|Project by tyvekboy||posted 12-17-2014 06:51 PM||20384 views||39 times favorited||31 comments|
Dec. 17, 2014 – 1:52 PM EST
A drill press mobile base is a necessity for a small shop like mine. I had one that I threw together but wasnʻt happy with so I decided to make a better one. This is what I came up with.
THE MOBILE BASE
First I started with 3/4 inch plywood base about the size recommended in the owners manual for stability. I then screwed 2 X 4ʻs around the perimeter. I located where the holes in the drill press base were and installed T-Nuts on the bottom of the plywood. The drill press base was then bolted to the plywood base.
Next the caster mounting plates and the caster assemblies were made. The casters use are total lock and swivel that are great to lock the drill press in place. Unlocked the drill press is easily moved. If you want more information on the caster mounts you can reference my previous post on Mobile Bases.
A piece of scrap 3/4 inch plywood and 3 of used gift cards (approximately 3/32 of an inch) were placed at each corner. (BTW, I use gift cards extensively in my shop for shims.)
The caster mounting plates were then screwed to the base even with the bottom. Then the caster assembly with a predrilled bolt hole was clamped to the mounting plates. The predrilled hole in the caster assembly was used as a guide to drill a matching hole in the caster mounting plate and the caster assembly was bolted in place. The 3/4 inch spacer and shims were then removed. The drill press now sits only 1-1/2 inch higher than if it sat directly on the floor.
The front casters were located on the side of the base to eliminate a tripping hazard.
I discovered that the top of the 2 X 4ʻs were even with the top of the drill press base so I added 1/4 inch piece of plywood over the tops of the 2 X 4ʻs with screws. This would eliminate dust and wood chips from collecting in this area. The front half of this 1/4 inch plywood cover can be removed if I needed access to the drill press base for some operation.
You can stop here and you have your drill press mobile base.
With the placement of the casters, this mobile base exceeds the recommended dimensions for a stabilizing drill press base. It rolls nicely and feels really sturdy. The locking swivel casters work well.
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Now that the mobile base was completed, I saw a place to store my 2-way drill press vise. I made a place to store it.
CABINETS FOR A DRILL PRESS
There are a lot of stuff that a drill press needs and a place to store them so they are readily available is key. Also a drill press table has to be able to move up and down. I also have to be able to store and remove my 2-way drill press vise stored on the mobile base. Keep reading to see how it was done.
I started by building some supports to hold the cabinet. They had to be high enough to clear the top of the 2-way vise but not too high as to limit the lowest position the drill press table can be moved.
I then added some plastic strips to allow the next parts to be easily moved. Keep reading and youʻll see why.
I next built some platforms upon which the cabinets would be mounted. These platforms consisted of two parts. Fixed/pivoting bottom and sliding top. Here is the fixed/pivoting bottom.
These platforms need to be able to swing out to give me access to the 2-way vise. Thatʻs why you see that arced slot in the forward section of the fixed/pivoting platform. The back corner pivots on a carriage bolt. You will also note half of a full extension drawer guide mounted to the insides of the fixed/pivoting platform.
The lag screw that secures the front of the platforms has a plastic sleeve to minimize wear on the wood slot.
This is how it fits in the arced slot.
I then made the top sliding platform to which the cabinets would be attached. The other half of the full extension drawer guide is attached to this part.
Here is what it does when the tops are extended out. I think you can see where this is going.
A cabinet with drawers to store stuff was the next thing to build. This is what the carcass looked like. Those little blue squares you see in the top opening are gift card shims to give the top drawer a better fit.
This is what it looks like with the drawer installed.
I wanted drawer pulls that didnʻt protrude to far beyond the drawer fronts so I made what I call recessed race track drawer pulls. I first laid out the pulls and drilled 7/8 inch holes at each end, cut out between the holes leaving about 1/16 in of wood and used my router table, table saw fence and spiral cut router bit to even the sides with the holes previously drilled. I worked with big pieces of wood so I would not get too close to the router bit.
A template that I would use with a pattern bit to make the recesses in the drawer fronts was made next.
The handles were cut apart on the band saw ….
… and carefully sanded and fitted into the template.
After cutting the recesses in the drawer fronts with a plunge router and the previously made template, the handles were glued in place. BTW, the upper part of each handle that is inside the drawer front has about 3/8 inch of wood removed to provide a finger grip. The handles are about 3/4 inch deep, 4 inches long and 1-1/4 inches wide. The handles protrude about 1/4 inch beyond the drawer fronts.
The finished cabinet was then mounted on the left platform top. I chose the left side to mount the cabinet because mounting it on the right side would have interfered with the drill press table crank handle.
THIS IS HOW IT WORKS
For a majority of my drill press work this table height will work with the cabinets tucked under the drill press table. Iʻll explain the small cabinet on the right platform later.
When I need access to the 2-way vise, all I have to do is rotate a turn button lock and swing the platforms away from each other. Note that there is more space behind the small cabinet on the right platform to locate another small cabinet. This is an evolving project.
If I have to lower the drill press table beyond the top of the cabinets all I have to do is slide the cabinets outward.
This is the lowest the drill press table can be lowered.
THE SMALL REVOLVING CABINET
You know you canʻt have too much storage. The smaller cabinet was made for other drill press accessories. It also rotates. Every surface is utilized to store something.
On one side of the cabinet I have my paddle bits stored.
On the back side I have some drill cases stored.
I still have one side to hang other stuff. Donʻt know whatʻs going here.
You can see that the drawers are already filled. The tray area on the top of the cabinet has a place for my oil cans and can hold small stuff that always collects when you are working at the drill press.
One coat of Danish Oil was use on all bare wood surfaces.
I hope you enjoyed looking at this complicated project. I think itʻs going to work.
Thanks for looking. Comments and favorites welcomed.
And again … Merry Christmas and Happy New Year ….
-- Tyvekboy -- Marietta, GA ………….. one can never be too organized