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I was excited to make use of my new sled. The bandsaw had not yet arrived. A five inch square box from 4/4 scrap in red oak and walnut.

The body and splines are red oak.
The top, bottom and tray are from walnut.
I resawed the walnut on the table saw for the tray. I find I do not like to resaw on the table saw.

The feet are formed from dados cut in bottom starting near the center and widening on each pass. I move the fence away from the blade and rotate the piece 90 degrees between each of four passes.

The hinges are mortised only into the case, surface mounted to the top. Since I mounted them with the barrel centered on the back, then I had to cut some small relief mortises to accommodate the hinge leaf while opening.

Gallery

Comments

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Looks great! What did you find unpleasant about resawing on the tablesaw? The tablesaw would seem to take a larger kerf, but my 9" bandsaw wanders to much for me to attempt resawing.
 

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I tried to resaw on the table saw by cutting almost half way through from each side, then hand saw and plane until smooth. I had difficulty keeping the piece against the fence.

Then, I tried full cut resaw and did not like the blade so tall and that the technique would only work for a few inches of height.

Now that I have installed a 3/4" Wood Slicer (Highland Hardware) bandsaw blade on the 14-12 Laguna then resawing has become very easy. I was able to yield 0.308 (after planing off the blade marks) thick book matched boards from 3/4" stock and three 0.465 inch thick pieces from 8/4 (1.75) stock. I say try a bigger blade and use a fence.
 

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Nicely done box. First time I've seen splines this thick. They look good!

I re-saw on my Delta 10-inch table saw all the time, using a thin-kerf blade. With the blade perfectly perpendicular to the table, results are excellent when flipping wider boards up to about 5-inches or even a little wider. I also re-saw on the 14-inch bandsaw, and run the results through the thickness planer before using in projects. The table saw is faster.
 
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