LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

Dulcimer #2 Build 1st entry

12K views 35 replies 13 participants last post by  poospleasures 
#1 ·
July 30

Some of you all asked for this, hope you are not sorry. You can look back to my projects to see my first which is a teardrop style. This will be a hourglass style made from walnut and maple.Started the day by drawing a plan then cutting and planing some walnut for the sides 1 7/8 by appx. 34 by .130 which will be .125 after sanding. Since this is a hourglass style you need a form for the steam bent sides I made the form from some 2Ă—4's glued side to side for the width and added a piece of 3/8" plywood for thickness. Traced the pattern on this then cut the line out with the band saw. I made a steam tube for bending thin stock many years ago and remembered it did not work to well. The trick of today was not to use the fancy hot plate, kettle (could not find the kettle) and hose. The wifey loaned me her little electric water boiler. Mounted the tube with one end open vertically to the side of a table just touching and covering the boiler opening. Next slide the now top end cap off and insert one of the sides with a thin wire to hold it just below the top an let it dangle inside the tube. Replace the cap. Turn on the little water boiler and make a bunch of steam. Surprisingly after about 20 to 30 minutes in the boiling water steam the thin wood was very pliable and not to hot to the touch. I did kinda hurry to get it clamped into the form. About an hour later started the other side in the steamer. When it was ready took off all the clamps and put this one in on the other side of the form. The other one only moved a little bit. Reclamped both sides in the form. Plan on taking out in a couple days. The steam tube is made from schedule 40 tubing with a cap on one end and a screw in plug on the other. See the pictures to maybe get an idea of what was said. Thanks for looking. I will run this blog as progress is made as long as interest is shown. I do welcome comments and PM's
Wood Gas Machine Composite material Metal


Bicycle tire Wood Bicycle part Musical instrument accessory Bicycle fork


Wood Metal Hardwood Tool Font


Gas Engineering Composite material Cylinder Machine


Wood Gas Machine Engineering Ingredient
 

Attachments

See less See more
10
#2 ·
July 30

Some of you all asked for this, hope you are not sorry. You can look back to my projects to see my first which is a teardrop style. This will be a hourglass style made from walnut and maple.Started the day by drawing a plan then cutting and planing some walnut for the sides 1 7/8 by appx. 34 by .130 which will be .125 after sanding. Since this is a hourglass style you need a form for the steam bent sides I made the form from some 2Ă—4's glued side to side for the width and added a piece of 3/8" plywood for thickness. Traced the pattern on this then cut the line out with the band saw. I made a steam tube for bending thin stock many years ago and remembered it did not work to well. The trick of today was not to use the fancy hot plate, kettle (could not find the kettle) and hose. The wifey loaned me her little electric water boiler. Mounted the tube with one end open vertically to the side of a table just touching and covering the boiler opening. Next slide the now top end cap off and insert one of the sides with a thin wire to hold it just below the top an let it dangle inside the tube. Replace the cap. Turn on the little water boiler and make a bunch of steam. Surprisingly after about 20 to 30 minutes in the boiling water steam the thin wood was very pliable and not to hot to the touch. I did kinda hurry to get it clamped into the form. About an hour later started the other side in the steamer. When it was ready took off all the clamps and put this one in on the other side of the form. The other one only moved a little bit. Reclamped both sides in the form. Plan on taking out in a couple days. The steam tube is made from schedule 40 tubing with a cap on one end and a screw in plug on the other. See the pictures to maybe get an idea of what was said. Thanks for looking. I will run this blog as progress is made as long as interest is shown. I do welcome comments and PM's
Wood Gas Machine Composite material Metal


Bicycle tire Wood Bicycle part Musical instrument accessory Bicycle fork


Wood Metal Hardwood Tool Font


Gas Engineering Composite material Cylinder Machine


Wood Gas Machine Engineering Ingredient
Thanks for getting started and keeping us updated on the building process .
I love steam bending and one thing I have done lately is add fabric softener to the water and it seems to make the wood more pliable .
Watching with interest and looking forward to the next installment .
 

