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BT3100 Table Saw Stand

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Project by JD13 posted 08-07-2014 05:06 PM 5686 views 6 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Getting back into woodworking and needed a table saw stand as my Ryobi BT3100 table saw was mounted to a rolling dolly cart just to be mobile but was basically unusable. So I made this one for it. It’s still a work in progress. It’s got a big open space for my sleds and add-ons and three drawers for various other stuff. The box is 24”, so the drawers are deep and hold a lot of stuff. I wanted to roll it around and put it on casters, but even locking ones wouldn’t hold it still enough to be safe. So I came up with a hinged idea where I joined two 4”x4” feet to a stringer (using Rockler Beadlock) and hinged them. I installed a simple gate latch to hold them up while I roll it around. When I want them down, I lift the end up slightly and drop the feet under. When I go mobile, I lift up slightly on each end and pull them out with my foot. Then I latch them up. After reading a LOT of BT3K sites, I did some saw upgrades to make it closer to a real table saw so check out my blog on that. Also mounted some 3/4” melamine to my fence to make it more flexible – now I can slide jigs and mount stuff to it. I had this posted for a while, but it wasn’t painted and had 1 big side table. Now I painted it green with some GF Expresso stain and made 2 separate side tables the same width as the router table. Now all 3 are interchangeable so I can move the router around – again, much more flexible setup. I was going to edit out the “work in progress” part, but I just bought a JessEm Router Lift so that stock router table is about to be replaced with another homemade one for the new lift. Is anything ever “done”?

-- JD from Elk Grove





9 comments so far

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

21549 posts in 3282 days


#1 posted 08-07-2014 10:13 PM

Outstanding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Beautiful cabinet for a fine saw. I have the BT3000 and my cabinet is no where near as nice!!

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Rick  Dennington's profile (online now)

Rick Dennington

6246 posts in 3371 days


#2 posted 08-07-2014 11:27 PM

Very nice…..Them old saws deserve a good home, and you built a fine one for yours…..I built for my 1985 Craftsman several years back, and it’s still going strong…...

-- " It's a rat race out there, and the rats are winning....!!"

View jeff's profile

jeff

1112 posts in 3642 days


#3 posted 08-08-2014 04:01 AM

nice set-up…

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5767 posts in 3409 days


#4 posted 06-20-2018 07:13 PM

A couple of items…

#1. First and foremost. Fantastic work, and a REALLY good idea to boot! #2. Consider this idea stolen by a fellow BT3100 owner. I just need to throw new brushes and a switch at mine, but once that is done… #3. Have you considered enclosing the router table portion of it? Do that,and add a port and you will massively improve the dust collection. #4. How hard is it to flip the legs up / down? #5. What router are you using? I never got the Ryobi router kit to work with my Hitachi KM12VC. #6. You don’t show the back of the cabinet. Do you have any dust collection provision for the bottom of the saw beyond the blade guard? These saws get a TON of sawdust in the bottom even when a vac is hooked to the lower blade surround…

-- Please like and subscribe to my YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/c/daves-workshop

View metolius's profile

metolius

54 posts in 907 days


#5 posted 06-20-2018 07:40 PM

woot ! BTs still live.

I don’t know why I’ve kept my bt3100 for so many years. Except … it keeps going and going with no disappointment beyond table depth and power for 8/4 hardwood.

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5767 posts in 3409 days


#6 posted 06-20-2018 08:06 PM

Hmmm. Before my brushes started going bad, I had no issues with 8/4 maple on my BT3100. Maybe that’s how I toasted the brushes… Who knows? Are you using a thin kerf blade or full kerf? The blade makes all the difference in the word with these 1.5hp saws… I use a thin kerf Freud Diablo blade, 60T for cross cutting, 40T for ripping and general purpose…

Table depth I can’t help you with. Aside from maybe design / build a cabinet like this, with a built in outfeed table section and add the length you want.

-- Please like and subscribe to my YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/c/daves-workshop

View metolius's profile

metolius

54 posts in 907 days


#7 posted 06-21-2018 01:24 AM

I’ve got a good out feed table, also, extended rails with routers on both left and right wings. A PC690 and a Triton.

An incra fence manages the router on the right wing ( a custom top ). Its handy to have the extra router where one always has a chamfer, always ready for a quick edge finish. I don’t enclose the router table, but … I do store a trash can under the router and a 6mil sheet drapes from the table’s under side like a curtain to funnel the trim dust into it.

I don’t use thin kerf b/c I don’t like to change blades much and commonly dado with the main blade.
8/4 is usually OK with oaks and western maple, but harder stuff bogs.

The depth I would like most is a touch more space in front of the blade. The next saw will be 3HP.
But, the BT keeps on going ! So, maybe I’ll get a thin kerf for special situations.

View JD13's profile

JD13

23 posts in 1568 days


#8 posted 06-21-2018 03:32 PM

Hey Mitolius, here’s my answers/thoughts back: 1. Thanks! #2. FYI, I’ve had no brush issues yet, but I’ve had a LOT of issues with dust clogging the trunnion. I have to constantly take the saw apart to clean it. And once it starts getting difficult to raise, I notice the saw tilt a little. First time that happened, I ruined some work but now I know to keep an eye on it – it’s the dual-purpose handle causing that. #3. Couldn’t agree more and I actually did that. However, because of point 2 above, I constantly have to take the sides off the saw to clean it, so I pulled the enclosure back off. Bummer. #4. Super easy as long as you are standing square at the end, just grab the rails, lift, and kick them under. However, it’s near impossible while standing in front or back because you can’t lift the side of the saw up from that position. But so far it hasn’t been a problem – only when I get lazy! #5. Not sure what you mean by router kit. I have the side router table that came with the saw and I mounted the Ryobi directly to it with no additional kit. But, I bought a Jess’em router lift that I’ll be replacing it with and switching over to my Porter Cable for the lift and will then use the Ryobi as my freehand router. #6. The saw has a built-in 3” dust port that fits my shop vac, so I didn’t see the need to add anything additional. But you are right that, even with the shop vac hooked up, I still get a lot of dust in and around and under the saw top, sides, and bottom. The dust port is really only saving the stream of dust that comes out from the little catch bin under the saw. Since I posted this, I have painted the base green and made some changes. I’ll try to get new pics up soon. And as far as outfeed, my workbench is the same height as the top of the saw so I just use that for outfeed. Thanks!

-- JD from Elk Grove

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dbhost

5767 posts in 3409 days


#9 posted 06-21-2018 03:45 PM

Well, FWIW, I get it, and yes, the 1.5HP saws are supposed to run thin kerf blades. If not, you end up where you are…

I agree on the space before the blade issue. I am wanting my next saw to be a 3HP SawStop, but that’s money I don’t have at this time…

-- Please like and subscribe to my YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/c/daves-workshop

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