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Bookcase

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Project by Viktor posted 01-16-2009 08:56 PM 2138 views 2 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Bookcase is made of solid yellow pine (except the back panel which is plywood). No glue or hardware is used in the assembly. I like things to be structurally sound with no unnecessary parts. All joints are sliding dovetails. Parts are interlocking such that the bookcase can be assembled only in a particular order. Back panel sits in a groove around entire perimeter. The only way to disassemble is to slide the back panel up ¼ in (the groove in the top has extra depth), this unlocks the lowest shelf and it can be removed. After this the back panel slides all the way down and out. Then goes the rest. There are extra grooves for the second shelf to be installed higher or lower. Entire construction came out very sturdy. I rubbed joints with candle wax for easy assembly. The finish is clear polyurethane. Measures 4ft high, 3ft wide 12in deep.





8 comments so far

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15706 posts in 2914 days


#1 posted 01-16-2009 09:20 PM

Nice construction.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View stanley_clifton's profile

stanley_clifton

187 posts in 2399 days


#2 posted 01-18-2009 11:13 PM

Simple design, nice looking, functional, ingenious and really well executed. Great stuff.

-- Stanley generally struggling

View AaronK's profile

AaronK

1398 posts in 2160 days


#3 posted 12-23-2010 08:54 PM

how did you make all the sliding dovetails – a router jig? if so i’d love to learn how – they go together very well.

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

895 posts in 2309 days


#4 posted 12-23-2010 08:58 PM

Nice clean job.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Viktor's profile

Viktor

448 posts in 2115 days


#5 posted 12-23-2010 09:33 PM

Aaron,
First, I cut grooves using straight edge clamped to the work piece. Then I made “tails” on a router table. I had second fence (just a straight block of wood) clamped parallel to router table fence. This helped to stabilize long pieces standing on the edge, and move them smoothly while holding 90 deg. to the table. I first cut test pieces of “tails” from scrap and kept adjusting the fences until tails fit nicely (but not too tight) into the grooves. This takes a lot of trials and errors (errors mostly).
The tails should not be too tight, because the boards are usually slightly cupped and there is a lot of friction over 12” long groove. i.e. your short test piece might fit nicely, but a long “tail” will develop a lot of friction. This could be a problem during assembly as you try to slide opposite ends of a shelf into two groves simultaneously. If the shelf gets skewed slightly it locks up and is very hard to remove and correct.

View AaronK's profile

AaronK

1398 posts in 2160 days


#6 posted 12-23-2010 10:45 PM

gotcha. thanks for the info. I’ll have to give this method a shot, since it’s a pretty solid joinery technique.

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

5129 posts in 1538 days


#7 posted 02-01-2012 05:04 PM

Interesting exploration in construction.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View Dave's profile

Dave

11186 posts in 1536 days


#8 posted 02-01-2012 05:25 PM

I agree with Doc. Nice method.

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com

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