Jig of Failures

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Project by MarkTheFiddler posted 04-06-2015 12:55 AM 1886 views 1 time favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch


I made a jig to cut a 20 degree bevel on the table saw. The concept is simple.The jig rides the fence as a sled and the work piece gets cut precisely where I want it.

Yeah so. Picture 2 shows a piece as it is supposed to sit.

Picture 3 shows my jig in the garbage.

Picture 4 shows why.

Alright, I’m joking about the garbage. I dismantled the jig instead. Picture 5 shows the behavior of a more rational person. ;)

Alrighty then. I could not cut a consistent bevel. It got thinner toward the end of the cut every time.
I needed clamps to hold the work to jig. I feared the clamps slipping off and into the blade.
Aside from that, the jig felt treacherous. I had to raise the unprotected blade up way too high. And my off cuts? They were like little cross-bow bolts.

Aside for doing a lousy job and feeling like it was a monster waiting to inflict great harm, I’m sure the jig just wanted to be useful. I mercilessly took it apart. It is my shortest lived project.

After I disassembled the beast, I chose to router a quarter round on the drawer and door fronts. I promptly routed the back side of a drawer front.

I put all my tools away and shook my head. Some days are just not meant to be.

I still want a 20 degree bevel on my drawer and door fronts. Any suggestions? I have time because, I have to start completely over on a couple of pieces. ;)

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

19 comments so far

View swirt's profile


2105 posts in 2389 days

#1 posted 04-06-2015 01:23 AM

The road to wisdom?—Well, it’s plain and simple to express: Err and err and err again, but less and less and less. — Piet Hein

Your next jig will be better ;)

-- Galootish log blog,

View GaryL's profile


1094 posts in 2247 days

#2 posted 04-06-2015 01:39 AM

How about keeping it simple and build a 90deg jig and bevel your blade 20deg. Clamp a pc of scrap to the back of your drawer face or panel to ride at the top of the jig. This keeps it from wanting to drop as the cut progresses.

And also put a zero clearance insert in your saw. This will reduce the chance of the cutoffs becoming missiles. Make your own. I know that you have the skills….... :^)

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

View MarkTheFiddler's profile


2053 posts in 1605 days

#3 posted 04-06-2015 01:43 AM

Gary!!!! You are so the man.

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

16763 posts in 2522 days

#4 posted 04-06-2015 01:58 AM

Good one, Gary!!

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View kiefer's profile


4873 posts in 2084 days

#5 posted 04-06-2015 02:09 AM

+1 what Gary said and the only thing I would add is
Looking at your saw it appears that it is right tilt so I would put the fence to the left of the blade to cut this .

-- Kiefer

View doubleDD's profile


5049 posts in 1460 days

#6 posted 04-06-2015 02:48 AM

You should of seen a sliding arc jig I made for the router a while back. It worked, I used it once for the project and took it apart. It was too dangerous to use. Sometimes we have to give them a little more thought.

-- Dave, Downers Grove, Il. -------- When you run out of ideas, start building your dreams.

View robscastle's profile


3286 posts in 1621 days

#7 posted 04-06-2015 07:10 AM


If you have a tenoning jig try this.

Its set at 90 deg and the saw blade at 5 deg,no reason why you could not tilt it another 15 degs.

Its not much different in principle to that of Marks suggestion.

-- Regards Robert

View NJBirdman's profile


35 posts in 1488 days

#8 posted 04-06-2015 02:30 PM

This made me laugh, pretty hard too. Thank you for posting a failure, there are so many talented people on this site it can be intimidating looking at all of these flawless pieces. I agree 100% with your statement, ‘Some days are just not meant to be’. Good luck building your new drawer front more importantly good luck with the 20 degree bevel! Happy woodworking!

-- --Denver-- Any society that will give up a little liberty for a little security will deserve neither and lose both.

View SirIrb's profile


1239 posts in 647 days

#9 posted 04-06-2015 02:50 PM

use threaded dowels in tapped wood holes. no metal.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View Todd Swartwood's profile

Todd Swartwood

257 posts in 1142 days

#10 posted 04-06-2015 03:54 PM

Mark, some days when nothing seem to be going as planned, it is a good idea to step back and take a break.
It can be a few minutes or the rest of the day. Normally a solution to the problem will come to you, if not
let us know here on LJ and some one will certainly try to help.
Most importantly if it does not feel safe to you, DON’T DO IT. What is safe for me to do may not be safe for you,
only you know. Next thing after you have had your break keep plugging ahead. try new methods with scrap first until you find something that will work for you. And don’t worry you will find something that works.
You can always drop by my shop and we will send it through the shaper with power feeder( fingers don’t have to be close at all).

Have a blessed day and a safe and fun day making dust, Todd

-- Todd Swartwood (Todd Swart-Woodworks)

View TheWoodenOyster's profile


1275 posts in 1352 days

#11 posted 04-06-2015 05:32 PM

I used the process Gary described above on a 7’ long board for a table edge. It worked like a champ, though I got a decent amount of burning, which planed off easily. It was not the safest I have ever felt while making a cut, but it got the job done.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View DocSavage45's profile


7645 posts in 2259 days

#12 posted 04-06-2015 07:15 PM

Murphy must have been in your shop as I had an uneventful day. I usually say “Step away from the project sir!” Clean up and walk away…if I am thinking.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View Grumpymike's profile


1882 posts in 1732 days

#13 posted 04-06-2015 09:12 PM

+1 for Gary … you are spot on pal … Zero Clearance Insert (ZCI) is a must here, buy one, make one or over lay the table with 1/4” hard board and raise the blade thru it … but ZCI is a must.

And after you use one you will never go back to the open throat.

-- Grumpy old guy, and lookin' good Doin' it. ... Surprise Az.

View MarkTheFiddler's profile


2053 posts in 1605 days

#14 posted 04-07-2015 12:12 AM

Howdy everyone, Thank you for the outstanding advice!

Gary, I keep looking at the jig. He cut it at an angle. The blade is at 90 degrees.
I believe the jig is just a stable auxiliary fence. I could wax it up and go.

Robert, I’m looking at that lid and I love it. Very nice job. I don’t have a tenoning jig. In your image, it’s all the parts I cant see that are making scratch my head.

I’m glad you all enjoyed the little story. It helps me get past wasting time and materials.
I will prevail!!!! Thanks for the faith!

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

View robscastle's profile


3286 posts in 1621 days

#15 posted 04-07-2015 12:45 AM

Hello again Mark

Its a lid off a small coffin, obviously…. the parts you cannot see if you are interested are at

As a Project:- Coffin Project, and

As a Blog:- Coffin Project Additional information
I made it in Mar 2011, also I then later I made the Twin Caskets but I used a different process.

Opps I just realised my previous post should have read “GaryL’s suggestion”

-- Regards Robert

showing 1 through 15 of 19 comments

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