|Project by G5Flyr||posted 08-17-2014 07:41 PM||697 views||0 times favorited||1 comment|
I don’t want anyone to think I came up with this project on my own. I got the design from another woodworking site. I don’t want to violate posting rules re advertising, so if you want to know where I got the idea for this project drop me a message and I will tell you. I’m still kind of new to (project) posting so I hope using floor tile in a project isn’t a violation of the posting rules either.
My wife had been asking me to build a table upon which to place drinks and snacks while she watches TV in our MBR. I’m still a novice so the table had to be easy to build. This design was a great way to give my wife what she wanted and raise my skill level a little bit.
The top frame and rails are 1×3 (nom.) Poplar from the home center.
The legs are 2×2 (nom.) Poplar also from the home center. Tapers were cut with a hand held jig saw and refined with hand planes.
Move over to the home center’s flooring dept. and we get the 12×12 floor tile that is the “inlay” on the table top.
The tile has a backer that is 3/16” masonite.
The poplar came pre-milled. Therefore, a swipe or two with a smoothing plane was all that was necessary.
If you look at pic #3 you will see that the top frame is joined in a pattern that the site called “chasing”. I’d never heard of it. It is an end grain to edge grain joint reenforced with a biscuit.
The designers also called for biscuits to join the rails and legs. I didn’t think this would be strong enough so I used M&T that I cut with my trim router w/plunge base.
I secured the tile to the backer board with construction adhesive.
Ref pic #6: The backer board is secured to the top frame by gluing those small pieces of wood to the backer board and the frame. That is a tough clamping job so I used C/A glue as a clamp to hold everything together while the yellow glue set up and cured. Again, I didn’t come up with that idea on my own.
I stained the poplar with water based stain (Antique Cherry) and applied several thin coats of water based poly over the stain. The (numerous) imperfections were filled with wax pencils. As a final touch I applied several coats of paste wax because I like the “feel” of it.
The gap between the top frame and tile was filled with three apps of clear silicone caulking. It took three apps because the silicone kept shrinking as it cured.
IN THE FUTURE:
If I build more of these I will join the top frame using half lap joints. I will also use a contrasting wood inside the frame instead of tile.