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Filling the guts of your Dutch tool chest #5: Backsaw till

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Blog entry by Brad posted 07-24-2014 10:37 PM 1789 reads 1 time favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 4: Plane dividers lattice Part 5 of Filling the guts of your Dutch tool chest series Part 6: Tool Rack »

My original thought was to store four backsaws.

1. Disston 10” dovetail.
2. Disston 12” carcass.
3. Disston 16” tenon, XC.
4. Spear & Jackson 14” tenon.

Note that this many backsaws can make for some cramped conditions. So to prevent the backsaw till from turning into a game of Tetris, I opted to go with a single tenon saw. I can get away with this considering that I don’t cut deep tenons. Moreover by filing the saw at 10 degrees rake and 10 degrees of fleam, I can perform both XC and rip cuts. To fill this need, I picked up a 19th century Spear & Jackson sash saw with a 14” sawplate.

1. Disston 10” dovetail.
2. Disston 12” carcass.
3. Spear & Jackson 14” sash/tenon

Top-section Fixture: backsaw till
Having previously completed the plane divider lattice, I now could measure the space between the jack/smoother slat and the back panel. I used this measurement as the width of the till. To determine the length, I made a prototype to get a feel for what “seemed” right. Trial and error yielded the following plans.

Now to determine the till’s height, I grabbed the backsaw with the deepest sawplate and measured from the bottom of the spine to the tip of the teeth. To this I added 1” to give me a height of 4 ¼”. Considering that I used ¾” spare pine stock, that gave me ¼” of clearance between the base and the teeth of the deepest saw.

After cutting the pieces to size, I reinforced the inside faces of each side with ¼” plywood. This will prevent the breakage of the “tangs” that result from cutting the kerfs to seat the saws. I used butt joints, glue and screws to affix the sides to the base.

Once the till was assembled, I laid out the kerf lines. Then I used each respective backsaw to cut its own kerf for a snug fit. The fit was a bit too snug as it turned out. So to fix that, I worked each backsaw to and fro in its kerf from top to bottom. I used only the set of the teeth and some English, to enlarge the kerf—working first the left side, top to bottom then the right.

With the construction finished, I shellacked the fixture and dry-fitted it in the chest.

But, I didn’t install it yet. To determine the exact location of the till required that the tool rack be in place first. This would allow me to avoid any interference from the tools hanging above it.

And making the tool rack is the subject of the next post in this series.

© 2014, Brad Chittim, all rights reserved.

-- "People's lives are their own rewards or punishments."



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