Table Saw Sled * accurate on 3rd attempt*

big sled for such a small saw hope it works out fine for you.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

Thanks, Help me out here, is there any good size i should work to as i dont know what would be best size.
any tip would be great

cheers,

Ex Dundonian

Jaxx good scotsman that you are sorry I shouldn’t have been so negative but in reality we don’t have sleds here in the uk the preferrence is for sliding tables but as long as your sled works why worry it just looks a bit large to me but what di I know wait for some better advice.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

No worries, this is the sliding table i want but can’t find a supplier here http://www.jessem.com/mast_r_slide.htm

That is a nice table saw sled. I will attempt making my own. What is the “5 cut metheod to check for square”. do you have a web link for this? do you make these from plans?

-- Jimmy

Nice looking sled. Is that laminate or phenolic plywood?

5-Cut Method

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

Somehow there is a problem on the solution to the 5-Cut method that you linked to. Both the solutions for < 90 Deg and > 90 degrees are the same. I don’t believe that is true.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

What I do is a lot simpler. I’ve done the 5 cut method but mine is easier.

I take a piece of wood, preferable mdf because it cuts clean. Maybe 2’ square or so (Longer is better) but I like to have a at least 1’ cut on the board.

Do a trim crosscut on the end, keeping the board flat against your bottom fence. Call that lower side of the board A-top. I then cut about a 5” piece off the end. I take the cut-off and turn it over so that the A-top is on the bottom still against the fence (you flip it left to right, not top to bottom). Slide the two boards together, keeping the bottom flat against your bottom fence. If there is a gap at the bottom, your cut is greater than 90 deg. If there is a gap at the top, your cut is less than 90 deg. If no gap then you are right on.

Adjust your fence accordingly.

The amount of the gap is double your angle difference. You can start off with smaller pieces until you get very close then the wider the board the greater the magnification of the difference.

You could also do this with a 2” cutoff to save wood. Just make sure that the bottom edge is tight against the bottom fence in all cutting and alignment checks.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

sled is made from 26mm double laminate,

this is great stuff, it seems that getting these sleds accurate is the hot issue when building. Great info on the squaring , i will keep these as i have to do this any time i use my sliding miter saw as the stops are not accurate.

cheers

george

Hi Jaxx;

The elusive perfect square! It seems everyone has a tough time with that at some point in their woodworking.

Karson’s method is quite easy to use.

A word of caution: Using any silicon in a wood shop will create disaster when it comes to finishing your projects.

The silicon causes fish eye and can wreak havok for a long time.

Nice sled though.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

Two thoughts…

I rarely use laminate, phenolic plywood, or finishes on my jigs, unless the workpiece is supposed to slide. Bare wood provides a bit of “traction” to keep the work in place when cutting.

As Lee pointed out, leave the SILICONE spray in the garage, for the cars and mowers. There is no place in a wood shop for it. Stick with silicone-free paste wax, which you can get at any good paint store, or commercial products like Top Cote, Top Saver, etc… Good wax brands include Butchers, Trewax, etc…

Once you’ve dealt with silicone contamination, you’ll know exactly what we mean. It’s ugly, trust us…

Silicone usually won’t mess with shellac and some oil varnishes, but it plays absolute hell with lacquer and lots of water based products.

-- - Please help keep Lumberjocks an enjoyable escape by refusing to participate in political discussions. Simply spit out the bait and ignore the thread...

Nice sled!

I made a blog entry on how to square a TS sled very ACCURATELY and quickly. Below are two links that will take you to the entry (one for my LJ blog and the other for my website)

The method I show is extremely accurate and quick to perform. It is faster and more accurate than the 5-cut method PLUS you don’t waste any wood! :^).

See here:
http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/GarageWoodworks/blog/5236

AND here:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TS_Sled_Fence.htm

-- Brian http://www.garagewoodworks.com