|Project by Gary Lundgren||posted 03-07-2015 07:28 PM||2656 views||7 times favorited||3 comments|
I made this bandsaw fence after having looked at some at the typical woodworking stores.
My bandsaw is a Porter*Cable 14”. It has the holes taped into the sides of the table already.
I measured the position of the holes. I use steel rulers or a folding rule as they are most accurate. Tape measures are too sloppy and only good for approximations. Measure twice. Get your orientation right. Mine came out spot on. I’ve done my share of missing the spots, and still do on occasion.
I made this for $7.43 in parts and scrap wood about the shop. The parts I bought was a length of aluminum angle 1/8 thick X 1” X 36”, and a package of 3/4” flat head screws.
I used a piece of scrap melamine board for the face of the fence as it provides a smooth slick surface, even faster when I wax it! Used a piece of MDF for base. I need to upgrade that to a hardwood such as poplar (good shop jig hardwood). I’d flatten that with a planer and be sure I get square. I cut a relief in the bottom edge of the face that only goes in about 1/2” to provide dust relief. You have to drill a convex in the bottom of the angle that attaches to bottom of fence to provide relief for the screw heads.
I cut a dado in the bottom of the fence end to accept the edge of the angle I’m attaching to it so it will be flat on the table. Attached it with 2 #10 3/4” FH screws. All the cuts were perfectly square (made test cuts) so the fence aligns perfectly with the miter slot. I don’t know how important square alignment is on a bandsaw as you are dealing with a flexible blade and that is where you will get your imprecision. Bandsaws are just not precision tools. They’re a tool to get you close and you use others to get to the precision you want.
Since I was not able to easily design a lock lever for the fence I use the magswitches 95 to hold the fence once I have it where I want it. They work great and it’s close enough for my needs. I suppose one could use a C-clamp vise grips or F clamp along the bar. Since I already had the magswitches, just continued with that.
From here, I may design some additions such as T-tracks, a piece for resawing, stop blocks, and whatever else may be useful with T-tracks.