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CUSTOMER WHITE OAK REPLACEMENT DOOR
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#1 posted 12-25-2008 09:57 PM
You said that this was a replacement door. Was it a replica of an existing door or was it built to specs? I love the door. Maybe someday I’ll make one for my house and get rid of this steel “arts & crafts” door. Thanks for posting.
-- Gary D. Stoughton, WI
#2 posted 12-26-2008 12:20 AM
Hey GaryThis was a replica of the existing door. It takes time to gain the confidence to just go for it and know even when things go wrong it can be fixed . If you can make a cupboard and a bed you can make a door.happy woodworking and be careful out there.
18 posts in 2344 days
#3 posted 12-26-2008 02:57 PM
do you have more pictures to share? looks great from the one you supplied.
#4 posted 12-26-2008 06:37 PM
Hey JPI’m sorryI don’t have any more Photos . Keep on making those greet tables.
#5 posted 12-29-2008 02:35 AM
any words of wisdom to share on door building? I am going to be making a 4’ x 7’ door for my church. Thanks!Scott
2690 posts in 2745 days
#6 posted 12-29-2008 04:26 AM
Jim What Nice Door Is That stain glass
-- Jim, Kentucky
#7 posted 12-29-2008 04:38 AM
Hey JPLike all projects start with good material . Check the moister content. I would suggest 1/4 sawn wood . You will need some top notch ball bearing hinges . 4’ doors need some very good joinery If your using mortise an tenon joinery make sure your tenons are no smaller than a 1/3 of your thickness of your material and that you have the joints fit very well . I suggest 12/4 material. Even with good joinery 4’ doors tend to move or twist and can have problems even with well made joints can come apart . There are a couple of tricks I know of that can help eliminate warping and joint failure . The first is to take small sections 8”- 10”of wood for your rails and stiles and finger joint them together and drill or leave a space for 5/8 threaded rod to go through the middle of the top ,check and bottom rails all the way through both stiles having room for washers and nuts thet can be tightened. The final step is to veneer the whole outside of the door with 1/4” material to hide the finger jointed material and plugs for the threaded rods. Make sure that you don’t put threaded rods were door knobs or hinges will go. This will make a super strong door that will have very little movement. If this seems like to big of job you might suggest they buy a fiber glass door. As much as I love wood the newer fiber glass doors hold up much better than wood and they can be stained to look like any specious of wood your church would like. I know this type of construction for wood doors sounds crazy but I learned this technique from a sash and door man with 50 + years of experience ,My father-in law who built doors and windows all his life and even built all the doors and windows for toontown in disneyland. all of his doors over 3” were built this way. I hope this helps and is not to confusing the way I explained this process.
#8 posted 12-29-2008 04:40 AM
Hey JimThat was stained glass My customer had it made and I fit it to the door.
66 posts in 2233 days
#9 posted 04-14-2009 06:56 AM
nice door .
#10 posted 04-14-2009 07:41 AM
323 posts in 2200 days
#11 posted 02-18-2010 06:52 PM
Nice job Jim.I live in the desert outside of Palmdale/ Lancaster, Ca. and the summer sun is horrendous. My present front entry door is made from mahogany and is 42” wide. It is terribly weather beaten and it sags. So I need to build a new one soon. I am starting to alter my home towards the craftsman style and plan on making the new door out of 8/4 qswo. I plan on utilizing pegged through tennons () for the construction. I haven’t as of yet decided whether or not to go with a side light because as of this moment, I am constructing a built in cabinet next to one side of the door and that leaves only one side open for a side light. The entry is dark and needs some natural light. My wife wants me to build a Tansu step cabinet for the side opposite the cabinet that I am building but I haven’t capitulated as of yet. If I do, I will have to be content with just the glass pannels in the door.Anyway in case you are wondering, the () refers to John W. Nixon’s through tennons in his craftsman bed video over at Eagle Lake Woodworking.I have a few small projects to take care of before tackling the front door like my amalgamated version of a cradle, a teddy bear rocker, a bed step stool, a couple of toy chests and maybe a couple of wagons.
#12 posted 02-18-2010 06:55 PM
not sure where the bolding came from and there was supposed to be a * in the parenthetics
3201 posts in 1741 days
#13 posted 08-20-2010 09:54 PM
LOVE THIS DOOR. I wish I had the talent to build one it would look great in my house. I need a new front door- the one that was original to the house apparently left with the previous owner. :)
-- Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter? Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."
#14 posted 08-20-2010 11:08 PM
From what I see of your projects I think you could make a door with out any trouble at all Kelly
#15 posted 08-22-2010 10:57 PM
I don’t know about that one Jim, remember me, the woman with no table saw, no fancy tools.. BTW I saw a picture of your shop!!!! HOLY COW….. If you saw my work ‘space’ you would send me a new door out of pity… LOL
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