|Project by LesB||posted 12-29-2008 08:26 PM||7205 views||30 times favorited||10 comments|
By popular request I am posting the plans for the child’s adjustable chair. The drawings were made primarily for my own use so I don’t guaranty they are error free. If you find a serious error let me know. I am submitting these plans for personal use only so do not use them for re sale as I do not know if the original design had been patented and you could get into trouble selling them on the open market. The info below would have been on a fourth page so i copied it here for you use. If anyone wants a printable PDF copy just give me an email address to send it to. That will give you a full size pattern of the hooks and metal plate. I noticed the materials list displays as a continuous sentence so I tried putting—-separators in
All wood should be hardwood. Oak, maple, mahogany, or walnut, for strength. 2 ea. 5/4” X 22” X 3 1/4” bases legs— 2 ea 3/4” X 35” X 3 1/2” vertical sides— 11 ea 5/8” dowel 13” +/——- 2 ea 3/4” dowel 13” base spreaders—- 4 ea 3/8” X 1” dowel pins—- 1 ea 3/4” X 13” X 3 1/2” upper spreader (back rest)—- 1 ea 3/4” X 13” X 2 1/2” lower spreader—- 2 ea 3/4” X 12 1/2” X 3 1/2” seat supports—- 1 ea 3/4” X 10 1/4” (+ -) X 10 1/2” seat—- 2 ea 1/8” aluminum for reinforcement plate (1 1/2” X 3 1/2”)—- 6 ea 1/2” #6 screws—- Urethane glue & or yellow carpenters glue 5/8” & 3/4 Forstner bit with drill press and band or saber saw are essential. Note: Dowels are not always true to size so check them against your drill bit size and adjust as necessary.
Obviously there are some areas in the drawing such as the top of the chair uprights, the front edge of the seat, and the foot pieces that can and should be rounded and curved removing any sharp corners and angles. It is illustrated this way because it is easier to draw. For most edges I used a 1/4” router bit to round edges. Be careful at junction of vertical sides and foot pieces, do no tround over, also at seat support and seat joints. The easiest way to make the open space under the foot section is to drill half round holes at each end with a Forstner bit to get a nice clean radius and then make the straight saw cut between them.
I used urethane glue (Groilla glue) because it is water proof; it expands to fill small voids and any excess that comes out of joints is easy to scrape away AFTER it dries. A THIN coat of glue on one part of the joint is all you need. If you have not used it before, experiment on some scrap pieces of wood. It does require some moderate clamping pressure while curing and dampening he joint with water helps the glue cure.
If biscuits are used to join seat to supports use yellow glue, urethane does not expand biscuits properly.
Shop around for the dowels. Some places carry 36” and some carry 48”. Get the 48” if you can, that way you get three rungs out of each piece with less waste.
-- Les B, Oregon