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Vintage Tool Rehab Projects #21: Rehabbing a Millers Falls No. 9 Smoother-And comparing it to my trusted Stanley No. 4

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Blog entry by Brad posted 314 days ago 1251 reads 0 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 20: Restoring a 19th-Century Disston Backsaw Part 21 of Vintage Tool Rehab Projects series Part 22: A Problem-child Stanley Transitional #26 »

You’d think that Kay’s cooking would be enough to land her the title of “Life-long Friend.” And you’d be right. Her Thanksgiving spreads are legendary in our social circle. But then she shows up one day with a nice Millers Falls No. 9 smoother from an estate sale. In my book, that earned her a hefty deposit into her Karma account…plus my beaming and grateful smile.

But this is the real world and I’m a woodworker addicted to vintage hand tools. So what was Kay’s reward when her back was turned to chat with my lady? My tip-toed retreat to the shop to inspect my loot. She took it well. I’ll make it up to her. That’s what friends do.

“Estate-fresh” from the previous owner’s garage
Here’s my prize as-found.

A straight-edge confirmed that the sole was pretty flat with no wind or obvious issues. For the second time in five minutes, I smiled broadly. “Not bad at all.”

————————————————

I’m a marketer by trade (copywriter.) So I appreciate Millers Falls’ approach to differentiating their products in what was a crowded marketplace at the time. Take the lever cap. The recessed lettering proclaiming “Millers Falls” on it was a great start. So was emblazoning their brand name in bright red letters—though my example lacks that eye-catching detail. Which makes it a Type 3 made around 1941—1949 according to Old Tool Heaven’s type study.

Inspecting my 65-year-old plane
Overall, I was impressed. Let’s see…some surface rust on the sides and sole.

Add to that some minor pitting in insignificant areas.

After a minute or so, I got the inkling that this plane hasn’t seen much use. Why? For one, the blade is at full length and had but one minor nick in the edge. The back was untouched, showing prominent machine marks from the day it left the factory. The bevel wasn’t polished either. That alone doesn’t prove the plane was hardly used, the blade could have been a replacement. But it’s what I saw next that clinched it in my mind.

When I first inspected the cap-iron and iron assembly something struck me as queer.

Then it hit me. The chip breaker was affixed backwards to the iron, with the bevel up rather than down. —-shudder—- I can only image how crappy the plane performed with that setup. I’ll bet the owner cursed it too. I can just hear him saying, “I must have bought a lemon. This thing doesn’t work worth a damn!” And so it sat around his shop unused for the next 65 years, preserving its excellent condition before making its way to me. Thank you kind sir!

Rehabbing
The jiggered iron assembly aside, the overall condition of the plane is excellent. The japanning sits at about 98% and the plating on the cap iron and chip breaker is 99%. The stained hardwood knob and tote are in great shape too, so I let these be. The brass adjuster knob got a basic polishing while the knob/tote retaining nuts kept their patina. With the cosmetic bases covered, it was time to focus on making this a good user.

By definition, a smoother needs to have a very flat sole. So to identify potential low spots, I marked it up.

After a few strokes on a granite plate, I discovered a slight hollow spot in front of the mouth as well as a deeper one on the left heal portion of the sole.

Five more minutes of lapping—checking—lapping on 150 grit paper was all the flattening it needed. The edges show a few remaining low spots, but nothing to get worked up over. In fact, they will help prevent catching an edge in use.

After progressing through 220, 320 and 400 grits I had this.

Next, I sanded the sides. I did not sand them square to the sole because that would have taken far too much material off. Plus, I won’t be using this plane for shooting so there was no need to do it. I simply sanded the rust off free-hand using the same grits as the sole.

Here are the after shots.

The iron had a nick in the middle of the cutting edge which took a minute at the grinding wheel to remove. After that I reestablished a 25 degree bevel using my Veritas honing guide and polished it to a mirror finish using the scary sharp method. The back was also lapped to a mirror finish followed by a few strokes on a naked leather strop. That was sufficient to shave hair off my arm.

How does it measure up to a Stanley smoother?
I’ll be honest. I was so eager to compare this baby to my trusted Stanley Type 11 that before I did any of the sole lapping described above, I sharpened the iron. Then I plopped it in to give it a test run.

