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#1 ·
The first twelve parts

Several of you have asked for instruction for making the all wood folding knives I,ve been doing for a number of years. Hope I can give that instruction through this blog series. If to many get fed-up with this please let me know to stop. Starting today 4/27/16 we will begin. It would probably be a good idea to have a folding pocket knife handy to be able to look to see the pieces we are talking about. I will be making three knives at this time.
#1 is choosing the material. You can make the handles (scales) from whatever dark color (for good contrast) wood you would like. You will need some very light colored stock such as maple for the material which would normally be the shinny stuff (on a metal knife) such as the bolsters, blades, blade liners and springs. For this knife we will use 1 1/16" wide material (best in most cases). Bolsters and handles should be close to 1/4" thick. Handles are 1/4 X 1 1/16 X 2 1/16". The blade and spring stock is 1 1/16 wide X appx 0.150 to 0.175 thick X 4 3/4" long.
All this is not real critical but all four pcs. should be very close to the same thickness.
Brown Rectangle Wood Beige Flooring
pictures tomorrow of blade and spring stock. Next is the blade liners and again 1 1/16 wide X 4 3/4 X appx. 0.040 thick. When you have all these twelve pieces cut to your satisfaction it is time for the first glue up.
Drill Wood Table Flooring Rectangle
I will try not to forget I have been doing this for fifteen years and you will be getting instructions after my hundreds of mistakes. You are now fitting the handles and bolsters to the blade liners. It is best to get the closest fit as to ends butting tight and liners and other pieces straight with each other. I use an abundance of glue and only wipe off the bottoms for now.
Drill Wood Table Flooring Rectangle
Best to use three fairly strong squeeze clamps and the clamp for the ends pushes the bolsters and handle ends tight to each other.
Wood Tints and shades Rectangle Paint Flooring
Looks like a lot for a small operation but is very important that every joint is tight.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Flooring Handgun holster
Now allow to dry completely and tomorrow we take off the clamps. Then get rid of the glue squeeze out and square up these assembly's. PMs with questions are welcome or you can ask through comments so so all can see the answers. Good luck cutting. Thanks for looking.
.
 

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#2 ·
The first twelve parts

Several of you have asked for instruction for making the all wood folding knives I,ve been doing for a number of years. Hope I can give that instruction through this blog series. If to many get fed-up with this please let me know to stop. Starting today 4/27/16 we will begin. It would probably be a good idea to have a folding pocket knife handy to be able to look to see the pieces we are talking about. I will be making three knives at this time.
#1 is choosing the material. You can make the handles (scales) from whatever dark color (for good contrast) wood you would like. You will need some very light colored stock such as maple for the material which would normally be the shinny stuff (on a metal knife) such as the bolsters, blades, blade liners and springs. For this knife we will use 1 1/16" wide material (best in most cases). Bolsters and handles should be close to 1/4" thick. Handles are 1/4 X 1 1/16 X 2 1/16". The blade and spring stock is 1 1/16 wide X appx 0.150 to 0.175 thick X 4 3/4" long.
All this is not real critical but all four pcs. should be very close to the same thickness.
Brown Rectangle Wood Beige Flooring
pictures tomorrow of blade and spring stock. Next is the blade liners and again 1 1/16 wide X 4 3/4 X appx. 0.040 thick. When you have all these twelve pieces cut to your satisfaction it is time for the first glue up.
Drill Wood Table Flooring Rectangle
I will try not to forget I have been doing this for fifteen years and you will be getting instructions after my hundreds of mistakes. You are now fitting the handles and bolsters to the blade liners. It is best to get the closest fit as to ends butting tight and liners and other pieces straight with each other. I use an abundance of glue and only wipe off the bottoms for now.
Drill Wood Table Flooring Rectangle
Best to use three fairly strong squeeze clamps and the clamp for the ends pushes the bolsters and handle ends tight to each other.
Wood Tints and shades Rectangle Paint Flooring
Looks like a lot for a small operation but is very important that every joint is tight.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Flooring Handgun holster
Now allow to dry completely and tomorrow we take off the clamps. Then get rid of the glue squeeze out and square up these assembly's. PMs with questions are welcome or you can ask through comments so so all can see the answers. Good luck cutting. Thanks for looking.
.
I think this will be an interesting process to follow. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
 

