Today we take the glued up knife body out of the clamps. We need to square up these glued up assembly’s. I use a 6 X 48” sander but use whatever you have.
Now split the two halves of the blank. They are probably stuck a little from glue squeeze out. Pry gently with something like a sharp paint scraper.
Now select the springs and blades from the 4 3/4” you cut earlier. Choose the 2 pcs. for the springs which has close straight grain with no imperfections as they do move as the blades are moved to open an close.
This is my much used spring angle guage used for several measurements during the rest of the build. This one has worked for me for many years. It is 3/8” wide X appx 7” long ans tapered 0.210 X 0.292. This taper helps with the measurements for boring and tapering of the springs and blades which must be close to exact. Notice the three marks on the tapered end. For this knife we will use only the one about 5/16” back from the front.
With blank held together measure 3/4” from the handle forward on the bolster. This will be the front of the spring. Lay on its side and measure 19/32” from handle onto bolster and mark as this is blade pen distance.
Hold taped spring blanks with gauge as shown draw a line along the taper toward the back. Now tape blade blanks together and measure for blade notch. Cut it appx 1/2” long by 5/16 deep slightly tpered up toward toward front of blade.
Next with scroll saw I will cut blade notch and cut away waste from springs blanks. And easy to miss step is to sand the ends (to about 1” back) on the insides and outsides of the springs to allow them to be free for movement. Measure back 1 3/8” and make a mark which is the glue line. Now glue the springs together behind the line. Make sure they are parallel and clamp till dry. Hope I didn,t miss anything. Ask if I did. Tomorrow we will get to gluing assembly’s together and setting the blades. Enjoy.
-- I,ve had amnesia for as long as I can remember. Vernon