|Project by Hammerthumb||posted 10-04-2014 04:21 PM||2340 views||5 times favorited||20 comments|
Here is the Bow Saw I made for Waho for the saw swap. Below is the letter I included with the saw:
Here is the bow saw I made for the saw swap. I have wanted to try one of these for quite a while, so this was the opportunity. I used a Gramercy kit and purchased 2 of them. The kit comes with 3 blades and the blade holding pins. The 3 blades should perform any task the saw would be used for. My first thought was to fabricate the pins myself, but after reading the literature on the Gramercy website, I decided that their pins would be much better than anything I could produce. The next objective was to choose the wood for the saw. My reading about this type of saw recommended a tough wood like Hickory as the wood will have a lot of stress during tensioning. It was also recommended to use something with straight grain. I had just finished a project using some Bubinga and had some left, so that is what I picked. The Gramercy kit comes with some shop drawings (which I have provided) with basic dimensions, so I roughed out the individual pieces. The end pieces and the crossbar are held together with mortise and tenon joints. The shoulders of the tenons and the mating mortises have a radiused surface that allows some movement as the saw is being tensioned. I have to tell you that the end pieces are interchangeable from front to back, but the pieces will fit best when assembled with the piece marked with an “H” in the front, and the one marked “T” at the handle end, and the indent for the toggle on the left side of the saw. I also made some little notches in the crossbar to help the toggle pass by the bar when tensioning. The indent is to position the toggle after tensioning and should keep it from moving while in use. I made the tensioning twine out of braided fishing line as recommended by Gramercy. If you ever need to replace the twine, it is easily found at any fishing store. Just make sure it is braided line and not mono-filament. It is 80lb test with 3 pieces that I braided together. Please be aware that the saw does not need very many twists of the toggle to get the proper tension, and the saw can easily be over-tensioned. I think over-tensioning would only hurt the blade pins, but be careful of this. Gramercy warned of this in their literature. The pins for the blade holder are made of bronze and are very durable. I had some 1/16” bronze plate from another project, so I decided to inlay some strips on the crossbar and toggle. I hope you have one of the bronze hand planes from LN to go with this! The finish I used is just a couple of coats of Danish oil which I sanded in with 400gt paper, and then a coat of dark wax. It should be easily repairable, and if it gets a little dull, just give it another coat of wax. I gave the saw a little test run and was surprised how much better it works than a standard coping saw. It is very easy to control and adjust mid cut for a different angle. I hope you like it and get lots of use out of it.
Your LJ friend,
-- Paul, Las Vegas