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#3 ·
The first twelve parts

Several of you have asked for instruction for making the all wood folding knives I,ve been doing for a number of years. Hope I can give that instruction through this blog series. If to many get fed-up with this please let me know to stop. Starting today 4/27/16 we will begin. It would probably be a good idea to have a folding pocket knife handy to be able to look to see the pieces we are talking about. I will be making three knives at this time.
#1 is choosing the material. You can make the handles (scales) from whatever dark color (for good contrast) wood you would like. You will need some very light colored stock such as maple for the material which would normally be the shinny stuff (on a metal knife) such as the bolsters, blades, blade liners and springs. For this knife we will use 1 1/16" wide material (best in most cases). Bolsters and handles should be close to 1/4" thick. Handles are 1/4 X 1 1/16 X 2 1/16". The blade and spring stock is 1 1/16 wide X appx 0.150 to 0.175 thick X 4 3/4" long.
All this is not real critical but all four pcs. should be very close to the same thickness.
Brown Rectangle Wood Beige Flooring
pictures tomorrow of blade and spring stock. Next is the blade liners and again 1 1/16 wide X 4 3/4 X appx. 0.040 thick. When you have all these twelve pieces cut to your satisfaction it is time for the first glue up.
Drill Wood Table Flooring Rectangle
I will try not to forget I have been doing this for fifteen years and you will be getting instructions after my hundreds of mistakes. You are now fitting the handles and bolsters to the blade liners. It is best to get the closest fit as to ends butting tight and liners and other pieces straight with each other. I use an abundance of glue and only wipe off the bottoms for now.
Drill Wood Table Flooring Rectangle
Best to use three fairly strong squeeze clamps and the clamp for the ends pushes the bolsters and handle ends tight to each other.
Wood Tints and shades Rectangle Paint Flooring
Looks like a lot for a small operation but is very important that every joint is tight.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Flooring Handgun holster
Now allow to dry completely and tomorrow we take off the clamps. Then get rid of the glue squeeze out and square up these assembly's. PMs with questions are welcome or you can ask through comments so so all can see the answers. Good luck cutting. Thanks for looking.
.
Hey Vernon, I'm glad you are putting this up. I look forward to following your
process. Keep up the good work.
flint
 

Attachments

#4 ·
The first twelve parts

Several of you have asked for instruction for making the all wood folding knives I,ve been doing for a number of years. Hope I can give that instruction through this blog series. If to many get fed-up with this please let me know to stop. Starting today 4/27/16 we will begin. It would probably be a good idea to have a folding pocket knife handy to be able to look to see the pieces we are talking about. I will be making three knives at this time.
#1 is choosing the material. You can make the handles (scales) from whatever dark color (for good contrast) wood you would like. You will need some very light colored stock such as maple for the material which would normally be the shinny stuff (on a metal knife) such as the bolsters, blades, blade liners and springs. For this knife we will use 1 1/16" wide material (best in most cases). Bolsters and handles should be close to 1/4" thick. Handles are 1/4 X 1 1/16 X 2 1/16". The blade and spring stock is 1 1/16 wide X appx 0.150 to 0.175 thick X 4 3/4" long.
All this is not real critical but all four pcs. should be very close to the same thickness.
pictures tomorrow of blade and spring stock. Next is the blade liners and again 1 1/16 wide X 4 3/4 X appx. 0.040 thick. When you have all these twelve pieces cut to your satisfaction it is time for the first glue up.
I will try not to forget I have been doing this for fifteen years and you will be getting instructions after my hundreds of mistakes. You are now fitting the handles and bolsters to the blade liners. It is best to get the closest fit as to ends butting tight and liners and other pieces straight with each other. I use an abundance of glue and only wipe off the bottoms for now.
Best to use three fairly strong squeeze clamps and the clamp for the ends pushes the bolsters and handle ends tight to each other.
Looks like a lot for a small operation but is very important that every joint is tight.
Now allow to dry completely and tomorrow we take off the clamps. Then get rid of the glue squeeze out and square up these assembly's. PMs with questions are welcome or you can ask through comments so so all can see the answers. Good luck cutting. Thanks for looking.
.
You are a master at this Vernon. I show off the blue oval one you made for me to everyone who comes over. They all luv it.
 

