|Project by manuka||posted 10-16-2014 01:20 PM||6554 views||3 times favorited||5 comments|
A table saw stand sounded like a good beginner project where mistakes wouldn’t matter as much.
The saw is a GTS 10 XC, which I believe is the closest to the 4100 model found in the States.
The width and depth were chosen so that when the table is wheeled around, if it knocks into a wall, the wood should take the knock, rather than the aluminum parts. Although the saw sits a bit recessed from the stand’s edge, I can still put my hips into the table.
The height of 1040mm (41”) was chosen so that feeding would be comfortable in a range of scenarios: whether feeding a sheet of thin ply by hand, or a two-inch thick board using Grr-rippers (another 6 inches). I am about 6’2”.
The frame is Douglas Fir 3×2, the shelves are 18mm ply. At the bottom I practiced joining with trench cuts. The vertical ply is joined to the bottom shelf with pocket holes. Most of the other joints are just butt joints with some heavy bugle screws.
All four 4” casters are locking. At first I tried two locking, two non-locking and there was too much movement.
The table is attached on threaded rods through additional 3×2 supports under the ply, with small rubber strips as additional buffer between the plastic and the washer.
The “dust chute” is heavy insulation plastic taped with gorilla tape.
The Douglas and the ply are stained. After staining, on the top I experimented with waxing while on the bottom I experimented with Penetrol.
With so many screws, I sometimes found it challenging to choose a place to drill. I also made some mistakes with the pocket holes and found it challenging to get the inner walls perfectly vertical.
Altogether I am pleased with the result, although a part of me would have liked to introduce more left-to-right bracing.