Ridgid JP06000 Jointer Restoration

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Project by Rayne posted 10-25-2014 03:16 AM 3107 views 4 times favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is my first restoration project of any kind. Before this, I have never heard of Evaporust, Rust-Free, Boeshield, and many others. I took a chance at buying this off of CL for $150 in hopes to learn more about the tool and see if I could really restore one. I’ll give credit to Evaporust for doing so much of the work for me; I’ve never see anything remove rust like that AND it’s safe for the sewers and hands. Amazing stuff. Anyways, As you can see, it was quite rusted in the before pic, and I do mean rusted as some parts were starting to get pitted, but not enough to affect its performance. I don’t think I saw any piece that wasn’t rusted, to give you an idea. I thought there would be logistic problems tearing apart the main cast iron, but I didn’t have a choice in the end and am glad I did as everything moves so much more smoothly now. Every screw, nuts, bolts, set screws, base, fence, yeah, everything was taken apart. cleaned, primed and painted where needed, and protected with Boeshield where needed. I’d appreciate any comments on this project. Thanks for looking.

Another view before the restore

Some parts after Evaporust

Blade Guard before repainting (priming and taping off to get 2 colors was a pain!)

Took ideas from Youtube on how to install bearings; this worked very well

Bearing installed on one side

Fence installed with belt cover

Another view of the completed restore

19 comments so far

View playingwithmywood's profile


246 posts in 1014 days

#1 posted 10-25-2014 03:45 AM

I totally recommend this upgrade for the belt

and I had the open base model I always wanted the closed base…

enjoy you jointer and good job

View timbertailor's profile


1591 posts in 842 days

#2 posted 10-25-2014 05:49 AM

I have this joiner. Should server you well.

Let us know how it goes when it comes time to line up the blades and congratulations on a job well done.

-- Brad, Texas,

View jakeprater's profile


91 posts in 1006 days

#3 posted 10-25-2014 12:54 PM

I also have this jointer, except that mine has a green base and trim, more like a Grizzly than a Ridgid! Great job, and should serve you well, I know mine has!
What is Boeshield? I’ve never heard of it, I put wax on all my exposed metal parts, is it similar?

-- All this sawdust.......wait........ what happened to my board???

View Rayne's profile


470 posts in 957 days

#4 posted 10-25-2014 01:21 PM

Thanks for the compliments.
I’ll have to look into that link belt after I get it on a sturdy mobile base. Right now, it’s running super smooth and I don’t have to wear any hearing protection. It’s about as loud as my Delta 36-725 table saw, which is very quiet.
The Boeshield (T-9) is based upon wax, but also acts as a lubricant. I’m not sure of the advantages of this over paste wax, but I was able to coat all the nuts, bolts, etc with it to protect it from rusting again, as well as put it on my fence and cast iron top to act as the paste wax; very smooth indeed.
As for the blades, they are in. I didn’t have a straightedge, so I took the straightest, flat, wide, thing I could find, which was 3/4” melamine. I first set the infeed table to 0, then raised the outfeed table to match using a straight (er) edge ruler (needs support to keep it in place). Once the outfeed table was set, I lowered the infeed, install the blades (spring loaded), and put the melamine block over the blade flat so I could tighten the screws on each end and then tighten the middle two. Then I tested it by spinning the cutterhead by hand on the melamine and it sits maybe 1/64 inch proud, which isn’t a too bad from what I’ve read (although I think most people wants it to be 1000th inch proud). If that’s too much of a tolerance, I’m open to other suggestions as I can’t find a cheap self suport straight edge anywhere.

View RibsBrisket4me's profile


1526 posts in 1923 days

#5 posted 10-25-2014 01:39 PM

You did a great job on the referb, and than jointer will work for you for a long time. Enjoy!

View jonsajerk's profile


34 posts in 1742 days

#6 posted 10-25-2014 03:31 PM

I just did one too!

View LJackson's profile


295 posts in 1011 days

#7 posted 10-25-2014 04:18 PM

Great work. I found one of these on Craigslist for $275. It doesn’t appear to have any rust on the tables, though. I’m not sure if it is worth that. Maybe I’ll offer $150 and see if he comes down.

Are knives easy to find for it?

Edit: Wait, I just noticed that the title of this post has the model number as JP06000, the one I see on craigslist is JP0600, clearly listed on the owner’s manual. Is this actually a different model, or just a typo?

View eddie's profile


8339 posts in 2031 days

#8 posted 10-25-2014 05:48 PM

awesome job on the restore

-- Jesus Is Alright with me

View Rayne's profile


470 posts in 957 days

#9 posted 10-25-2014 06:47 PM

LJackson, you know, when I was hunting down info on this jointer, that model number seem to come up as an alternate model for mine. Mine is clearly JP06000, with the extra 0, but I believe there’s another one out there as JP0600. Don’t ask me on what the difference; I had a hard enough time finding info on this one. LOL. It’s amazing how many people have this model and yet it’s nearly impossible to find information on it. I’ll give credit to Ridgid Tech support for helping me find the PDF manual for it as that’s the only thing that really helped me put this thing together and to know what part goes well in what order.

jonasjerk, great refurb on yours too! Did you also use the Rustoleum Orange color enamel? It looks like the same color I used on my blade guard.

View LJackson's profile


295 posts in 1011 days

#10 posted 10-26-2014 02:05 PM

I’m glad I asked. Being an engineer, I’m used to all digits being significant.

After all of that work on restoration, how well does it perform its primary function? It seems to me the best test is to run the face of two boards and see if butting them together produces a solid junction with no rocking or gaps, regardless of the orientation of either board to the other.

View jasonallen's profile


175 posts in 1038 days

#11 posted 10-27-2014 01:24 PM

Great job! I have a Rockwell jointer you can start on next. Just let me know when you’re ready…

-- Skill and confidence are an unconquered army.

View Rayne's profile


470 posts in 957 days

#12 posted 10-28-2014 01:07 AM

Just an update: I am getting snipe towards the end of every board, so the blades are indeed too high; I guess my method didn’t work as well as I had hoped. I saw a video using magnets and that seems a little more reliable, so I’ll make the jig tomorrow and see how that works.
For the part of the wood that IS flat, before the snipe there is no rocking, so I think that part is a success. It only rocks when I push on the sniped area.

View Mean_Dean's profile


4930 posts in 2565 days

#13 posted 10-29-2014 11:57 PM

Great work restoring this jointer! I’ll bet you get a lot of good use from it!

-- Dean

View jonsajerk's profile


34 posts in 1742 days

#14 posted 10-30-2014 01:21 AM

I ended up using a krylon orange that was at walmart. I know rustoleum is better just takes soooo long to dry. I think yours looks really sharp, I kind took a gamble painting the panel orange.

View Rayne's profile


470 posts in 957 days

#15 posted 10-30-2014 02:45 AM

I just built the magnet jig to set the blades, but it’s really too late to actually do it, so tomorrow it is. As for the Rustoleum, it only takes 30 minutes to dry and since the orange I used was Enamel, you can recoat anytime. The only time I had to wait was when I missed the 1 hour window to apply a second coat of primer; then I had to wait for the 48 hour timeframe; I’m sure that has to do with it “curing” versus being just wet enough to take on the 2nd coat. It worked out in the end, taking only 1 evening to finish off the painting once I organized the timing of all the pieces.

And thank you again for all the comments. :) I’m looking forward to getting great use out of it. I had to plane some boards already and am getting the snipe at the end, but for my purposes, it didn’t matter as long as it was “flat enough”. :)

showing 1 through 15 of 19 comments

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