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Contractor's 10" Table Saw DC Solution

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Project by timbertailor posted 10-12-2014 05:45 PM 4205 views 12 times favorited 30 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I recently upgraded my dust collection system and I am now going back and retrofitting all my power tools to accommodate the larger 4” dust ports. The router table was the first tool to go under the knife. I also did the radial arm saw.

My Delta Professional (36-650) contractor’s table saw has never had proper dust collection so this was a project long overdue.

The bottom is a drawer for my push sticks, inserts, and all sorts of wood jigs. I built a hanger for my EB-3 miter gauge. I can not tell you how happy I am to finally have a place to put it and not have it get in the way. I also found a spot for my aluminium straight\angle line jig.

This is a temporary fix until I move and install an Incra LS TS Fence System for better accuracy and a much wider rip capacity.

The bottom is built with a 3” torsion box using 1/2” Birch plywood to prevent sagging over time. The carcass is made from 3/4” Birch plywood. I am not going to miss tightening the eight bolts to the legs any more or the racking that followed, when they worked their way loose. It is now far more solid and the racking issue has disappeared. And, as with most of my projects, it contains no nails or screws. It was simply glued together and clamped. See my Woodpecker's aluminium box clamp review pictured in the third frame, if so inclined.

I painted it with some latex paint afterwards to reduce the affects of humidity.

Any suggestions on how to seal up the rear motor area are welcome. I am still scratching my head on the best way to seal this area up. (Updated pictures to show you what I came up with for the rear of the table saw.) I used magnets, as some of you had suggested, to hold in place. I wanted to keep the motor out of the saw dust so that is the principle behind its design.

Update: I can not believe how much more stable this platform is than the factory leg support. It is a night and day difference. I also am noticing how much cleaner the shop is staying and how little clean up I am having to perform.
I also thought the front looked kind of stark, so I thought I would dress it up a little with the mfg’s logo.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed





30 comments so far

View Buckeyes85's profile

Buckeyes85

108 posts in 1150 days


#1 posted 10-12-2014 08:00 PM

looks good. to seal the back motor area you might use magnetic sheets, assuming its metal.

View robscastle's profile

robscastle

3392 posts in 1666 days


#2 posted 10-12-2014 09:18 PM

Brad,

Looks like you have a good solution to the cronic design problem all machines which move and require dust extraction have.

Trying to get a perfect seal for the vacuum is almost impossible without interfering with the functionality of the saw characteristics.

As indicated by Buckeyes85 you can block the swing openings with removable panels.

Even the catchment tray at the bottom is very poor and requires sawdust to be removed manually after some time.

There is another leak culprit and that is the area under the table around the frame.
Have a look under the saw table and if its open around the cast iron webs of the table meet the saw frame, above the adjusting wheels you can block them up with EPE.

This is also the case for all cast top machines, jointer shaper and so on.

Just cut the EPE oversize and jamb it in, you can also use A/C metailsed tape to enclose everything.
If this is something you are interested in doing and want to see some pictures let me know.

In closing you may have also seen a bag which covers the motor drive belt and attaches to the frame of the saw, allowing you to still be able to tilt it.

I tried this method and after some time took the bag off as sawdust was accumulitating in the bag around the drive belt causing additional problems.

-- Regards Robert

View exelectrician's profile

exelectrician

2327 posts in 1889 days


#3 posted 10-12-2014 10:27 PM

You could try putting some form of broom bristle close to, but not touching the belt, to restrict the air coming in.
If you get anything to work be sure to show and tell!

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

1591 posts in 886 days


#4 posted 10-12-2014 10:31 PM

I was looking at the cracks under the table and was weighing my options. I will look into the EPE.

What do your think about taking some paint brushes and line each side of the belt area with some sheet metal with them. That way they can be swapped out between 45 degree and 90 degree settings. Using magnets, instead of screws, is a good idea!

I figured it would keep the belts clean, and provide some restriction.

I was also going to build a sliding window up front for the angle indicator area.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3020 posts in 1259 days


#5 posted 10-12-2014 10:34 PM

Given the amount of space an Incra face takes on the right side of the ts, how much will your rip capacity expand with it?

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

1591 posts in 886 days


#6 posted 10-12-2014 10:38 PM



Given the amount of space an Incra face takes on the right side of the ts, how much will your rip capacity expand with it?

- CharlesA

I am at 30”. The Incra will take me to 52” rip capacity.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3020 posts in 1259 days


#7 posted 10-12-2014 10:41 PM

So you’ll have to make about 6-7’ available to the right of the blade?

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

1591 posts in 886 days


#8 posted 10-12-2014 11:27 PM


So you ll have to make about 6-7 available to the right of the blade?

- CharlesA

The Incra LS Table Saw Fence is available in two sizes, 32” or 52”. The only difference between the two is the rail length, 72” or 92”. With the longer 92” rails, the 32” positioner can be operated from two different right hand positions to achieve ripping widths up to 52”. Each position has positive, physical stops eliminating the need for re-calibration. From the inside set of stops the range is 0-32”, from the outside stops, 20”-52”. The positioner can be flipped to the left side to improve control for certain mitering cuts on either size system.

So, by my math, it adds less than five feet to my existing table rail length with the fence set at it its widest rip capacity.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3020 posts in 1259 days


#9 posted 10-12-2014 11:31 PM

That’s about what I thought, an extra 5’. You clearly have a bigger shop than I do ;-)

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

1591 posts in 886 days


#10 posted 10-12-2014 11:33 PM

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

1591 posts in 886 days


#11 posted 10-12-2014 11:38 PM


That s about what I thought, an extra 5 . You clearly have a bigger shop than I do ;-)

- CharlesA

Not yet, but soon. That is why this project is a temporary solution until I move. I am so excited, I can barely contain myself. My dream shop is not too far from being a reality and why the LS has been on my wish list for so long. I have never had the space they consume either. So, I feel your pain.

I figure this project has such a generic design to it, I can use it later for an assembly or sanding table later.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View TheFridge's profile (online now)

TheFridge

5765 posts in 948 days


#12 posted 10-12-2014 11:46 PM

For the motor, can you box it in with wood or sheet metal?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View tyvekboy's profile

tyvekboy

1335 posts in 2475 days


#13 posted 10-12-2014 11:58 PM

Looks like a good solution. You didn’t show the inside of the box but if I were doing something like that, I would get some sheet metal and funnel it down towards the vacuum dust port. Just saying.

I once had an open frame saw like that and what I did was use some 1/4 inch plywood attached to the legs to close off that area and catch the dust.

-- Tyvekboy -- Marietta, GA ………….. one can never be too organized

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

1591 posts in 886 days


#14 posted 10-13-2014 12:03 AM



For the motor, can you box it in with wood or sheet metal?

- TheFridge

A sheet metal enclousre could be an option. It would be pretty big and expose the motor to more dust. The motor swings pretty far to the right and up when adjusted for a 45 degree angle.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5175 posts in 2656 days


#15 posted 10-13-2014 01:07 AM

Stellar job on the saw cabinet, Brad…..I have an old Craftsman contractor that I reburbed a few years ago…I removed the old spread-eagle legs, built a complete saw cabinet w/ drawers, a dust box to catch the chips and dust under the saw, and you just pull out the drawer to empty it….You can see it in my Blog under “A new look for an old workhorse”.....Years before that, I put a Delta Saw Guide, and outfeed tables on, and this cabinet topped it off…I have it backed up to my Delta X5 w/ a huge outfeed table betweeen them…perfect match….

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

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