Attachments

#5 ·
The first twelve parts

Several of you have asked for instruction for making the all wood folding knives I,ve been doing for a number of years. Hope I can give that instruction through this blog series. If to many get fed-up with this please let me know to stop. Starting today 4/27/16 we will begin. It would probably be a good idea to have a folding pocket knife handy to be able to look to see the pieces we are talking about. I will be making three knives at this time.
#1 is choosing the material. You can make the handles (scales) from whatever dark color (for good contrast) wood you would like. You will need some very light colored stock such as maple for the material which would normally be the shinny stuff (on a metal knife) such as the bolsters, blades, blade liners and springs. For this knife we will use 1 1/16" wide material (best in most cases). Bolsters and handles should be close to 1/4" thick. Handles are 1/4 X 1 1/16 X 2 1/16". The blade and spring stock is 1 1/16 wide X appx 0.150 to 0.175 thick X 4 3/4" long.
All this is not real critical but all four pcs. should be very close to the same thickness.
Brown Rectangle Wood Beige Flooring
pictures tomorrow of blade and spring stock. Next is the blade liners and again 1 1/16 wide X 4 3/4 X appx. 0.040 thick. When you have all these twelve pieces cut to your satisfaction it is time for the first glue up.
Drill Wood Table Flooring Rectangle
I will try not to forget I have been doing this for fifteen years and you will be getting instructions after my hundreds of mistakes. You are now fitting the handles and bolsters to the blade liners. It is best to get the closest fit as to ends butting tight and liners and other pieces straight with each other. I use an abundance of glue and only wipe off the bottoms for now.
Drill Wood Table Flooring Rectangle
Best to use three fairly strong squeeze clamps and the clamp for the ends pushes the bolsters and handle ends tight to each other.
Wood Tints and shades Rectangle Paint Flooring
Looks like a lot for a small operation but is very important that every joint is tight.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Flooring Handgun holster
Now allow to dry completely and tomorrow we take off the clamps. Then get rid of the glue squeeze out and square up these assembly's. PMs with questions are welcome or you can ask through comments so so all can see the answers. Good luck cutting. Thanks for looking.
.
OK. Count me in. It's interesting enough to get my attention and the blade won't cut me.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
The first twelve parts

Several of you have asked for instruction for making the all wood folding knives I,ve been doing for a number of years. Hope I can give that instruction through this blog series. If to many get fed-up with this please let me know to stop. Starting today 4/27/16 we will begin. It would probably be a good idea to have a folding pocket knife handy to be able to look to see the pieces we are talking about. I will be making three knives at this time.
#1 is choosing the material. You can make the handles (scales) from whatever dark color (for good contrast) wood you would like. You will need some very light colored stock such as maple for the material which would normally be the shinny stuff (on a metal knife) such as the bolsters, blades, blade liners and springs. For this knife we will use 1 1/16" wide material (best in most cases). Bolsters and handles should be close to 1/4" thick. Handles are 1/4 X 1 1/16 X 2 1/16". The blade and spring stock is 1 1/16 wide X appx 0.150 to 0.175 thick X 4 3/4" long.
All this is not real critical but all four pcs. should be very close to the same thickness.
Brown Rectangle Wood Beige Flooring
pictures tomorrow of blade and spring stock. Next is the blade liners and again 1 1/16 wide X 4 3/4 X appx. 0.040 thick. When you have all these twelve pieces cut to your satisfaction it is time for the first glue up.
Drill Wood Table Flooring Rectangle
I will try not to forget I have been doing this for fifteen years and you will be getting instructions after my hundreds of mistakes. You are now fitting the handles and bolsters to the blade liners. It is best to get the closest fit as to ends butting tight and liners and other pieces straight with each other. I use an abundance of glue and only wipe off the bottoms for now.
Drill Wood Table Flooring Rectangle
Best to use three fairly strong squeeze clamps and the clamp for the ends pushes the bolsters and handle ends tight to each other.
Wood Tints and shades Rectangle Paint Flooring
Looks like a lot for a small operation but is very important that every joint is tight.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Flooring Handgun holster
Now allow to dry completely and tomorrow we take off the clamps. Then get rid of the glue squeeze out and square up these assembly's. PMs with questions are welcome or you can ask through comments so so all can see the answers. Good luck cutting. Thanks for looking.
.
What is your preference for the type of glue? Slow or quick setting?
 

