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225K views 70 replies 51 participants last post by  AJV  
#1 ·
Drunken Alice in Wonderland Cutting Board

Hey everybody, after a few personal messages here is my version of a how to on a Drunken Checker Board. I of coarse bow to the Chairman of the Board and pay tribute with beer. This is a Off-Checker pattern I call "Drunken Alice in Wonderland" The "serendipitous" nature of this piece is appealing in a far out sort of way. Here Goes…

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So first I prepare the Material. I am using Hard Maple and Walnut both are surfaced flat and cut 1" x 9" x 14" You only need ONE piece of each, for two boards. (In this multi part blog I'll be making four boards).

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I'm also using 1/8" Cherry strips for the outline in between the blocks. I rip some 3/16" x 1" x 28" long. and surface each side to 1/8" on my planer so both faces are smooth.

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We will be making 5 rips and 6 cross cuts in two boards so make plenty of strips the first time so they are all uniform.

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Then Double sided tape one Walnut and one Hard Maple blank together, flat and square, to run through bandsaw.
I make 5 length-wise rips with a S shape and a Opposing S shape making what I call a vase shape. Your Imagination is your only limit here and the fact that you have to clamp it back together.

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I then lightly sand the cuts smooth trying not to change the shape of the cut at all.

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In a orderly fashion pull pieces apart and alternating pieces lay out two matching boards.

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Place Cherry strips in between each cut. Glue everything in between, and clamp till dry.

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I surface our curvy blanks flat and square so we can tape them back together.
Ok, we now have two curvy blanks with strips. Half-way there.

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Double sided Tape them back together. (This is where the serendipity happened for me).
Tape them together so a dark color is over a light color this will create the checkerboard part during the next series of cross cuts. For the Drunken Alice in Wonderland effect when taping the two together make sure the curves also oppose each other the stripes will not match up.

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Make Six cross cuts using the same style a S cut and a opposing S cut or Vase cut like so.

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Once again sand, pull apart in order, alternate pieces making two boards with a checkerboard pattern.
Add Strips, glue, and clamp. When clamping I try to line up the edges of the pieces as best I can this is important to get a good tight fit in the curves, through heavy pressure, to avoid any gaps I use my big pipe clamps

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I trim, surface, sand, rout edges, and apply mineral oil.

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Part two of this blog will be much the same process however I will illustrate how to produce a smooth flowing Drunken checkerboard pattern, Where the strips line up in a smooth wave.

Ok, I thank you all for the inspiration you have given me and I will challenge you all to come up with the different possibilities this basic design offers. We are only limited by our imaginations and clamping capacities.

I dedicate this post to my grandfather Theodore M Porosky who taught me the joys of woodworking, 20 years ago by making cutting boards in his work shop.
 
#6 ·
test question :
if you do 3 boards , how many do you get ?
if you do 4 ?
or 5 ?
how about 6 ?
thats what this started as 6 boards
just count the different kinds of wood .

so how many boxes ?
 
#8 ·
6 boxes? (I reserve the right to edit this to the correct answer) 1 box a board?
This is pure genius or complete insanity!
Great, Inspiring Idea! I see it now.
I was thinking when I was making these, you could make a table or panels out of these because the boards match up you could join a bunch together for a lid to a box or a door for that matter. I feel like we are drinking beers in the woodshop together.
 
#10 ·
the higher the stack ,
the more careful the cut .
if the blade gets to whipping , the top board ,
and the bottom board have slight irregulars in them .

your answerer is correct ,
how ever there are only 2 like this one ,
after the first cut and glue up i used the other matches for other stacked cuts
 
#14 ·
Scott, this is a nice blog on the construction of these boards. I have been meaning to try one (of course I have to clear out some of my other "commissions" that my wife has given me) and this has been both an inspiration and a well documented tutorial. I will be following this series.
 
#16 ·
Both Curly Maple AND Curly Walnut !!! You're my hero , Scottie : ) Thanks for simplifying this process for the weak at heart like myself : ) Your blog and photos are excellent and I am looking forward to your next post on this subject. What size blade are you using and do you draw lines to follow , or just freehand your curves ?
That's a nice sanding drum that you have there . What's the model # ?
 
#17 ·
Len, 1/2" Timberwolf. would do this fine. For this blog I left on my 1" 3tpi resaw blade. (lazy) I cut the curves free hand with out lines in a semi specific way due to the lack of any nessasary pattern. All I have is Curly wood I can't help it. It's the Grizzly drum and flap sander I think its a 4" drum, VERY handy for the cost.
When are we going to see your next project post? get to work.
 
#18 ·
Thanks for the feedback , Scott. I still haven't posted my last project , because I'm going to Tewksbury to retrieve it on my way to Lexington and the LJ picnic this Saturday . I want to get some pics of it in the daylight and now the young couple have decided which side of the board that they want the juice groove cut into.
That's one of the boards that I ordered some sweet Curly Maple from Poroskywood.com on Ebay for.
Ever hear of them ? The owner is one HECK of a nice guy and the products couldn't be better.!!
Also , the fast shipping and care taken with packaging the products can't be beat. : )

I try to avoid changing my bandsaw blade as well unless I really have too…I don't think it's a laziness issue as much as it is a necessary evil : )