Attachments

#3 ·
July 30

Some of you all asked for this, hope you are not sorry. You can look back to my projects to see my first which is a teardrop style. This will be a hourglass style made from walnut and maple.Started the day by drawing a plan then cutting and planing some walnut for the sides 1 7/8 by appx. 34 by .130 which will be .125 after sanding. Since this is a hourglass style you need a form for the steam bent sides I made the form from some 2Ă—4's glued side to side for the width and added a piece of 3/8" plywood for thickness. Traced the pattern on this then cut the line out with the band saw. I made a steam tube for bending thin stock many years ago and remembered it did not work to well. The trick of today was not to use the fancy hot plate, kettle (could not find the kettle) and hose. The wifey loaned me her little electric water boiler. Mounted the tube with one end open vertically to the side of a table just touching and covering the boiler opening. Next slide the now top end cap off and insert one of the sides with a thin wire to hold it just below the top an let it dangle inside the tube. Replace the cap. Turn on the little water boiler and make a bunch of steam. Surprisingly after about 20 to 30 minutes in the boiling water steam the thin wood was very pliable and not to hot to the touch. I did kinda hurry to get it clamped into the form. About an hour later started the other side in the steamer. When it was ready took off all the clamps and put this one in on the other side of the form. The other one only moved a little bit. Reclamped both sides in the form. Plan on taking out in a couple days. The steam tube is made from schedule 40 tubing with a cap on one end and a screw in plug on the other. See the pictures to maybe get an idea of what was said. Thanks for looking. I will run this blog as progress is made as long as interest is shown. I do welcome comments and PM's
Wood Gas Machine Composite material Metal


Bicycle tire Wood Bicycle part Musical instrument accessory Bicycle fork


Wood Metal Hardwood Tool Font


Gas Engineering Composite material Cylinder Machine


Wood Gas Machine Engineering Ingredient
Sounds like you've got it goin on Vernon. Very interesting.
 

Attachments

#4 ·
July 30

Some of you all asked for this, hope you are not sorry. You can look back to my projects to see my first which is a teardrop style. This will be a hourglass style made from walnut and maple.Started the day by drawing a plan then cutting and planing some walnut for the sides 1 7/8 by appx. 34 by .130 which will be .125 after sanding. Since this is a hourglass style you need a form for the steam bent sides I made the form from some 2Ă—4's glued side to side for the width and added a piece of 3/8" plywood for thickness. Traced the pattern on this then cut the line out with the band saw. I made a steam tube for bending thin stock many years ago and remembered it did not work to well. The trick of today was not to use the fancy hot plate, kettle (could not find the kettle) and hose. The wifey loaned me her little electric water boiler. Mounted the tube with one end open vertically to the side of a table just touching and covering the boiler opening. Next slide the now top end cap off and insert one of the sides with a thin wire to hold it just below the top an let it dangle inside the tube. Replace the cap. Turn on the little water boiler and make a bunch of steam. Surprisingly after about 20 to 30 minutes in the boiling water steam the thin wood was very pliable and not to hot to the touch. I did kinda hurry to get it clamped into the form. About an hour later started the other side in the steamer. When it was ready took off all the clamps and put this one in on the other side of the form. The other one only moved a little bit. Reclamped both sides in the form. Plan on taking out in a couple days. The steam tube is made from schedule 40 tubing with a cap on one end and a screw in plug on the other. See the pictures to maybe get an idea of what was said. Thanks for looking. I will run this blog as progress is made as long as interest is shown. I do welcome comments and PM's
Wood Gas Machine Composite material Metal


Bicycle tire Wood Bicycle part Musical instrument accessory Bicycle fork


Wood Metal Hardwood Tool Font


Gas Engineering Composite material Cylinder Machine


Wood Gas Machine Engineering Ingredient
This is going to be FUN !
I enjoy watching someone else do it but I would run out of patience LONG before anything noticeable was accomplished.
Thanks for sharing Vernon
 

