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Thin Rip Jig with Feeler Gauges and Storage Box

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Project by CueballRosendaul posted 03-23-2015 04:23 PM 2682 views 14 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch

When I made my last project, the ultimate cutting board, it became apparent that I really needed a thin rip jig. I couldn’t see spending money on such a simple piece, so I hit the cutoff bin and pulled out a piece of walnut that had some discoloration and was too small for anything else. The only thing I needed to buy was the miter slot kit, which I picked up at the Rockler store. The miter slot fixture kit was cheap, but overall, that was an expensive visit to the store! I should say that the miter guide blocks had a little slop in the track but a few blows of the hammer on the ends was just enough to widen it and make it fit perfectly.

There were a few blemishes in the walnut on the face, so after I installed the wheel, I used the jig to rip a 1/8” strip of quilted maple to inlay into a few dado slots on the face. The roller bearing is a shower door bearing that I had on hand and it works perfectly because there’s no slack in the bearings and it has a captive nut on one side.

I never trust the ruler markings on things like these, so I opted for a set of feelers instead of a rule. After the jig was complete, I made a batch of feeler pieces from a thick piece of hard maple. Now that my woodworking has been elevated to the level of working in thousandths of an inch for some projects, the setup blocks and my dial caliper will keep me in good shape.

A nice looking and accurate jig like this deserves a nice storage box, so I mitered a box out of 1/2” white oak and used a piece of 3/4” oak veneer plywood for the bottom so I could cut a slot for the miter guide. When I put it in the box, I can stack the feelers up on the flat side and hold them in place by turning the knob to lock the jig in the slot. The lid is a piece of 1/4” birch veneer plywood that fit perfectly.

To use the jig, I can set the feeler blocks on the outside edge of the blade and bring the rip jig up so the wheel touches the feeler and snug the miter slot handle enough that it locks the jig in position, but not enough to secure it in the slot. Then I can simply run the jig down the slot to the bottom section and tighten it in the track.

I decided a while back that I was going to build any jigs and fixtures out of nice pieces of wood and finish them well since they are some of the only pieces I build that I get to enjoy myself. Seems like everything else I build ends up belonging to someone else! The finish is 5 coats of satin water based poly with quite a bit of steel wool and wax to make it satiny smooth like a finish you can’t keep your hands off. I really like the poly that I use most often, it’s actually hardwood floor poly which has some aluminum oxide in it and is VERY tough and durable. It’s Varathane and can be bought in quarts and gallons. I actually started using it when I had some leftover from doing our hardwood floors and now I’m hooked on it and buy quarts whenever I run low.

-- Matt CueBall Rosendaul. I don't think I've ever had a cup of coffee that didn't have cat hair or sawdust in it.





6 comments so far

View mikethetermite's profile

mikethetermite

567 posts in 2733 days


#1 posted 03-23-2015 05:12 PM

This is the most beautifully done Thin Rip Jig I’ve seen. Thanks for sharing.

-- Mike The Termite ~~~~~ Working safely may get old, but so do those who practice it.

View tyvekboy's profile

tyvekboy

1344 posts in 2480 days


#2 posted 03-23-2015 05:32 PM

Good looking Thing Rip Jig.

I’ve found another way to set the position of such jigs.

I lower the blade below the fence and move the fence so that the fence is even with the side of the blade from which I want to reference the roller (usually the left side of the blade). I then position the Thin Rip Jig roller somewhere between the front of the blade and the front of the saw. I then adjust offset from the face of the fence and the roller.

If you are using a sacrificial fence with a saw cut in it, you can then raise the blade so you can position the fence even with the left side of the blade. You can also just use a board as long as the fence that has a cutout to fit around a raised blade and use that to reference the left side of the blade.

Hope that helps in the setup of your thin rip jig.

Another thing you can use for the roller is a big router bit bearing that you have laying around.

Good post. Thanks for sharing.

-- Tyvekboy -- Marietta, GA ………….. one can never be too organized

View robert triplett's profile

robert triplett

1566 posts in 2572 days


#3 posted 03-24-2015 02:53 AM

Nice! Sure beats cutting between the fence and the blade, as I do now. i will have to pick out a piece of wood and make one of these. I might use a mag block and see if it works with a miter slot.

-- Robert, so much inspiration here, and now time to work!!!

View tyvekboy's profile

tyvekboy

1344 posts in 2480 days


#4 posted 03-24-2015 03:18 AM

Robert … that’s another good idea. I have a couple of those Magswitch feather boards and I like to use the magswitches in some of the jigs I have on my table saw. I just removed the screws from the plastic feather boards (cause they really don’t have to be screwed in to work) and can easily use them with something like this thin rip jig. If you have a metal table saw top you don’t necessarily have to use the miter slot … any where on the table will do.

-- Tyvekboy -- Marietta, GA ………….. one can never be too organized

View smitdog's profile

smitdog

229 posts in 1573 days


#5 posted 03-24-2015 01:09 PM

Wow is that ever a nice looking jig! Way to go Matt, I bet that finish just makes you want to stroke it and mutter “My Precious” over and over!

-- Jarrett - Mount Vernon, Ohio

View Roger's profile

Roger

19886 posts in 2271 days


#6 posted 03-28-2015 10:47 PM

A very nice addition to your woodworking arsenal.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

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