Switch Plate Covers

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Project by JFed posted 48 days ago 1122 views 3 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Switch Plate Covers
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One cover was made standard size and the other was made deliberately smaller in width to fit where the light switch is very close to a door jam.

-- J-Fed, Atlanta, GA,

10 comments so far

View TheFridge's profile


545 posts in 90 days

#1 posted 48 days ago

Nice. Red oak? Did you route out the back to allow for the switch and screws?

-- "We build our workshops. Then we enjoy the fruits of our labor by laboring for more fruits." - Me

View JFed's profile


39 posts in 62 days

#2 posted 48 days ago

Actually they are poplar with a red oak stain. I did have to route out the back for switch and screws.

-- J-Fed, Atlanta, GA,

View MarkTheFiddler's profile


1732 posts in 792 days

#3 posted 48 days ago

Oh heck Jfed. You have totally messed me up! Now I have to replace every single plate in the whole house. Thanks for the idea. I hope mine end up looking remotely as good as yours.

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

View helluvawreck's profile


15443 posts in 1470 days

#4 posted 48 days ago

Nice work and very practical.

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

View Mean_Dean's profile


1270 posts in 1751 days

#5 posted 48 days ago

Great looking switch covers! How did you drill out the slots, and get them nice and square?

-- Dean

View JFed's profile


39 posts in 62 days

#6 posted 48 days ago

To make the cutout hole for the switch, first I drew my layout lines using my 4” square.
Then I drilled out inside the line. And finally work to the line with a chisel. You could also use a mortiser to drill them out square.

-- J-Fed, Atlanta, GA,

View KS_Sparky's profile


22 posts in 227 days

#7 posted 47 days ago

Fyi…paraphrasing the 2011 NEC, faceplates must…

A) completely cover box opening and sit flush with the switch and the wall finish
B) metal faceplate must be continuous to the equipment grouping conductor
C) ferrous metal faceplate must be at least 0.03 in thick, non-ferrous metal at least 0.04 in thick, and non metallic must be noncombustible and at least 0.01 in thick.

I think these are real cool and well done. I especially like that you can customize them to fit the space.
Commercial wooden plates are expensive and one size fits all. The ones I have seen also have a metallic or plastic backing to comply with C. Very cool, though!

-- apprentice Electrician, IBEW L.U. 226

View dhazelton's profile


1157 posts in 900 days

#8 posted 47 days ago

I was gonna post what sparky said (he said it better with some backup, though). Switches will arc if not flipped quickly. Maybe some metal foil tape like you use for ductwork on the back would be the answer.

View KS_Sparky's profile


22 posts in 227 days

#9 posted 47 days ago

I wouldn’t be too worried about it. I just wanted to make you aware. Any arcing would be interior to the snap switch, as the moving contacts are enclosed.

-- apprentice Electrician, IBEW L.U. 226

View NZPenfold's profile


4 posts in 381 days

#10 posted 34 days ago

you could amke the covers to go over existing platic covers…..that would solve the combustible issue…..would make them a little bulky though…..but love your work…..nice job

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