Attachments

#5 ·
July 30

Some of you all asked for this, hope you are not sorry. You can look back to my projects to see my first which is a teardrop style. This will be a hourglass style made from walnut and maple.Started the day by drawing a plan then cutting and planing some walnut for the sides 1 7/8 by appx. 34 by .130 which will be .125 after sanding. Since this is a hourglass style you need a form for the steam bent sides I made the form from some 2Ă—4's glued side to side for the width and added a piece of 3/8" plywood for thickness. Traced the pattern on this then cut the line out with the band saw. I made a steam tube for bending thin stock many years ago and remembered it did not work to well. The trick of today was not to use the fancy hot plate, kettle (could not find the kettle) and hose. The wifey loaned me her little electric water boiler. Mounted the tube with one end open vertically to the side of a table just touching and covering the boiler opening. Next slide the now top end cap off and insert one of the sides with a thin wire to hold it just below the top an let it dangle inside the tube. Replace the cap. Turn on the little water boiler and make a bunch of steam. Surprisingly after about 20 to 30 minutes in the boiling water steam the thin wood was very pliable and not to hot to the touch. I did kinda hurry to get it clamped into the form. About an hour later started the other side in the steamer. When it was ready took off all the clamps and put this one in on the other side of the form. The other one only moved a little bit. Reclamped both sides in the form. Plan on taking out in a couple days. The steam tube is made from schedule 40 tubing with a cap on one end and a screw in plug on the other. See the pictures to maybe get an idea of what was said. Thanks for looking. I will run this blog as progress is made as long as interest is shown. I do welcome comments and PM's
Wood Gas Machine Composite material Metal


Bicycle tire Wood Bicycle part Musical instrument accessory Bicycle fork


Wood Metal Hardwood Tool Font


Gas Engineering Composite material Cylinder Machine


Wood Gas Machine Engineering Ingredient
Vernon,

Thanks for sharing this information. While we may never have the opportunity to build a dulcimer, it is really interesting following your progress.

L/W
 

Attachments

#6 ·
July 30

Some of you all asked for this, hope you are not sorry. You can look back to my projects to see my first which is a teardrop style. This will be a hourglass style made from walnut and maple.Started the day by drawing a plan then cutting and planing some walnut for the sides 1 7/8 by appx. 34 by .130 which will be .125 after sanding. Since this is a hourglass style you need a form for the steam bent sides I made the form from some 2Ă—4's glued side to side for the width and added a piece of 3/8" plywood for thickness. Traced the pattern on this then cut the line out with the band saw. I made a steam tube for bending thin stock many years ago and remembered it did not work to well. The trick of today was not to use the fancy hot plate, kettle (could not find the kettle) and hose. The wifey loaned me her little electric water boiler. Mounted the tube with one end open vertically to the side of a table just touching and covering the boiler opening. Next slide the now top end cap off and insert one of the sides with a thin wire to hold it just below the top an let it dangle inside the tube. Replace the cap. Turn on the little water boiler and make a bunch of steam. Surprisingly after about 20 to 30 minutes in the boiling water steam the thin wood was very pliable and not to hot to the touch. I did kinda hurry to get it clamped into the form. About an hour later started the other side in the steamer. When it was ready took off all the clamps and put this one in on the other side of the form. The other one only moved a little bit. Reclamped both sides in the form. Plan on taking out in a couple days. The steam tube is made from schedule 40 tubing with a cap on one end and a screw in plug on the other. See the pictures to maybe get an idea of what was said. Thanks for looking. I will run this blog as progress is made as long as interest is shown. I do welcome comments and PM's
Wood Gas Machine Composite material Metal


Bicycle tire Wood Bicycle part Musical instrument accessory Bicycle fork


Wood Metal Hardwood Tool Font


Gas Engineering Composite material Cylinder Machine


Wood Gas Machine Engineering Ingredient
Dulcimer eh? I had better go look up what a Dulcimer is

The process looks interesting though !!
 

Attachments

#7 ·
2nd entry

Took the sides out of the form today. There was a bit of spring back to them. Made a bunch of blocks to hold sides to the center form piece.
Wood Natural material Hardwood Plywood Varnish


Made the tail piece which is a glued assy. It will be glued between the back end of the side pieces. It starts to get tricky now. The wedge or part that looks like a dovetail should be exactly as thick as the sides are tall. The part glued to the back should extend on the bottom of assy as thick as your back appx. .125 to .130. On the top side leave it about 3/4 to 7/8 longer. This is where the rear of strings attach. All 4 sides will receive glue during assembly
Tableware Rectangle Wood Table Flooring


Next make the peg or neck piece which gets a bit more complicated. The rear of this part slides between the front of the side pieces, it should extend on the bottom side to about the thickness of the back panel and on the front side about an inch which is about the height needed for the top panel/sound board and the fret board both which but up to this piece. All 4 sides of this will receive glue during assembly.
Brown Wood Rectangle Hardwood Flooring


This is the tail piece in position at the back of the assy.
Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


