| Project by rwyoung | posted 369 days ago | 1088 views | 0 times favorited | 6 comments | ![]() |
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In the course of building my bookcase, I needed a router table so that I could make the trim for the case. I decided to take a chance on an inexpensive 2HP router from eBay. Turns out to be pretty decent even if it is a cheep copy of a Mikita.
But it needed a table. So some 2×4 for the base and a lamination of 3/4 MDF and 1/4 hardboard and presto, a table. Now a little drilling of holes, some clamping of straight edge guides and a little carefull handheld routing later and I have a nice hole with lip cut for accepting a baseplate. Some more 1/4 hardboard, a little tablesawing and rasp work and I have an insert.
I waxed the whole thing so its nice and slick. I don’t leave the router hanging in the table since that could eventually flex the baseplate. But for the handfull of jobs I done with it, it is working great.
Added a speed controll box for the router and a nice tall (6”) fence with sliding face blocks so I could experiment with a vertical panel rasing bit. Also built a dust port on the back of the new fence (not pictured) so the shop vac would do a better job with chip collection. Eye, ear and lung protection still a must though.
Pictured is the simple fence I started with. Having a fixed pivot at one end works great and I made my new one work the same way. I just use an F-clamp on the other end and tighen the knob on the pivot bolt.
-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.





























6 comments so far
Chris Cunanan
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223 posts in 378 days
posted 369 days ago
is that just the 1/4” hardboard for the plate holding the router? Is that sufficient you think?
Julian
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695 posts in 423 days
posted 369 days ago
I’d be very weary of using 1/4 inch masonite for the plate.
-- Julian, Park Forest, IL
CharlieM1958
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7670 posts in 1116 days
posted 369 days ago
Nice and functional. Good job!
I have to agree with Chris and Julian, though. Before you spend too much time dressing this up, I’d invest in a decent baseplate. The rest of your setup will work just fine, but the plate needs to be really rigid, or eventually it’s going to mess up something you’re working on.
-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"
jwarner75
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251 posts in 372 days
posted 369 days ago
Pretty nice. I think min requirement for a Base plate is about 3/8”
I’ve been looking into building me one also, but haven’t got around to it cause my 10” Craftsman Table Saw has a Router Table Attachment, so I just use that for the time being to Route my stuff out and if I need the fence I can use the Saw’s fence.
I also use it as my Jointer since I don’t have the money to buy one, Although I can only Joint up to 3/4” Kind of sucks. But I don’t work with anything bigger then 3/4” Anyway, just yet, Most of my Stuff is on the Scroll Saw til Winter is over. Then the Kitchen Project is going to be tackled. i’m rebuilding my kitchen for Handicapped Accessible.
Handi
-- Jimmy "Handi" Warner, http://jwarner75.etsy.com, http://handisworkshop.blogspot.com
rwyoung
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167 posts in 369 days
posted 369 days ago
You would be suprised at how ridgid the 1/4 hardboard is. It is on the order of phenolic for short runs. While I wouldn’t expect it to support my weight, but it will support the 3 lbs of the router. The lip in the table is about 1/2” wide leaving enough room to use some #6 or #8 flat head screws as plate levelers should they be needed.
The router doesn’t “live” in the table, it lives out of the table. This minimizes the strain on the plate. And longer baseplate screws. Furthermore the plate itself is just large enough so the body of the router can drop through the hole with the 1/2” clearence it needs to catch the lip. The upshot of this is that there is very little unsupported hardboard.
That does make popping the router out for changes a bit annoying though.
The table itself is 3/4” MDF with a layer of hardboard over it. On the underside is a “web” of 2×4.
And the upshot of all this is, the whole operation will be replaced over time. This is really just a temporary table setting on sawhorses. If for no other reason I will get around to replacing the whole works in the next year because it is too low to the ground for my comfort. And I’ll probably replace this router with something like a 1617EVS or maybe a bit larger, especially one with above the table height adjustment. When all that happens I plan to get an aluminum or steel plate with insert rings etc. Keep the fixed base attached and a plunge base handy.
-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.
tmiller
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90 posts in 210 days
posted 210 days ago
I built my 4th router table last month. First 3 were trials (AKA I had no real idea of what I was doing). I love the fence idea of anchoring one end and allowing the other side to be clamped. I am going to add that to my table.
-- All trees have projects inside of them, it is your job to get them out.