|Project by TheWoodenOyster||posted 08-26-2014 02:52 PM||1448 views||2 times favorited||5 comments|
I built this experimental desk a few weeks ago out of some leftover cherry I had from a dining table that I built. I had wanted a desk that I could stand at as opposed to sit at for a long time. It helps my back feel much better. It also gave me a chance to try out some new techniques without the risk of screwing a commissioned piece up.
Overall dimensions are 17” deep x 30” wide x 39” tall.
The top box portion is made from a solid cherry panel glue up. I made a new sled for cutting long miter joints like the corners of this box. It needs a bit of tweaking, as I did have some gaps of around .008 to .010 in some places in my long miter joints. I am guessing a wixey might fix that problem. The grain flows continuously over the top and both sides. The glue up for this was interesting. At first I was going to try a ratchet strap setup, but I decided on just using blue painter’s tape to hold it together while it dried. The tape worked great, much better than the straps would have worked.
The legs are splayed out to provide a little more stability. They were tapered using a new taper/SLR jig that I built for the tablesaw. There are three simple inlay stripes at the tops of the legs that I cut with one .125 saw kerf thickness. Legs are attached to the box using mortises and homemade dominoes.
Finish is 2 coats of PURE tung oil. Don’t ask if it was Formby’s or Minwax. It was pure tung oil thinned with mineral spirits.
1. I wanted to test the max height I felt comfortable making legs without some sort of stretcher to hold the lower portion of the legs stable. In my opinion, these legs do need some sort of stretcher at the bottom for stabilization. I think 6” to 12” shorter, it would be fine for an occassional table that doesn’t get touched or stressed much.
2. Pure Tung Oil. I wasn’t particularly impressed. I got sort of a fugly blotching. Also it seems like the finishing process with oil should truly take weeks. Not the best protection, and not the best look either. I’ll be going back to wipe on poly.
3. Mitered corner box. I was pleased with this, and will likely use the design element again. I need to dial in my angle a little more and will probably get a wixey if the element comes up in a commission. I also found that my titebond 3 left darker glue lines than I had hoped for. From what I understand titebond 1 could solve this problem. I think this design element is pretty hot right now in consumers’ eyes, so hopefully it could catch some eyes and reel in some work. One last thing about the mitered corners. I rounded them over ever so slightly to get rid of the sharp corners. Doing this resulted in a dark line along the entire corner due to the exposed end grain and the increased finish absorption in that area. I expect this wouldn’t be so bad with wipe on poly.
Thanks for reading, questions and comment welcome!
-- The Wood Is Your Oyster