More on the tooling of the neck in the next installment.
Just remember these instructions are coming to you from an amateur these things did work for the first one I made but the hour glass style seems to be much harder to do. If the glue does not hold I guess it will explode when taken out of the clamps. Thanks for staying with me. Comments and PM's welcome.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
2nd entry

Took the sides out of the form today. There was a bit of spring back to them. Made a bunch of blocks to hold sides to the center form piece.
Wood Natural material Hardwood Plywood Varnish


Made the tail piece which is a glued assy. It will be glued between the back end of the side pieces. It starts to get tricky now. The wedge or part that looks like a dovetail should be exactly as thick as the sides are tall. The part glued to the back should extend on the bottom of assy as thick as your back appx. .125 to .130. On the top side leave it about 3/4 to 7/8 longer. This is where the rear of strings attach. All 4 sides will receive glue during assembly
Tableware Rectangle Wood Table Flooring


Next make the peg or neck piece which gets a bit more complicated. The rear of this part slides between the front of the side pieces, it should extend on the bottom side to about the thickness of the back panel and on the front side about an inch which is about the height needed for the top panel/sound board and the fret board both which but up to this piece. All 4 sides of this will receive glue during assembly.
Brown Wood Rectangle Hardwood Flooring


This is the tail piece in position at the back of the assy.
Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


More on the tooling of the neck in the next installment.
Just remember these instructions are coming to you from an amateur these things did work for the first one I made but the hour glass style seems to be much harder to do. If the glue does not hold I guess it will explode when taken out of the clamps. Thanks for staying with me. Comments and PM's welcome.
Good stuff Vernon
 

Attachments

#16 ·
entry #4

Welcome back everyone. Hope this holds your interest for a while longer. I am really finding out a lot of stuff as this build progresses. This has been a very long day as a problem was found and had to be overcome are all was lost on the project. Things do get more exacting as we go along.
Wood Flooring Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


There was a question about the neck scroll, it was cut all the thru on the band saw and will be relief carved a little bit. As you can see the bottom has been trimmed and sanded flush with the sides. Next I found a problem of sorts. There was a small bow (about 1/8") up in the bottom and the sides right about where the outer blocks are in place. I do not know what caused this but it did take a long time of adjusting spacers to push the sides out just a bit and the area where the blocks are is shimmed at the top to push the upper rim in a bit. As there are extra glue blocks just to the inside of these I believe the level will be held when the sound board assembly is glued in place. All of this trial and error finally caused the bow to settle back down and lay flush with the mdf mounting board. Those inside spacers w/holes also act as sound baffles.
Wood Artifact Art Composite material Building


Another view of the inside with all parts in place.
Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


A view of the back side of the sound board tacked to the fret/fingerboard for final fitting. Notice the groove in the center it is for better sound.
Wood Natural material Table Wood stain Hardwood


The fret finger board and sound board viewed from the top side. It is ready for fitting to the body and checking for straight and level. The fret finger board must be 100% straight. more on this later.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood String instrument accessory Varnish


Drew the leaf and stem sound hole openings and cut out on the scroll saw earlier. They are not sanded yet.
Musical instrument Wood Natural material Hardwood Wood stain


Top assembly fits nice and tight and is level all around. The fret grooves will be sawed tomorrow and if nothing goes out of whack will glue the top assembly on tomorrow afternoon.
 

Attachments

#17 ·
entry #4

Welcome back everyone. Hope this holds your interest for a while longer. I am really finding out a lot of stuff as this build progresses. This has been a very long day as a problem was found and had to be overcome are all was lost on the project. Things do get more exacting as we go along.
Wood Flooring Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


There was a question about the neck scroll, it was cut all the thru on the band saw and will be relief carved a little bit. As you can see the bottom has been trimmed and sanded flush with the sides. Next I found a problem of sorts. There was a small bow (about 1/8") up in the bottom and the sides right about where the outer blocks are in place. I do not know what caused this but it did take a long time of adjusting spacers to push the sides out just a bit and the area where the blocks are is shimmed at the top to push the upper rim in a bit. As there are extra glue blocks just to the inside of these I believe the level will be held when the sound board assembly is glued in place. All of this trial and error finally caused the bow to settle back down and lay flush with the mdf mounting board. Those inside spacers w/holes also act as sound baffles.
Wood Artifact Art Composite material Building


