6-Panel Pocket Door

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Project by mcshaker posted 10-01-2008 08:15 PM 3326 views 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is a 6-panel door I made for to fit the existing pocket leading to my bathroom.

It is made from 8/4 poplar resawn to the needed 1 1/4” for the stiles and rails. The panels were resawn from the same 8/4 lumber into three 3/8” pieces. Which were then book matched to make each panel 24” wide with vertical grain.

The joinery is dowel joints again. I was planing on doing my first mortise and tenons in this piece. But, I accidentally figured the rails to short in my drawings to cut in the tenons. So solution was dowels. but this time I bought a doweling jig and some centers, so a pretty smooth operation.

I dry fit the door without the panels and used my router to cut a chamfer around where each panel would go. Then, used my chisel to square out the rounded corners.

I did add a metal mending plate on the forward top and bottom joints since all the force will be applied the bad way to that joint when opening and closing door.

Finish was 3 coats poly mixed with mixol pigment for color. Plus a final clear coat of the poly. I was not as happy with the mixol in poly as I was with it in shellac. It seemed to not mix as well. And with the poly being clearer to start with than the shellac it didn’t seem to build up color as quickly.

Hanging it was just the bear I thought it was going to be and I did scratch the finsh pretty bad and had to make some repairs. Sorry I didn’t take some photos before hanging but I was too excited about having a real door on my john. :)

2 comments so far

View lew's profile


12102 posts in 3780 days

#1 posted 10-02-2008 01:22 AM

I like these doors but they are a MAJOR bear to work on. Looked at one that had a failed top roller in a home that was over 100 years old. It was either dismantle the original trim- hoping it didn’t crack- or cutting a hole in the plaster wall and trying to conceal it later. Thankfully the owner decided to just leave it open.- It wasn’t to the john.

Nice work!

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View ToddE's profile


143 posts in 3959 days

#2 posted 10-04-2008 05:51 AM

Nice door.
I can tell you that I didn’t have good luck with the mixol tints in the urethane either. I found that I would have pigments left over in the bottom of my bowl and it tended to “ball” in the solution. I don’t really think that the poly was meant to accept a mixed solution. I think one should find the base solution (water/oil) and try mixing the same type of dyes in it to see which would be soluble. Like if you use a oil based urethane, I would imagine that the dye would have to be diluted in a solvent similar to the urethane base. I tried the same thing on a table I posted on here. For a couple weeks afterwards, you could still rub the finish and get a mahagony tint from it. I used the Transtints. I even posted a picture of the tint in the urethane and I think you could see the separation. Oh well, you don’t learn if you don’t do it. There is a good reason why people have nice shop furniture, expensive learning curve, but one that is useful when in need of cabinets for the shop. I have cabinets I have to attach that are going right over a pocket door wall…have any drawings or ideas of mounting a 26×30 bathroom vanity cabinet over a pocket door wall? Not too much wood there ya know. Thanks, God bless, Todd

-- Allegheny Woodshop

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