just love small wooden boxes!" http://www.dpb-photos.com/

View mot's profile

mot

4911 posts in 2726 days


#2 posted 05-23-2007 10:35 PM

I use Viking blades that are low tension. They suggest the “flutter” method. Turn on the saw and tension the blade until it stops flutter. Blade drift is caused by a couple of different things that I know aobut. Probably more than that, but it’s caused by either the blade not running on the centre of the wheel. If the blade is to the front of the wheel, the drift will tend to be away from the fence. If it’s towards the back of the wheel, it will tend to drift towards the fence.

Also, any blade that has been used to cut curves may have changed the set of the teeth and then will result in drift.

I setup a blade for making rips and resaws and never cut a curve with it. If I want to cut curves, I put in another blade. Once you cut the curve, you will always be fighting drift.

That is just my experience with my 14” saw.

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

View Morris Wallace's profile

Morris Wallace

17 posts in 3002 days


#3 posted 05-23-2007 10:47 PM

I was at the Tampa woodworking show and they were showing their bandsaw guides to saw a raindeer out of a piece of 2X4. It had no drift and they also have a deal that checks the tenision. It is a little pricey for the tensioner. The guide replaces the cool blocks or regular guides. Their website is www.woodline.com

-- Morris Wallace Seffner Fl. www.woodwork@tampabay.rr.com

View MsDebbieP's profile

MsDebbieP

18615 posts in 2850 days


#4 posted 05-23-2007 11:18 PM

what great boxes!!!

I can’t help with your question but I sure am benefiting from the discussion.

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (https://www.facebook.com/DebbiePribeleENJOConsultant)

View TonyWard's profile

TonyWard

748 posts in 3017 days


#5 posted 05-23-2007 11:36 PM

Well done those students.

You may find some useful information at Bandsaws and Blades information sites

-- Bandsawn Box Plans available at ~ http://www.tonyward.org

View oscorner's profile

oscorner

4564 posts in 3000 days


#6 posted 05-24-2007 12:49 AM

Neat boxes. Better than my first one, for sure.

-- Jesus is Lord!

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

8791 posts in 2789 days


#7 posted 05-24-2007 04:42 AM

I really found MOT’s comments interesting. I had never heard that before.

I used to have the Jet 14” with riser blocks and I upgraded to Carter bandsaw guides. SWEET guides. I used to flutter method and had great results. I sold that saw to my brother and bought a big 17” Grizzly. There is no comparison in the cut that I can produce with the Grizzly and that did not require any upgrades. It tracks so much straighter on it’s own, and the table is bigger which is much nicer.

Good blades and guides are worth the money, but you have to keep it tuned. Don’s right too, let off the tension when not in use.

Great student projects, great teaching. Great job!

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

View jockmike2's profile

jockmike2

10635 posts in 2936 days


#8 posted 05-24-2007 12:09 PM

Good job teach, espesially trying to get the correct info to pass on to your student. Wood magazine also has an online forum where you can get all kind of answers to questions like that and its free. www. woodmagazine.com. jockmike

-- (You just have to please the man in the Mirror) Mike from Michigan -

View crash's profile

crash

19 posts in 2709 days


#9 posted 05-24-2007 11:09 PM

hey Jon When are you going to post my table? by the way Jon is my teacher and the bandsaw box to the right is mine.

kyle

-- woodworker/student--- kylekastanek77@hotmail.com

View MsDebbieP's profile

MsDebbieP

18615 posts in 2850 days


#10 posted 05-24-2007 11:11 PM

Hi Crash—great job on that box!! Was it difficult? I have yet to try this process.

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (https://www.facebook.com/DebbiePribeleENJOConsultant)

View crash's profile

crash

19 posts in 2709 days


#11 posted 05-24-2007 11:16 PM

no it was a very easy project. i still need to put some kind of a handle on the boxes.

-- woodworker/student--- kylekastanek77@hotmail.com

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

8791 posts in 2789 days


#12 posted 05-25-2007 05:48 AM

Nice work Crash. Why don’t you post the table? I am anxious to see more of your work.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

View crash's profile

crash

19 posts in 2709 days


#13 posted 05-25-2007 05:59 PM

I posted my table but will post it again as soon as I get a camera. but I have a sketch of the table.

-- woodworker/student--- kylekastanek77@hotmail.com

View markrules's profile

markrules

146 posts in 2804 days


#14 posted 05-25-2007 06:38 PM

A few things about bands… Band saw blades will cut crooked because of a variety of things. Low tension, trying to feed the saw too fast, dull tooth face, incorrect tooth pitch, set damage, and on and on. When you cut with too small of a tooth (higher TPI), the teeth fill with debris before making it all the way to the other side of the wood, where the chips can fall out. If the saw is such that the tension isn’t high enough, there could be lots of reasons for that (bad bearings in the wheels, physical weakness in the saw body, incorrect blade size, worn tensioning screw, etc).

Set can be warped causing a blade to drift one way, but I’ve found that to be rare given the quality of most bands today.

View Karson's profile

Karson

34891 posts in 3090 days


#15 posted 05-25-2007 08:55 PM

Jon:

One of the causes of drift is whether or not the blade is sitting on top of the crown of your rubber tires. If it’s to the front or back, the blade is already at an angle to where it wants to cut.

Realign the tilt on the top wheel and see if that helps with your problem.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

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