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Project by Danette Smith posted 11-21-2008 07:47 PM 1902 views 1 time favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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Hi Everyone!

I’m starting to make music boxes. I’m a novice at this so I’m just trying to do the best I can.

I’m having problems with the top and bottom pieces on the edges. There are always two edges that are rough and show saw blade marks. I’m cutting on a 45 degree angle using a table saw. I don’t have a band saw but I do also have a table jig saw.

What can I do to prevent these marks on the wood? I’ll post a pic of it in my projects. Thank you! Danette

-- Danette Smiths Pyrography and Easels -

11 comments so far

View Russel's profile


2199 posts in 3967 days

#1 posted 11-21-2008 08:06 PM

Sand, sand, sand. I’m assuming you’re referring to the endgrain, and the only way I know of to make them as smooth as the long grain is to sand. I start with 100 grit, then 150 grit and finally 220. It’s a bit tedious, but I like the results.

-- Working at Woodworking

View John Stegall's profile

John Stegall

507 posts in 3544 days

#2 posted 11-21-2008 08:10 PM

Dull blades and excess wobble in the blade are two things that can cause this. They actually make a disk that goes beside your blade that can correct the wobble problem somehwhat. Using a blade with more teeth will also usually result in an improved cut.

In addition to sanding, you can try a cabinet scraper to clean up saw marks, although it is tough to use one on end grain, but it works well on the sides.

-- jstegall

View Steelmum's profile


355 posts in 3990 days

#3 posted 11-21-2008 09:51 PM

I agree with them. Sand, then when you are sure you are done, sand some more. A good table saw blade will also improve your cuts. I use a decent saw blade, cut off jig, feather boards, everything else I can think of, and I still have to sand off saw marks. I am trying to learn to enjoy sanding…..maybe I will learn to like it, you never know, could happen. :)

-- Berta in NC

View EEngineer's profile


1103 posts in 3641 days

#4 posted 11-21-2008 11:56 PM

Do you have a router? No matter how much work you do on your table saw, the router (with a good carbide bit) will leave a much smoother surface. As far as sand, sand, sand – the only way I have gotten a decent 45 sanding is to use a disk sander with a tilting table.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Built2Last's profile


234 posts in 3505 days

#5 posted 11-22-2008 05:41 AM

Check this out and it may help.
Instead of buying these disc you can buy them on ebay for about a buck fifty each in any grit or size. They work really great and will give you a finish like a hundred dollar Forrest blade at a fraction of the cost.

View EEngineer's profile


1103 posts in 3641 days

#6 posted 11-22-2008 08:03 PM

Not so fast…

Here's a review from July this year.

Unless they’ve made some changes, I wouldn’t use it!

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View stanley_clifton's profile


195 posts in 3731 days

#7 posted 11-22-2008 10:18 PM

As above, selecting a more precision saw blade may well help (I’m a band saw user myself, so what do I know). To remove the marks that you have, take a sharp and fine set block plane, seat it on the bevel and work it skew with a slight slicing action along the piece, which should take off these marks.

-- Stanley generally struggling

View Danette Smith's profile

Danette Smith

161 posts in 4307 days

#8 posted 11-23-2008 05:30 AM

Wow! Thanks everyone for all your comments, and help. I’ll be experimenting with your suggestions. This sure is a helpful group! thanks again…hugs…Danette

-- Danette Smiths Pyrography and Easels -

View ChicoWoodnut's profile


904 posts in 3843 days

#9 posted 11-23-2008 07:59 PM

I’m surprised nobody metioned hand planes. A nice number 4 or 3 or block plane and a shooting board makes a mighty fine finished edge. I think at least a nice low angle block plane would be a good investment for a box maker. Handy for cleaning up the exposed ends of box joints and such. The low angle is designed for end grain.

-- Scott - Chico California

View doyoulikegumwood's profile


384 posts in 4020 days

#10 posted 11-23-2008 11:27 PM

ive read your other posts on the problems youve had with this box and ill just tell you a few things for all the problems here to save time, im going to assume from all the posts that you dont have a shop full of tools. that being sied will work with what i know you do have. this is going to take some elbow grease sand that bottome as flush as poseble it dosnt look to warped from what i see what looks to be worng is the bottom of the box looks to be all out of wack check your table saw make shur it all nice and tru. if youve never dun this heres how to do a fast check take a ruler set your fence to saw 3” moving the blade buy hand pick one tooth on your blad and mesure from that tooth to the fence at the point of in feed them bye hand rotate the tooth to the rear and mesure tha exit point im think that your fence is out of allienment. also next time you cut 45s like those on the top and bottom ill assume your table tilts to the right cut the 45s on the left of the blade as to prevent pinching the piece between the blade and the fence i think this is where all the saw marks came from. the only other thing i can suggest is and investment in a good blade if you havent allready good luck and sorry for the long winded response.

happy woodworking

oh i forgot if you have to tru up your table the way to fix this gap is once you get it all trued up just run the box portion back thru it to clean up your bottom.

-- I buy tools so i can make more money,so ican buy more tools so I can work more, to make more money, so I can buy more tool, so I can work more

View oldnovice's profile


6901 posts in 3395 days

#11 posted 10-04-2012 10:56 PM

I agree with ChicoWoodnut, a plane and simple solution (pardon the pun). With a good jig you can also clean up the miter joints!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

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