Another view of the inside with all parts in place.
Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


A view of the back side of the sound board tacked to the fret/fingerboard for final fitting. Notice the groove in the center it is for better sound.
Wood Natural material Table Wood stain Hardwood


The fret finger board and sound board viewed from the top side. It is ready for fitting to the body and checking for straight and level. The fret finger board must be 100% straight. more on this later.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood String instrument accessory Varnish


Drew the leaf and stem sound hole openings and cut out on the scroll saw earlier. They are not sanded yet.
Musical instrument Wood Natural material Hardwood Wood stain


Top assembly fits nice and tight and is level all around. The fret grooves will be sawed tomorrow and if nothing goes out of whack will glue the top assembly on tomorrow afternoon.
You are moving along just nicely even with some problems you encountered .
It sure is interesting and I enjoy it a lot .
 

Attachments

#22 ·
entry #5

On we go with this (fun to me) build. Had planned on getting the sound board glued on yesterday. I had a lot of company instead. One of my visitors was a friend who is a very accomplished Luither. He has been guiding me with tips and advice during these two builds. I should also give credit to the guy at the music store and to my wife's music teacher as they are also full of tips and information also.
Today starts with preparing the fret/finger board and sound boards in the sound board assembly. This takes a fairly long time. A mistake I made on the first build was to cut the fret slots too narrow.
Wood Musical instrument accessory Musical instrument String instrument accessory Hardwood


I cut them with an .018 saw and it should have been .024. This made the frets very hard to drive in and did force the wood to bow up as the sides of the fret wire was pushing it too hard. This bow in the assembly would not allow for string note intonation and caused some string buzzing against the frets. My friend saw this right away and didn't mention he had told me this could happen but did say that I could help by filing down the frets some. I spent yesterday afternoon filing frets down to level. I hope you don't get into that job. It did help the tune some. He reinforced what I read on line about sanding a long downward slope from the #1 fret to the last #18. The slope should begin and end at about .005 and be about .015. in the middle.
Table Rectangle Wood Shelf Wood stain


The saddle and the nut are stuck in place just for the pics. Notice the strum hollow is cut

Musical instrument Guitar String instrument String instrument accessory Guitar accessory


The board was pre- finished before doing the fret work. 1 1/2 hours later the frets were all in place with the ends filed and rounded over.
Brown Wood Table Rectangle Flooring


Wood Natural material Table Wood stain Hardwood


A thin string of glue was applied to the tops of the walnut side pieces and aliberal amount to the top of the neck and tail piece.
Shoe Wood Sports equipment Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Recreation


It is now hurry and put the sound board assembly into place and apply lots of clamps.
Wood Engineering Gas Machine Pipe


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Flooring


Sorry this was so long. Maybe if you can bear with me you will still enjoy this build with me. As always thanks. Comments and PM's welcom
 

Attachments

#23 ·
entry #5

On we go with this (fun to me) build. Had planned on getting the sound board glued on yesterday. I had a lot of company instead. One of my visitors was a friend who is a very accomplished Luither. He has been guiding me with tips and advice during these two builds. I should also give credit to the guy at the music store and to my wife's music teacher as they are also full of tips and information also.
Today starts with preparing the fret/finger board and sound boards in the sound board assembly. This takes a fairly long time. A mistake I made on the first build was to cut the fret slots too narrow.
Wood Musical instrument accessory Musical instrument String instrument accessory Hardwood


I cut them with an .018 saw and it should have been .024. This made the frets very hard to drive in and did force the wood to bow up as the sides of the fret wire was pushing it too hard. This bow in the assembly would not allow for string note intonation and caused some string buzzing against the frets. My friend saw this right away and didn't mention he had told me this could happen but did say that I could help by filing down the frets some. I spent yesterday afternoon filing frets down to level. I hope you don't get into that job. It did help the tune some. He reinforced what I read on line about sanding a long downward slope from the #1 fret to the last #18. The slope should begin and end at about .005 and be about .015. in the middle.
Table Rectangle Wood Shelf Wood stain


The saddle and the nut are stuck in place just for the pics. Notice the strum hollow is cut

Musical instrument Guitar String instrument String instrument accessory Guitar accessory


The board was pre- finished before doing the fret work. 1 1/2 hours later the frets were all in place with the ends filed and rounded over.
Brown Wood Table Rectangle Flooring


