|Project by thetinman||posted 05-02-2014 04:08 PM||4859 views||20 times favorited||15 comments|
EDIT: THIS PROJECT WAS EDITED ONLY TO ADD A LINK TO THE DRESSED OUT TABLESAW
This project is part of a bundle of projects building some basic shop tools and table saw jigs. The project series concludes with dressing out the table saw. As each project is posted links are added to the items in the list to keep everything bundled.
ZC Plug for Factory Plate http://lumberjocks.com/projects/99601
T-Square – Circle Saw – Router Guide http://lumberjocks.com/projects/100650
Dowel Cutting Jig http://lumberjocks.com/projects/100728
Tablesaw Push Sticks http://lumberjocks.com/projects/100725
Pimped out Table saw: Router Table, Router Fence, Left Side Table, Out feed Table, Shelves/Cabinets
We all use push sticks for the tablesaw. The most common is the “deer-foot” style like the wooden ones at the bottom of the first pic. These are the standard fair and a new tablesaw typically comes with a plastic one of these nowadays. For non-through cuts and wide rips many use a flat gripper like the Shopsmith one at the top of the pic. The one in the center is the one we’ll be making.
The standard deer-foot design is fine for pushing but it does not give any downward force on the workpiece. I angle the back of the handles on mine. That makes them better but still not good. This style almost begs you to use 2 of them – one for pushing and one for holding the board down past the back of the saw blade. Your best and safest option for this is to clamp a feather board on the fence rather than do this. I prefer, as many do, the push stick in the middle. It pushes but the angled handle let’s you put downward force on the board also. This is especially handy for shorter pieces to be ripped – very good control. I also like that, in addition to the side distance, my fingers are never closer than 2-inches above the board and they can’t slip. I like my pinky and plan to keep it. It’s where I hang my doughnut when I’m at one of my wife’s friend’s fancy teas.
This is a straightforward sketch and cut project. In the layout drawing I’ve done everything by the tape measure rather than angles. I prefer working this way. It seems like angles always come out to something stupid like 30.62-degrees. I don’t care what the angles are. So just measure and line it out on ¾ ply. Also note in the drawing that the pusher at the rear bottom of the stick is ½ or ¼-inches. I have one of each. The ½-inch one works well for thick stock and the other for ¼ and thinner. The easiest way is to make the ½ inch one. Then trace that on a piece of ply, cut it and cut the pusher to ¼-inches when you’re done.
Now that it’s lined out, radius all the corners except along the bottom. Bad things do happen from time to time and I don’t like any sharp angles grabbing or pinching me. Now before you start cutting, I like the handles on things to be what I like and what I’m used to. Note the handle in your layout does not look like the handle on my push stick in the pic. I’ve had a little 16-inch saw for years – way back to my construction days (and that’s way back). It’s God-awful and I love it. The blade is somewhere between a ripping blade and a tree-trimming blade. I just show it to a piece of wood or a limb and it falls apart in fear.
My push stick handle is the part of the saw handle that you hold. I put it down over the layout lines for a best fit and trace it. Use your imagination and do what you like best. It’s a push stick. What the devil can you screw up? It’s not like they’re pretty – they’re like tires and tires ain’t purdy.
Cut the stick out when you have it the way you want it. Then sand or rout all the edges except along the bottom. Again thing happen and you don’t want any sharp edges. Besides, it’s easier and more comfortable to hold if the edges are eased.
-- Life is what happens to you while you are planning better things -Mark Twain