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Switch Plate Covers

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Project by JFed posted 06-12-2014 02:30 PM 1278 views 4 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Switch Plate Covers
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One cover was made standard size and the other was made deliberately smaller in width to fit where the light switch is very close to a door jam.

-- J-Fed, Atlanta, GA, http://www.j-fed.com





10 comments so far

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

1032 posts in 240 days


#1 posted 06-12-2014 05:05 PM

Nice. Red oak? Did you route out the back to allow for the switch and screws?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View JFed's profile

JFed

39 posts in 213 days


#2 posted 06-12-2014 05:26 PM

Actually they are poplar with a red oak stain. I did have to route out the back for switch and screws.

-- J-Fed, Atlanta, GA, http://www.j-fed.com

View MarkTheFiddler's profile

MarkTheFiddler

1907 posts in 943 days


#3 posted 06-12-2014 06:03 PM

Oh heck Jfed. You have totally messed me up! Now I have to replace every single plate in the whole house. Thanks for the idea. I hope mine end up looking remotely as good as yours.

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

16043 posts in 1621 days


#4 posted 06-12-2014 07:23 PM

Nice work and very practical.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

View Mean_Dean's profile

Mean_Dean

1815 posts in 1902 days


#5 posted 06-12-2014 11:58 PM

Great looking switch covers! How did you drill out the slots, and get them nice and square?

-- Dean

View JFed's profile

JFed

39 posts in 213 days


#6 posted 06-13-2014 09:56 AM

To make the cutout hole for the switch, first I drew my layout lines using my 4” square.
Then I drilled out inside the line. And finally work to the line with a chisel. You could also use a mortiser to drill them out square.

-- J-Fed, Atlanta, GA, http://www.j-fed.com

View KS_Sparky's profile

KS_Sparky

26 posts in 377 days


#7 posted 06-13-2014 01:02 PM

Fyi…paraphrasing the 2011 NEC, faceplates must…

A) completely cover box opening and sit flush with the switch and the wall finish
B) metal faceplate must be continuous to the equipment grouping conductor
C) ferrous metal faceplate must be at least 0.03 in thick, non-ferrous metal at least 0.04 in thick, and non metallic must be noncombustible and at least 0.01 in thick.

I think these are real cool and well done. I especially like that you can customize them to fit the space.
Commercial wooden plates are expensive and one size fits all. The ones I have seen also have a metallic or plastic backing to comply with C. Very cool, though!

-- apprentice Electrician, IBEW L.U. 226

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

1290 posts in 1051 days


#8 posted 06-13-2014 01:36 PM

I was gonna post what sparky said (he said it better with some backup, though). Switches will arc if not flipped quickly. Maybe some metal foil tape like you use for ductwork on the back would be the answer.

View KS_Sparky's profile

KS_Sparky

26 posts in 377 days


#9 posted 06-13-2014 05:31 PM

I wouldn’t be too worried about it. I just wanted to make you aware. Any arcing would be interior to the snap switch, as the moving contacts are enclosed.

-- apprentice Electrician, IBEW L.U. 226

View NZPenfold's profile

NZPenfold

6 posts in 531 days


#10 posted 06-26-2014 08:34 PM

you could amke the covers to go over existing platic covers…..that would solve the combustible issue…..would make them a little bulky though…..but love your work…..nice job

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