Attachments

#7 ·
The first twelve parts

Several of you have asked for instruction for making the all wood folding knives I,ve been doing for a number of years. Hope I can give that instruction through this blog series. If to many get fed-up with this please let me know to stop. Starting today 4/27/16 we will begin. It would probably be a good idea to have a folding pocket knife handy to be able to look to see the pieces we are talking about. I will be making three knives at this time.
#1 is choosing the material. You can make the handles (scales) from whatever dark color (for good contrast) wood you would like. You will need some very light colored stock such as maple for the material which would normally be the shinny stuff (on a metal knife) such as the bolsters, blades, blade liners and springs. For this knife we will use 1 1/16" wide material (best in most cases). Bolsters and handles should be close to 1/4" thick. Handles are 1/4 X 1 1/16 X 2 1/16". The blade and spring stock is 1 1/16 wide X appx 0.150 to 0.175 thick X 4 3/4" long.
All this is not real critical but all four pcs. should be very close to the same thickness.
Brown Rectangle Wood Beige Flooring
pictures tomorrow of blade and spring stock. Next is the blade liners and again 1 1/16 wide X 4 3/4 X appx. 0.040 thick. When you have all these twelve pieces cut to your satisfaction it is time for the first glue up.
Drill Wood Table Flooring Rectangle
I will try not to forget I have been doing this for fifteen years and you will be getting instructions after my hundreds of mistakes. You are now fitting the handles and bolsters to the blade liners. It is best to get the closest fit as to ends butting tight and liners and other pieces straight with each other. I use an abundance of glue and only wipe off the bottoms for now.
Drill Wood Table Flooring Rectangle
Best to use three fairly strong squeeze clamps and the clamp for the ends pushes the bolsters and handle ends tight to each other.
Wood Tints and shades Rectangle Paint Flooring
Looks like a lot for a small operation but is very important that every joint is tight.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Flooring Handgun holster
Now allow to dry completely and tomorrow we take off the clamps. Then get rid of the glue squeeze out and square up these assembly's. PMs with questions are welcome or you can ask through comments so so all can see the answers. Good luck cutting. Thanks for looking.
.
Hello you guys. Nice to hear from you all.
Ron-I,ve tried most every glue and 95% have been made using Regular Tight Bond. I have never had a glue joint problem if I did the necessary prep. Been working on this knife batch a little more today. I had never really thought about all the steps to this seemingly simple project. I do find it somewhat difficult to explain the steps while not talking directly to you. We will forge ahead.
 

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#8 ·
Putting together those 12 parts

Today we take the glued up knife body out of the clamps. We need to square up these glued up assembly's. I use a 6 X 48" sander but use whatever you have.
Wood Tool Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Now split the two halves of the blank. They are probably stuck a little from glue squeeze out. Pry gently with something like a sharp paint scraper.
Product Wood Rectangle Font Hardwood


Now select the springs and blades from the 4 3/4" you cut earlier. Choose the 2 pcs. for the springs which has close straight grain with no imperfections as they do move as the blades are moved to open an close.
Rectangle Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plank


This is my much used spring angle guage used for several measurements during the rest of the build. This one has worked for me for many years. It is 3/8" wide X appx 7" long ans tapered 0.210 X 0.292. This taper helps with the measurements for boring and tapering of the springs and blades which must be close to exact. Notice the three marks on the tapered end. For this knife we will use only the one about 5/16" back from the front.
Brown Product Rectangle Wood Handwriting


With blank held together measure 3/4" from the handle forward on the bolster. This will be the front of the spring. Lay on its side and measure 19/32" from handle onto bolster and mark as this is blade pen distance.
Brown Wood Rectangle Handwriting Hardwood


Hold taped spring blanks with gauge as shown draw a line along the taper toward the back. Now tape blade blanks together and measure for blade notch. Cut it appx 1/2" long by 5/16 deep slightly tpered up toward toward front of blade.
Ruler Wood Office ruler Flooring Wood stain


Next with scroll saw I will cut blade notch and cut away waste from springs blanks. And easy to miss step is to sand the ends (to about 1" back) on the insides and outsides of the springs to allow them to be free for movement. Measure back 1 3/8" and make a mark which is the glue line. Now glue the springs together behind the line. Make sure they are parallel and clamp till dry. Hope I didn,t miss anything. Ask if I did. Tomorrow we will get to gluing assembly's together and setting the blades. Enjoy.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Putting together those 12 parts

Today we take the glued up knife body out of the clamps. We need to square up these glued up assembly's. I use a 6 X 48" sander but use whatever you have.
Wood Tool Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Now split the two halves of the blank. They are probably stuck a little from glue squeeze out. Pry gently with something like a sharp paint scraper.
Product Wood Rectangle Font Hardwood


