# Reproduction of 18th Century Stool

 Project by Carey Mitchell posted 05-30-2014 02:26 AM 2515 views 6 times favorited 13 comments

We saw the original stool in an antique shop several years ago and loved everything except the price tag. I took a few photos with a cell phone and a couple of measurements. When I started last month, the only dimension I could recall was 16” across the base. I blew up one of the photos and worked out the other dimensions based on the 16.” I changed a few details, one is the use of 1 1/2” stock for the base, which yielded a stronger piece.

This simple little stool presented a number of challenges that I had never encountered. The major one was how to create the curve in the seat. Obviously, the concave and convex sides had to be treated differently. The jig with the sled for the router solved the problem – except for calculating the radius of the arc to yield a 1” depth across a 20” span – found the formula in a little reference book, as well as by trial and error. I thought it would look better with the ends thicker than the middle, which dictated a longer radius for the curve of the bottom. I wanted it 3/8 thicker on the ends, but somehow it yielded only 1/4.” The jig is shown with both the convex and concave guides. A bowl bit was used to hog out the material. Waxing the guides made a big difference in reduced friction, making the router easy to slide, although at one point it was too easy and difficult to control.

Another challenge was how to produce the 1/4” grooves on the edges, spaced exactly 1/4” from the edges, on both the sides (easy) and the ends, with their 8 degree angle. This was complicated by having to do it in reverse for top and bottom. A plywood auxiliary base for the router, with a guide at 8 degrees, and a second base with the 8 degree guide in the opposite direction, solved the problem. Fortunately, all the grooves on the ends matched those on the sides perfectly.

I canted the base in 3 degrees at the top to help prevent racking.

The wood is cherry, stained with Transtint Brown Mahogany dye. The finish is tung oil, followed by 3 coats of sprayed lacquer, mixed 1/2 semi-gloss and 1/2 satin to get the gloss level I like.