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I had asked my wife if the budget could handle my taking a 7-day class to learn how to make bamboo fly rods ($3,500 for the class, plus lodging and meals) now that I am retired. She diplomatically suggested that it might be more challenging for me if I bought a 'How To' book and teach myself. I decided to make a practice rod that I would throw away after I had gone through each step of the process, and here is the result. Although this is the first completed rod, it is my second rod blank. The first had too many problems with it to more time and the cost of hardware. Since this turned out better than expected, I think I'll see how it fishes.

Most rods are made for Tonkin bamboo, but I made this from medake bamboo, since there is a bamboo nursery about 30 minutes from home. The reel seat spacer is from a walnut cut off from my scrap bin. The process took me about 10 weeks, since I needed to build all of the supporting jigs and forms (the binding form, plane forms, oven for "baking" the strips, cork handle press, etc). I'll post and describe these if anyone is interested.

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John,
Bamboo rods are a lovely thing to hold, use, and build. My compliments on your rod. I had the good fortune to spend some time with Ron Barch in Hastings MI (who publishes "The Planing Form" newsletter) a few years ago and have made a few rods. Those who think that graphite rods are the best available have never fished a really good bamboo rod. Besides, there's great satisfaction in having built a really nice bamboo rod. Because the six pieces that comprise the tip are planed down to around .031 or so, bamboo rods are sometimes referred to as the most precise form of woodworking. (quite possibly true) And that's not to mention they're a wonder to cast with.
Roger
 

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Very cool. Looks like a good project.

Roger's words aside, I'm not going to give up my graphite rods, but I like the effort. The funniest development in flyrods is the resurgence of fiberglass. Who would have thunk?
 

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Impressive work on this bamboo rod John. My son tried to get me interested in making them a few years ago, but after reading up on how to make one I lost interest because of the huge effort and very precise work required and I'm not a fan of fishing, but I certainly have respect for your completed rod. Great work and quite a challenge too.
 

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CharlesA: I'd never ask you to give up your Powells and Winstons. But, perhaps you might add a really nice bamboo to your arsenal? What could it hurt? :)
Roger
 

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Wow John looks great. I'd be very interested in knowing how you made the planing forms. I definitely can't afford to buy new ones.
 

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Looks beautiful to me, but my experience has sadly been limited to graphite-heck, guys, I'm just pleased to put my fly where I want it and catch a few trout. However, I'd love to know more about your construction process and jigs you made, including any recommendations for DIY research and reading. Thanks for a great post!
 

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its beautiful john, there is nothing better to me then feeling a well made bamboo rod in your hand, the second best thing is when that brookie hits your fly….
 

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Looks like a very fine effort. Like Mike, I don't have the patience. At least flies are quick little projects ;-)
 

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What a beautiful rod you have made here. Have you caught a fish on it yet? I hope you can find the time to post something about the build process. I made a bamboo fly rod some years ago using a prepared blank and it is a delight to fish with it. Well done.
Jim
 

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From an avid fisherman - nice work!
 

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Fly fishing and woodworking… could this conversation be any better?

I've made my own nets, my own 'graphite' rods, my own flies… but the bamboo rod, that would be neat! I bought one from a thrift store once, it was tucked away in a corner, I think I paid $15 for it. Certainly not up to the high standards of a well made rod, but I did take it to fish. And caught fish with it. Bamboo certainly had a different feel to it.

While I love the idea of making one, I am not sure I have the patience for that! But yours is stellar! Well done indeed!
 

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I'm interested, but would be just as happy to know what resources (books) you used to get the information. There are lots of materials out there, but it would be nice to start with a recommendation that has been vetted (and turned out a nice looking, functional rod).
 

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I bought 3 books all from Amazon:

"Handcrafting Bamboo Fly Rods" by Wayne Cattanach.
"Fundamentals of Building a Bamboo Fly-Rod" by George E. Maurer and Bernard P. Elser
"Constructing Cane Rods" by Ray Gould.