Now select the springs and blades from the 4 3/4" you cut earlier. Choose the 2 pcs. for the springs which has close straight grain with no imperfections as they do move as the blades are moved to open an close.
Rectangle Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plank


This is my much used spring angle guage used for several measurements during the rest of the build. This one has worked for me for many years. It is 3/8" wide X appx 7" long ans tapered 0.210 X 0.292. This taper helps with the measurements for boring and tapering of the springs and blades which must be close to exact. Notice the three marks on the tapered end. For this knife we will use only the one about 5/16" back from the front.
Brown Product Rectangle Wood Handwriting


With blank held together measure 3/4" from the handle forward on the bolster. This will be the front of the spring. Lay on its side and measure 19/32" from handle onto bolster and mark as this is blade pen distance.
Brown Wood Rectangle Handwriting Hardwood


Hold taped spring blanks with gauge as shown draw a line along the taper toward the back. Now tape blade blanks together and measure for blade notch. Cut it appx 1/2" long by 5/16 deep slightly tpered up toward toward front of blade.
Ruler Wood Office ruler Flooring Wood stain


Next with scroll saw I will cut blade notch and cut away waste from springs blanks. And easy to miss step is to sand the ends (to about 1" back) on the insides and outsides of the springs to allow them to be free for movement. Measure back 1 3/8" and make a mark which is the glue line. Now glue the springs together behind the line. Make sure they are parallel and clamp till dry. Hope I didn,t miss anything. Ask if I did. Tomorrow we will get to gluing assembly's together and setting the blades. Enjoy.
Very nicely details Vernon
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Some critical fitting in this entry

Welcome back everyone. I must say again that I did not realize how many steps to this until doing this blog. I am not sorry I have made so many of these knives as they have paid a bunch toward buying my shop tools plus I still like the challenge of making each one better. Enough philosophy on with the show.
If you plan on signing or dating now is the time. I do mine with a cheap wood burner.
Rectangle Wood Beige Floor Flooring


Now glue the spring assy. to the handle assys. And important point here is to put the back clamp on first then turn knife over and push the front tip of the springs up about 1/16" then put on the middle clamp.
Musical instrument Musical instrument accessory Wood String instrument accessory Hardwood


This move allows you to put tension on the blade to spring setting later.
Wood Rectangle Material property Hardwood Wood stain


Allow time for glue to dry . This next step can be eliminated if you want as these steps are mostly for looks. This is to put pins in the lower middle handle and the back bolster.
Wood Ruler Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle


Use a 3/32" bit to drill these holes. #10 copper electric wire fits these holes real tight. Cut some 1 1/4" pieces and sharpen one end just a little, lube with candle wax then push thru the holes with pliers. Cut the protruding ends and grind them flat to the knife body.
Brown Wood Rectangle Ruler Office ruler


Now on to more critical fit stuff. Test that you have freedom of movement in the non-glued portion of the springs. Using a left over piece of spring waste material push against the springs and make sure you have a little movement both up and down. On to preparing to set the blades. On the front bolster make a mark 7/32" up from bottom then another mark up 1/4" up from that. With this line and the previously mark 19/32" from the handle make a cross. This will be the blade pivot hole.
Ruler Wood Watch Wood stain Office ruler

When you place the blade blanks into the knife body and use the spring and a clamp to apply pressure is where you get the spring operating tension.
Wood Tool Hand tool Hardwood Wood stain


When you put the clamp and gauge on the blades resting against the springs look to see that you have just enough pressure to push the springs almost up to level with the bottom of the knife body and make sure the blades are pushed back tight against the spring ends. Take this clamped assy to drill press and drill a 3/32" hole thru the bolsters and blades. Remove the clamp and take a break and we will set and shape the blades tomorrow. Thanks for hanging in there. Ask questions if you would like.
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Some critical fitting in this entry

Welcome back everyone. I must say again that I did not realize how many steps to this until doing this blog. I am not sorry I have made so many of these knives as they have paid a bunch toward buying my shop tools plus I still like the challenge of making each one better. Enough philosophy on with the show.
If you plan on signing or dating now is the time. I do mine with a cheap wood burner.
Rectangle Wood Beige Floor Flooring


