Project Information
Sept 14, 2014
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(( See addendum at end of post ))
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I was cruising the internet and came across 2 videos that got my attention. One was about a multi-use table saw fence from an article in Fine Woodworking #231. The other one was about an L-Fence from an article in Fine Woodworking #237.
After you look at this posting you may want to view these videos which will give you a good explanation of how it can be used.
I decided to combine the two ideas into one and this is the results of my efforts.
The heart of this jig is the base auxiliary fence. It is constructed to be a long as my fence (42 inches) with a tunnel that is about 1/8 wider and taller than my fence. Youʻll notice in the photo that the right side is shorter than the left side.
I added 4 brass flat head wood screws on the inside of the tunnel. These screws are adjusted so that the base auxiliary fence does not drag on the table saw top. This makes it easier to set up. If you donʻt do this you can always use my favorite shop shim … used gift cards … to space it off the table saw top before engaging the toggle clamps.
On the short side of the base auxiliary fence are 2 holes through which the hold-down clamps will secure this fence to the table saw fence. A tool-less operation.
This is the base auxiliary fence installed over the table saw fence and clamped in place.
On the tall side of the base auxiliary fence I have strategically place 6 T-nuts.
These T-nuts are used to attach a sacrificial fence to the base. This is the short sacrificial fence made from a piece of 3/4 inch melamine coated MDF. (A nice piece of plywood could be used in place of the melamine coated MDF) I made 3 of these so I have spares. You may also note that there are 2 smaller holes in the sacrificial fence near the top ….
… those small holes are for this L-Fence (the 2nd video) which I thought would come in handy for some operations and eliminate the need for sacrificial fences. Only time will tell.
Here is how the L-fence could be use. Say you need to make a short taper on a board like this. The L-Fence would be positioned so that it would be above the blade and the left side of the blade would be even with the edge of the L-Fence ….
… then with some double faced carpet tape a straight edge would be stuck to it. This straight edge would be guided by the L-Fence so the short tapered cut can be safely made. Make sure you use a push stick for this.
The edge of this L-fence could also be used to guide wood over a dado blade when cutting rabbets. No cutting into a sacrificial fence! This I thought was neat.
Now here is another use for this fence system. Cutting tenons safely.
Here is a taller auxiliary fence attached to the base auxiliary fence. It too is made out of a piece of melamine coated MDF.
The back side of the tall auxiliary fence has this piece of wood attached.
This next attachment I created is for cutting tenons. Notice how it hooks over and rides the taller auxiliary fence. No chance of it coming off the auxiliary fence.
This is a view of the other side of the sliding tenoning part of the jig.
Here is a picture of how it might be used. There is a vertical backup board (to eliminate tear out) and a clamp to safely hold the board being cut
You may be wondering why I have two identical ends on this tenoning attachment. The reason is that my saw has a right tilt blade and some cuts are safer done on the left side of the blade. Thatʻs the beauty of this base auxiliary fence. It can be attached to the table saw fence on either side as seen in the above photo.
Here is the jig set up to make an angle cut on the left side of the blade.
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ADDENDUM: After re-reading my own post it occurred to me that since I can switch the base auxiliary fence, this jig can also be used with my router table extension on my table saw to execute router operations previously impossible before this jig. Some operations that I can think of is sliding dovetail joints or even tenons.
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Now the only challenge I have is where am I going to store all these jig parts when Iʻm not using them? I had to make hangers that are attached to the ceiling/floor joists over head.
Thanks for taking the time to look at this posting. All comments and favorites are welcomed.
Safe sawing….and routering.
•
•
(( See addendum at end of post ))
•
•
I was cruising the internet and came across 2 videos that got my attention. One was about a multi-use table saw fence from an article in Fine Woodworking #231. The other one was about an L-Fence from an article in Fine Woodworking #237.
After you look at this posting you may want to view these videos which will give you a good explanation of how it can be used.
I decided to combine the two ideas into one and this is the results of my efforts.
The heart of this jig is the base auxiliary fence. It is constructed to be a long as my fence (42 inches) with a tunnel that is about 1/8 wider and taller than my fence. Youʻll notice in the photo that the right side is shorter than the left side.
I added 4 brass flat head wood screws on the inside of the tunnel. These screws are adjusted so that the base auxiliary fence does not drag on the table saw top. This makes it easier to set up. If you donʻt do this you can always use my favorite shop shim … used gift cards … to space it off the table saw top before engaging the toggle clamps.
On the short side of the base auxiliary fence are 2 holes through which the hold-down clamps will secure this fence to the table saw fence. A tool-less operation.
This is the base auxiliary fence installed over the table saw fence and clamped in place.
On the tall side of the base auxiliary fence I have strategically place 6 T-nuts.
These T-nuts are used to attach a sacrificial fence to the base. This is the short sacrificial fence made from a piece of 3/4 inch melamine coated MDF. (A nice piece of plywood could be used in place of the melamine coated MDF) I made 3 of these so I have spares. You may also note that there are 2 smaller holes in the sacrificial fence near the top ….
… those small holes are for this L-Fence (the 2nd video) which I thought would come in handy for some operations and eliminate the need for sacrificial fences. Only time will tell.
Here is how the L-fence could be use. Say you need to make a short taper on a board like this. The L-Fence would be positioned so that it would be above the blade and the left side of the blade would be even with the edge of the L-Fence ….
… then with some double faced carpet tape a straight edge would be stuck to it. This straight edge would be guided by the L-Fence so the short tapered cut can be safely made. Make sure you use a push stick for this.
The edge of this L-fence could also be used to guide wood over a dado blade when cutting rabbets. No cutting into a sacrificial fence! This I thought was neat.
Now here is another use for this fence system. Cutting tenons safely.
Here is a taller auxiliary fence attached to the base auxiliary fence. It too is made out of a piece of melamine coated MDF.
The back side of the tall auxiliary fence has this piece of wood attached.
This next attachment I created is for cutting tenons. Notice how it hooks over and rides the taller auxiliary fence. No chance of it coming off the auxiliary fence.
This is a view of the other side of the sliding tenoning part of the jig.
Here is a picture of how it might be used. There is a vertical backup board (to eliminate tear out) and a clamp to safely hold the board being cut
You may be wondering why I have two identical ends on this tenoning attachment. The reason is that my saw has a right tilt blade and some cuts are safer done on the left side of the blade. Thatʻs the beauty of this base auxiliary fence. It can be attached to the table saw fence on either side as seen in the above photo.
Here is the jig set up to make an angle cut on the left side of the blade.
•
•
•
ADDENDUM: After re-reading my own post it occurred to me that since I can switch the base auxiliary fence, this jig can also be used with my router table extension on my table saw to execute router operations previously impossible before this jig. Some operations that I can think of is sliding dovetail joints or even tenons.
•
•
•
Now the only challenge I have is where am I going to store all these jig parts when Iʻm not using them? I had to make hangers that are attached to the ceiling/floor joists over head.
Thanks for taking the time to look at this posting. All comments and favorites are welcomed.
Safe sawing….and routering.