Hmmm. It was not good. And a few minutes of playing with it didn’t help any. I didn’t want to give up on it just yet so I finished my tuning activities and dropped the iron back in.

What a difference lapping the sole made. And closing up the mouth (duh!) to 1/32 of an inch. How did I miss that before? The mouth was set to 1/8” wide—yet another indicator that the previous owner didn’t know how to properly adjust his plane.

Now that the plane is properly tuned and set up it takes some very nice shavings.

And it leaves a near-mirror finish, though it’s difficult to see that in this picture.

It feels as comfortable to use as my Stanley No. 4, Type 11. And even though their date of manufacture is separated by about 25 years, there are a lot of similarities.

There are several differences too. For example, the Stanley side walls are thicker than those of the Millers Falls (MF.)

The MF’s lateral adjustment lever is much looser than the Stanley, though this doesn’t seem to affect performance. The MF’s depth adjustment feels like it has less back lash than the Stanley and it is easier to dial in the desired shaving thickness.

Based on my experience, I’d have to give the MF’s No. 9 the nod over my Stanley #4. Despite hours of fettling, I’ve never been able to get my Stanley to perform to my satisfaction. Compare that to an hour of tuning with the MF smoother which resulted in nice, fluffy shavings floating over the chip breaker.

It’s a good thing too. Because that leaves me more time to tune up my friendship skills. So the next time Kay comes over, I can practice being the attentive friend she deserves. I think I’ll start by asking, “What would you like to drink?” Yes. Marketing friendship with liquor is always a good start.

###

-- "People's lives are their own rewards or punishments."



9 comments so far

View Handtooler's profile

Handtooler

1072 posts in 763 days


#1 posted 314 days ago

Magnificant Blog! Thanks. And it’s a real keeper after your fine work.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

View CL810's profile

CL810

1967 posts in 1619 days


#2 posted 314 days ago

Interesting analysis Brad. Great rehab.

-- "It's amazing how much can go wrong when you think you know what you're doing."

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12262 posts in 2728 days


#3 posted 314 days ago

Well done on the restore. Wonder what is causing you issues with the T11.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View BigRedKnothead's profile (online now)

BigRedKnothead

4734 posts in 613 days


#4 posted 314 days ago

Good stuff Brad. I’ve spent some time comparing baileys and MF as well. I think MF knobs and totes are lacking. The base castings on bailey are thicker and better. But I always liked MF frogs, lever caps, and thicker irons.

-- Red -- "That the powerful play goes on, and you may contribute a verse." W. Whitman

View Brad's profile

Brad

840 posts in 1371 days


#5 posted 314 days ago

Wayne, this was my first plane upon getting into woodworking in 2008. So I may have overdone the tuning of it. I sanded and sanded the sole. Recently, I lapped the sole using my current level of knowledge. Then I sharpened the iron. And it does perform better. But it’s still extremely fussy. The merest adjustment to the depth knob and I can be out of whack. I’ve never had this many issues with getting a plane to work.

BRK, I’m with you brother. I too like the lever caps and thicker irons. From what I’ve seen so far the lever cap is of a superior design. It holds things in place well. It’s my first MF and I’m liking it. Perhaps I should try a Keen Kutter next?

-- "People's lives are their own rewards or punishments."

View Don W's profile (online now)

Don W

14864 posts in 1198 days


#6 posted 314 days ago

Nice blog Brad. I’ve always been amazed at the likeness of the different planes. One of my first major restore from a rusty piece of crap was a MF #10.

I like your comparison and your marketing experience shows in your writing. I often get a few paragraphs in the longer blogs and start skimming, but you hold the readers attention. Well done.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View Brad's profile

Brad

840 posts in 1371 days


#7 posted 313 days ago

Thank you Don. I always make an effort to make what I write interesting and visually appealing.

-- "People's lives are their own rewards or punishments."

View Dave's profile

Dave

11159 posts in 1471 days


#8 posted 309 days ago

Brad I have a Stanley and Miller smother. I find myself grabbing the Stanley first. I do like the Miller. But I still like the Stanley.
Great work and well written blog.

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com

View Mauricio's profile

Mauricio

6805 posts in 1782 days


#9 posted 291 days ago

Sweet plane man!

-- Mauricio - Woodstock, GA - "Confusion is the Womb of Learning, with utter conviction being it's Tomb" Prof. T.O. Nitsch

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