Now glue the spring assy. to the handle assys. And important point here is to put the back clamp on first then turn knife over and push the front tip of the springs up about 1/16" then put on the middle clamp.
Musical instrument Musical instrument accessory Wood String instrument accessory Hardwood


This move allows you to put tension on the blade to spring setting later.
Wood Rectangle Material property Hardwood Wood stain


Allow time for glue to dry . This next step can be eliminated if you want as these steps are mostly for looks. This is to put pins in the lower middle handle and the back bolster.
Wood Ruler Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle


Use a 3/32" bit to drill these holes. #10 copper electric wire fits these holes real tight. Cut some 1 1/4" pieces and sharpen one end just a little, lube with candle wax then push thru the holes with pliers. Cut the protruding ends and grind them flat to the knife body.
Brown Wood Rectangle Ruler Office ruler


Now on to more critical fit stuff. Test that you have freedom of movement in the non-glued portion of the springs. Using a left over piece of spring waste material push against the springs and make sure you have a little movement both up and down. On to preparing to set the blades. On the front bolster make a mark 7/32" up from bottom then another mark up 1/4" up from that. With this line and the previously mark 19/32" from the handle make a cross. This will be the blade pivot hole.
Ruler Wood Watch Wood stain Office ruler

When you place the blade blanks into the knife body and use the spring and a clamp to apply pressure is where you get the spring operating tension.
Wood Tool Hand tool Hardwood Wood stain


When you put the clamp and gauge on the blades resting against the springs look to see that you have just enough pressure to push the springs almost up to level with the bottom of the knife body and make sure the blades are pushed back tight against the spring ends. Take this clamped assy to drill press and drill a 3/32" hole thru the bolsters and blades. Remove the clamp and take a break and we will set and shape the blades tomorrow. Thanks for hanging in there. Ask questions if you would like.
Nice work, Vernon!!
 

Attachments

#18 ·
Setting,Shapening the Blades and Body

Lets work the blades. Hold them together and put them into the body with bolster and blade holes in line. Push down on them a bit and push a sharpened 6p nail thru all four parts.
Ruler Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain
Wood Hardwood Natural material Pattern Rectangle


Shape the back end of the blades as shown in the picture. The nail will be the temporary pin for a while.
Extra careful now as I have broken a spring in some of these next steps. You now have tension between the blade ends and the spring ends. Now one at a time gently close a blade half way then finish to close slowly. When it is closed as much as it can mark the length at the end of where it will rest when finished. Now open it back and do the same with the other blade. Take the pin out and cut both blades to length where marked. Now shape the blades to a similar shape as shown in second picture. You can shape them like mine or like a knife you may have. You can draw the shape on and cut out with a scroll or bandsaw. Shape further with a sander. Put the blades back into the body with the pin in and see if they will close down into the body. There should be tension when open all the way. When half open the tension should be relaxed and then have very slight tension when closed all the way. Until you are used to this procedure you may have to take them in and out several times to sand and shape to make the action as described above.
Wood Tool Knife Tree Blade


Congratulations then you have got this working the most tedious part is done. I know you want to shot me but now the fun parts. Time to shape the knife body assembly to resemble my knife or one you have or from a picture but for now keep it simple. When you have the body shaped and sanded smooth I would give it a coat of spray can lacquer. If you have not already cut the finger nail groove and and the taper to form the tang which is just above the notch in the lower blade. You have been shaping the blades now finish them by sanding with a little belt sander to make them look like a real knife blade. If you plan on writing on the blade tang now is the time. Next I give them a heavy coat of spray shellac.
Wood Publication Musical instrument Wood stain Hardwood
You need not do more to the blades now but you will probably want to sand and put another couple coats of lacquer on the body. Next session will the last and we will finish pinning and spacing the blades into the body.
 

Attachments

#19 ·
Setting,Shapening the Blades and Body

Lets work the blades. Hold them together and put them into the body with bolster and blade holes in line. Push down on them a bit and push a sharpened 6p nail thru all four parts.
Ruler Table Wood Rectangle Wood stain
Wood Hardwood Natural material Pattern Rectangle


