|Project by harum||posted 75 days ago||546 views||1 time favorited||2 comments|
Done with finishing touches for three open kitchen shelves this morning. Made of red oak (on one of the photos), they were originally planned to be finished with a varnish to show off the grain, but I eventually painted them with oil-based white enamel to “match the cabinets”. The brackets are 11-1/2” by 11-1/2” and connected to the frame with loose tenons. Each shelf is 3/4” thick x 41” wide x 12-1/2” deep and is a glue-up of two narrower boards. A No.4 Bailey with a couple of winding sticks turned out to work great for flattening the glue-ups.
For the finish, I put two coats of white shellac-based BIN primer, then sanded almost everything off, coated with the primer again, scuffed the surface, brushed on two coats of white enamel with sanding/scuffing in between. Sanding all the details was the longest step in the finishing process and quite a chore.
I used 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” aluminum angles screwed to the wall studs (seen in one of the photos) as a backbone for the shelves. The lights will go underneath the bottom shelf. The distance between the brackets is 33”, which, theoretically, means no visible sagging for oak even for a 100 lb. load in the center.
Well, glad I am finally done with this project. Oak was a great wood to work with. Next time will try to use wood filler to close the pores more efficiently.
Things I learned from these shelves to keep in mind for my next projects:
—use food filler for porous woods for a smooth finish;
—a prototype in soft wood actually saves time, because it helps fix design flaws;
—small pieces of hard wood can split and fray (and fly) when routed against the grain;
—hammering a tenon into a tight mortise cracks the latter;
—an extra minute or two of measuring save much more time later on;
-- Having finished many DIY projects, I still don't know how things should be done, but I surely know how they should not be done.