Box Joint Cutting Jig on Router Table

Thanks for the post. I need to do that,yours looks like a real good one. The big pictures are a big help.

-- I'm a lumberjock and I'm ok, I sleep all night and I work all day!

Good Job Woodworm.
It was smart of you to solve that thickness problem.
Thanks for sharing your experience.

-- Eric

I really like your idea but could you tell us about the “attachment” in picture 2?

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

Nice setup. On my list of things I would like to try. Tim

-- Tim from Iowa City, IA

Thanks Hairy, Woodwrecker, John Gray and Tim for viewing and comment.

To answer John Gray : The attachment with threaded bar is actually the “indexing pin” carrier.
There are 2 independent indexing pins (made from L bracket trimmed into approx. 3/16” wide). These pins are attached to two separate adjustable carriers, and they are overlap.
If I want to cut 1/4” finger/box joint for example, I move the carrier of the second indexing pin away from the first pin to make up both combined size : 1/4” wide. Then I lock both carriers using the 2 knobs. By loosing the wing nut at the centre, now I am able to move both carriers simultenously using the welded wing nut on the threaded bar to achive the desired distance (in this instance 1/4” from the edge of the router bit). Tighten the wing nut at the centre so both carriers are locked to the fence. Place the workpiece until it’s edge touchs the indexing pin and made the first cut. Place the first cut slot on top of the indexing pin, and make second cut.

To make the cut on mating workpiece, place the first finger of the first workpiece in between the indexing pin and the router bit. Place the 2nd workpiece to be cut where it edge touchs the edge of the first workpiece iand make first cut. Take out the first workpiece, make the second & subsequent cut follow as we do on the first workpiece.

I can use this jig to cut box joint of any size from 1/4” , 3/8” or 1/2” without changing the indexing pin (just adjust it to make desired size).

Thanks.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

Woodworm, Thanks for the post I too have been contemplating making something for my routertable as I have no dado blade for the saw. May have to look real close at yours.

Looks like it does a fine job.

CtL

-- Chris L. "Don't Dream it, Be it."

Thanks for viewing Chsis. For a clean cut and less noise, I use solid carbide bit – spiral down cut.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

Thanks for the update on the attachment!!!

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

A well designed and constructed jig Woodworm, it’s always nice to have a repertoire of jointing methods to choose.

-- I can so I wood but why are my learning curves always circles

This jig was built based on plan presented by Guido Henn in FW featured video and slides.
I’m still not happy with the jig I made because the 1/4” ply base is not very flat (not the furniture grade ply).

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

i love it !

-- POPSHOP ,