Shape the back end of the blades as shown in the picture. The nail will be the temporary pin for a while.
Extra careful now as I have broken a spring in some of these next steps. You now have tension between the blade ends and the spring ends. Now one at a time gently close a blade half way then finish to close slowly. When it is closed as much as it can mark the length at the end of where it will rest when finished. Now open it back and do the same with the other blade. Take the pin out and cut both blades to length where marked. Now shape the blades to a similar shape as shown in second picture. You can shape them like mine or like a knife you may have. You can draw the shape on and cut out with a scroll or bandsaw. Shape further with a sander. Put the blades back into the body with the pin in and see if they will close down into the body. There should be tension when open all the way. When half open the tension should be relaxed and then have very slight tension when closed all the way. Until you are used to this procedure you may have to take them in and out several times to sand and shape to make the action as described above.
Wood Tool Knife Tree Blade


Congratulations then you have got this working the most tedious part is done. I know you want to shot me but now the fun parts. Time to shape the knife body assembly to resemble my knife or one you have or from a picture but for now keep it simple. When you have the body shaped and sanded smooth I would give it a coat of spray can lacquer. If you have not already cut the finger nail groove and and the taper to form the tang which is just above the notch in the lower blade. You have been shaping the blades now finish them by sanding with a little belt sander to make them look like a real knife blade. If you plan on writing on the blade tang now is the time. Next I give them a heavy coat of spray shellac.
Wood Publication Musical instrument Wood stain Hardwood
You need not do more to the blades now but you will probably want to sand and put another couple coats of lacquer on the body. Next session will the last and we will finish pinning and spacing the blades into the body.
coming right along, Vernon.
 

Attachments

#22 ·
Final Assembly and Finish

Hello again,
We will be putting together assembly's that we have been working on to come up with a whole folding all wood pocket knife. Get your finished and sanded blades and rub some candle wax on all the areas around the pin holes. Now take your recently finished knife body and place the blades in it. Use the nail to again pin those parts together. Make sure they operate to your satisfaction. You will need a thin metal spacer (my spacer is 0.017 thick) to keep the moving parts from being to tight after you tap the pin with a light hammer to flatten the ends. Put the spacer as shown and pull out the nail and push in the copper pin. Then clip the protruding ends.
Wood Material property Tool Metal Flooring
Sand the ends flush. As you can see in the picture I have a small 1 1/2" piece of angle iron on the corner of my bench just for light pounding jobs. Tap the pin ends two or three times to flatten them. You will not be able to see put this actually swells the ends just a bit.
Wood Knife Tool Hunting knife Blade

OK pull out the spacer and test opening and closing the blades. I hope you have just the right tension on them so if you open half way then just use a little push with your thumb the blade will just pop open with a little click. Same way to close. Even if they don,t click you will be able to show your friends how the springs move as you open and close. The last thing I do is to mask the installed blades with something like a post-a note and give the body another coat of nice shiny lacquer.
Hand tool Tool Wood Natural material Metal


YOU ARE FINISHED "congratulations". I really to hope to hear from some of you that you did finish a knife. I did finish the three I worked on while doing this blog.
Wood Tableware Tool Utility knife Plant


Thanks for reading, looking and comments.
 

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#23 ·
Final Assembly and Finish

Hello again,
We will be putting together assembly's that we have been working on to come up with a whole folding all wood pocket knife. Get your finished and sanded blades and rub some candle wax on all the areas around the pin holes. Now take your recently finished knife body and place the blades in it. Use the nail to again pin those parts together. Make sure they operate to your satisfaction. You will need a thin metal spacer (my spacer is 0.017 thick) to keep the moving parts from being to tight after you tap the pin with a light hammer to flatten the ends. Put the spacer as shown and pull out the nail and push in the copper pin. Then clip the protruding ends.
Wood Material property Tool Metal Flooring
Sand the ends flush. As you can see in the picture I have a small 1 1/2" piece of angle iron on the corner of my bench just for light pounding jobs. Tap the pin ends two or three times to flatten them. You will not be able to see put this actually swells the ends just a bit.
Wood Knife Tool Hunting knife Blade

OK pull out the spacer and test opening and closing the blades. I hope you have just the right tension on them so if you open half way then just use a little push with your thumb the blade will just pop open with a little click. Same way to close. Even if they don,t click you will be able to show your friends how the springs move as you open and close. The last thing I do is to mask the installed blades with something like a post-a note and give the body another coat of nice shiny lacquer.
Hand tool Tool Wood Natural material Metal


YOU ARE FINISHED "congratulations". I really to hope to hear from some of you that you did finish a knife. I did finish the three I worked on while doing this blog.
Wood Tableware Tool Utility knife Plant


Thanks for reading, looking and comments.
Excellent, Vernon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

JIm
 

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