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Need a switch

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Project by Sawdust2 posted 2018 days ago 2958 views 0 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Need a switch
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Last week the switch blew on my table saw.
I’m in need of a double pole single throw switch. Preferably a push button safety switch rated for 220V.

I found this one at Woodworkers Supply but it is back ordered til Feb 8 and I’d rather not wait that long if I can help it.

If one of you know where i can get something similar more quickly I’d appreciate it.

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.





13 comments so far

View lew's profile

lew

9956 posts in 2360 days


#1 posted 2018 days ago

I have seen a similar switch at Woodcraft.com and Rockler.com you might try there.

Had a similar problem with my lathe switch. My switch could be disassembled and I found one of the contacts had jumped out of the track. Put it back and it is working for now.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

885 posts in 2218 days


#2 posted 2018 days ago

Check out Grizzly.com.

Paddle switches

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Phred's profile

Phred

53 posts in 2326 days


#3 posted 2018 days ago

I know it’s in Canada.. but try www.busybeetools.com

I have bought two of these for my bandsaw and router table. work great :)

-- But honey.. this new power tool will pay for itself when we re-do the kitchen!

View tooldad's profile

tooldad

657 posts in 2320 days


#4 posted 2018 days ago

i have used 3 of the H8243’s in my shop. The only problem with them is that it is a deep switch. 2 of the 3 times I had to change from a single gang box to a double gang 2” deep box with a single plate to allow the wires to enter from sides rather than back.

Also ordered the 8241 at the same time for a router table. It is a magnetic switch. I don’t know if I got a dud, but it will operate only if the button is held on.

Good luck

View Sawdust2's profile

Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2692 days


#5 posted 2018 days ago

I’ve got the Grizzly catalog in my shop but it is never one of the first catalogs I go to.
Looks like the 8242 is what I need. Now if they just have it in stock.
Thanks, guys.

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

View John Stegall's profile

John Stegall

404 posts in 2121 days


#6 posted 2017 days ago

Lee, don’t overlook your local electrical supply houses or a local repair shop for power tools. The one near my school (repair shop) has it in stock.

-- jstegall

View Markt's profile

Markt

4 posts in 2019 days


#7 posted 2017 days ago

A big Red stop button is a great idea. I have seen them at Grizzly’s and as mentioned almost everyone has them. When I bought my Jointer I discovered that both the hot and neutral were switched. This is a violation and also a safty hazard. I re-wired it to leave the neutral always connected. If the neutral were to become disconnected the machine would be off but it would still be hot. And a possible shock hazard to anyone in the area.

Alot of these machines are assembled overseas and they don’t have the same rules governing wiring that we have here in the States. So it is a buyer beware type of deal.

View aldente's profile

aldente

175 posts in 2019 days


#8 posted 2017 days ago

sawdust lew is correct. I work at woodcraft and we do stock them. I know my store (in Fort Worth, Texas) has a couple in stock.

-- Rodd, Texas grandpa

View John Gray's profile

John Gray

2370 posts in 2490 days


#9 posted 2017 days ago

I don’t remember where I bought my big red paddle but I’m going to buy more.
I think I got it here: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=17401

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

View Sawdust2's profile

Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2692 days


#10 posted 2016 days ago

What I saw at Rockler and Woodcraft are units where the machine is plugged into a pigtail which is then plugged into the wall socket.

My saw is also 220V and the R and W units are for 110V.

My switch is direct wired from the motor so the plug in units offered at R and W (where I live and what I see in the catalogs) will not work.

I prefer to give my business to either R or W (both are w/in 15 miles of my house) and can be worked into my travels once or twice a month so it’s not a hassle to go there. Both have knowledgeable and friendly staff so it is fun to go there.

Thanks, all, for the suggestions.

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

View Sawdust2's profile

Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2692 days


#11 posted 2006 days ago

I got the 8242 in Saturday’s mail.

When I installed it the switch buzzed. I’d sort of figured that it was an electronic switch rather than a mechanical switch.

I was surprised because there was no resistance on the “ON” button.

I guess I got a bad switch because it still does not work.
There is power to the outlet and if I bypass the switch the saw runs.

Other than calling Grizzly (which I will do Monday) anyone have a suggestion>

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

View tooldad's profile

tooldad

657 posts in 2320 days


#12 posted 2006 days ago

I have had the same problem with my 8241. It is a magnetic switch. They don’t tell you that in the add. The tech support claimed it would still work. I even informed him that I was using it to replace a light switch on a router table to be safer for all users. He assured me it would work. I went and tried it, only would work when button was held on. Which from what I have been told and experienced, I need a mag starter to go with a mag switch. I don’t want that hassle. However their 8243 does work, and I have installed 3 of them in the school shop. They are just deep boxes. I have had to use a double wide metal box and put a single face on it. It mounts from the side using “Y” connectors, therefore the need for a wider box. For the money it is worth the hassle. Plus it is 110 or 220 volt. Good luck.

I am going to call tech support again tomorrow and ask for a refund or exchange now that I know another person has had the same problem.

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

885 posts in 2218 days


#13 posted 2006 days ago

Well, I’ll have to remember this! When I ordered my switch, all they had was the H8238 and H8243. I ordered 2 X H8238’s and have both of them working on machines. They work like normal latching ON/OFF switches.

I worked up a design for a magnetic switch and have been thinking about making one for my saw – anyone have a good source for low cost high current contactors?

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

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