Wood Natural material Table Wood stain Hardwood


A thin string of glue was applied to the tops of the walnut side pieces and aliberal amount to the top of the neck and tail piece.
Shoe Wood Sports equipment Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Recreation


It is now hurry and put the sound board assembly into place and apply lots of clamps.
Wood Engineering Gas Machine Pipe


Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood Flooring


Sorry this was so long. Maybe if you can bear with me you will still enjoy this build with me. As always thanks. Comments and PM's welcom
In the narrative you spoke of filing the frets. Do you actually crown them or am I not getting it? We built a few cigar box ukeleles, I did not see anything about crowning the frets. I used a Dozuki Japanese saw to cut the frets.
Thanks for doing this blog.
 

Attachments

#29 ·
entry# 6

Hello again to you all. This entry will be somewhat different as things being done now do not show in the pictures. Some of these are not really a big help to you but may make you think sign your work.
Font Tints and shades Circle Wood Peach


Looking into a sound hole to show signing and dating and showing I am not very good at wood burning.

The back side just received its last finish coat a few minutes ago. Notice the small dot on the back of the neck. That is an oak dowel which runs thru the scroll cut to add strength as the short grain in the cut is fairly weak.

Musical instrument Guitar accessory Wood String instrument accessory Musical instrument accessory


Tuners in place.

Musical instrument String instrument Guitar accessory Wood String instrument accessory


Mentioned the other day that my Luither friend who we will call Tom during the balance of this blog said I should file down some of the frets on the first dulcimer. I thought I did a pretty good job. I went to visit Tom today and found out I did not know what I was doing again. He helped and did most of the work to correctly file the frets on both dulcimers. This is a process in itself to lengthy for this blog. Well it works. The #1 dulcimer which did not seem to be tune able plays now. As I write this my wife has been playing it about a half hour and says it sounds very good. Tom says many musicians buying new guitars bring them in for a fret job before ever preforming with them.

Musical instrument Guitar String instrument String instrument Musical instrument accessory


Seems as if everything fits now so maybe just one more coat of finish. You can also see the three little pegs in the back piece. This gives options on string type you may use. With set up you could use three different types.

P.S. Wifey will be taking #1 with her to class tomorrow for the instructor to check it out. I will likely not blog about this build until #2 is finished and is playing OK. I welcome comments and PM's. If you would like clarification on some of this stuff PM and we can exchange phone #s because I do not type fast enough to explain. Thanks for looking.
 

Attachments

#30 ·
entry# 6

Hello again to you all. This entry will be somewhat different as things being done now do not show in the pictures. Some of these are not really a big help to you but may make you think sign your work.
Font Tints and shades Circle Wood Peach


Looking into a sound hole to show signing and dating and showing I am not very good at wood burning.

The back side just received its last finish coat a few minutes ago. Notice the small dot on the back of the neck. That is an oak dowel which runs thru the scroll cut to add strength as the short grain in the cut is fairly weak.

Musical instrument Guitar accessory Wood String instrument accessory Musical instrument accessory


Tuners in place.

Musical instrument String instrument Guitar accessory Wood String instrument accessory


Mentioned the other day that my Luither friend who we will call Tom during the balance of this blog said I should file down some of the frets on the first dulcimer. I thought I did a pretty good job. I went to visit Tom today and found out I did not know what I was doing again. He helped and did most of the work to correctly file the frets on both dulcimers. This is a process in itself to lengthy for this blog. Well it works. The #1 dulcimer which did not seem to be tune able plays now. As I write this my wife has been playing it about a half hour and says it sounds very good. Tom says many musicians buying new guitars bring them in for a fret job before ever preforming with them.

Musical instrument Guitar String instrument String instrument Musical instrument accessory


Seems as if everything fits now so maybe just one more coat of finish. You can also see the three little pegs in the back piece. This gives options on string type you may use. With set up you could use three different types.

P.S. Wifey will be taking #1 with her to class tomorrow for the instructor to check it out. I will likely not blog about this build until #2 is finished and is playing OK. I welcome comments and PM's. If you would like clarification on some of this stuff PM and we can exchange phone #s because I do not type fast enough to explain. Thanks for looking.
OMG Vernon! That is incredible. Can you put a sound file on here somehow so I/we can hear this puppy? Thnx in advance. That is awesome.
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top