During the process, I found I used only the Cattanach and Maurer books, while the Gould book collected dust. I would read both regarding specific process I was ready to attack before attempting the process. At times they might contradict each other, so I attempted to visualize the end result and proceed with my best guess on how to achieve it.

I found I had to purchase three tools I did not have in the shop already. One was a pre-1982 Stanley block plane that had the brass adjustment wheel allowing for more precise adjusting. I found a used antique plane dealer on the internet. The time spent tuning and sharpening this plane was time well spent. The second tool was a 3-jaw chuck for my lathe that I purchased from Grizzly. The third tool was a heat gun I bought at Lowes. One tool I already had and relied heavily on was my digital caliper. That tool saved the day for me.

I'll try to find time tomorrow to take photos of the planing form I constructed and write some description of what and why I did something. The planing form I finally built was probably the most challenging of the tools I developed. I was not interested in spending $800 on a form that I did not know how many times it would be used. Same story with the binding machine that costs $300, while mine was made mostly from the scrap bin.

Hope this helps.
 

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Just the kind of comments I was hoping you could share. Thanks.
 

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Planing Form:

Although the books defined a form for each of the three planing processes I found that I only needed one. I used a 1"x4"x6' piece of oak that I bought at Lowes. I ripped it in half yielding two pieces roughly 1"x2". When placed together one side or edge would be used for the butt end and the other edge for the tip end. I cut the 30 degree groove for the butt end that was .089 inches deep, and the tip 30 degree groove was cut to .025 inches. These would be the smallest tappers I needed when the two pieces were screwed tightly together.
To handle the "push/pull" action of the form, I used several 1/4' screws and barrel nuts that would "push" the opposite piece outward. I used 1/2" by 1/4" screws and nuts in the opposite pieces so as to provide a hard surface for the "push" screws to hit against. The three "Pull" screws and barrel nuts pulled the two pieces together.

I cut several small triangles and marked each with the depth in inches for the tapper at 5 inch intervals to be used to roughly set the depth of the groove for a given rod weight. I say "roughly" because in practice, I continually measured the depth of the bamboo strip as I planed to insure accuracy and consistency.

I found I could use this one form for the first two planing processes if I used the butt side of the form and opened up the groove to provide space for the rough shaping of the strips.

I bolted the form to my small work platform for some extra height and less back pain.

I'm chuckling to myself that it was easier to build this than it is to describe how I did it. I trust the photos will add clarity to this.

Remember that this was/is a work in progress. If I were to make another, I would (a). Use 5 "Pull" screws instead of 3, and be more consistent in my spacing of the "push" screws. (b). I might also consider adding some aluminum sides to the form, level with the planing edges for the plan to rest on.
 

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The binder.


More detail of the binder.


Cork handle press for the gluing process.


My homemade oven. This is 2" stove pipe, inside a 4" pipe, inside a 6" pipe.


The tread dispenser

Here are some photos of the other forms and jigs I built for the project.

For Mike and Topamax: Trust me, I probably would not have started the project had I known the complexity and the precision required (Mother did not teach me patience), but I had to finish once I got started just to see what the finished rod would look like.

Would you believe I have 4 more rods in various of completion right now?
 

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John,
My compliments on your creativity in making the tools. I am amazed at your oak planing form. I followed the traditional approach (steel planing form, Garrison winder, Cavenaugh heat treating unit, Garrison dipping method) These all work fine, but, as you say, can be a bit demanding in the cost department. If your methods work well, then you have added something meaningful to the art of making fly rods, and made them accessible to more folks. And that's a good thing.

For those interested, the Everett Garrison book, written by Hoagy Carmichael, is a fine text as well. It may still be available used on Amazon. It's title is something like: "Masters Guide to Making Bamboo Fly Rods". There are also books out there on Paul Young rods and Lyle Dickerson rods. Helpful.

Might even motivate me to post one of my old rods. LOL

Roger
 

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Thanks for this great information.

Do you put a finish on the rods or leave them natural?
 
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