Throat plate for my R4512

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Project by brianb6603 posted 01-12-2015 05:31 AM 2266 views 9 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I have had my R4512 for about a year and am generally happy with it. I added a Biesemeyer fence at the beginning and a folding out feed table (see my other post about it). My son-in-law bought me a Wixey fence gage which is working out better than I hoped. For the money it is a very good saw.

However making a custom throat plate for this saw is a pain and buying a commercial one can be expensive. I did buy one for standard blades and it works as expected, but I use a dado set often and was not looking forward to spending another $27.00 for each dado width. In the meantime I have been using the original steel plate. this allows up to a 3/8” dado.

So I started thinking about how to go about making one myself. the saw throat opening has projections for the leveling screws but they are only 3/16” below the table surface. The leveling screws are designed to support a 1/8” steel plate. In order to use a 1/2” phenolic or plywood plate it is required that you make a clearance notch for each of these projections. This means you need 2 templates, one for the top to drill the leveling screw holes and layout the outside dimensions and a second one to lay out the projection cutouts. I used the commercial throat plate as a template. I hot glued 1/4” MDF to the bottom of the plate then used a top bearing pattern bit in my Router table to get the shape. I then adjusted the template cutouts 3/32” oversize so i could use a 1/4” straight bit and 7/32” guide bushing. This allows me to take some material away and then remove the template and reroute to final thickness (that why there is a step visible in photo 3). I also made a template to cut a recess for the rear anti lift tab. Now I have my templates made and I can make as many as I need.

The throat plates is made of Melamine covered plywood i had left over from my chop saw table. It is the cheaper kind made for concrete forms. Next time I will try to get the nicer baltic birch type.

Thanks for looking,

-- Brian Brown, Eugene, OR

5 comments so far

View SuperCubber's profile (online now)


832 posts in 1702 days

#1 posted 01-12-2015 05:44 AM

Nicely done!

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

View KE4NYV's profile


135 posts in 880 days

#2 posted 01-12-2015 07:11 PM

My biggest gripe with my R4512! I broke down and bought the Leecraft inserts. One for zero clearance and one for dado stacks. Recently, Ridgid started selling a metal dado insert. I picked one up off of Amazon and I like it a lot. mostly because it works with the magnets and holds tight to the table.

-- Jason R.

View bigJohninvegas's profile


181 posts in 880 days

#3 posted 01-13-2015 12:51 AM

Very nice. I to am using the lee craft plates. And while I am happy with them, at $25 a pop, they do get pricey.
I had tried and failed at using the metal ridgid plate as a template.
Thank you for the detailed post. I have some pre finished baltic birch ply that
I think it will work nicely.

-- John

View dustyal's profile


1275 posts in 2893 days

#4 posted 01-13-2015 02:23 AM

I have same issue with delta ts 36-725. No source for insert blanks. I just sketched out how to make a plate using your same two template method. Thanks for confirming I was on right track. Much appreciated.

-- Al H. - small shop, small projects...

View brianb6603's profile


8 posts in 1020 days

#5 posted 01-13-2015 06:31 AM

Thanks for the kind words. A couple other things that make the process easier. The 1/4” MDF I am using has a smooth white finish on one side. This makes using hot glue to stick the template to the workpiece less likely to cause surface damage. When you need to separate the template from the part just shoot a bit of denatured alcohol in the gap and the parts will pop apart (a trick I learned from some Corian assemblers I use to work with).

I also cleaned up the lower template with a Dremel tool with one of those 1/2” sanding disks. This allowed me to clean it up without taking too much off.

-- Brian Brown, Eugene, OR

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