I read somewhere that a thinned Hide glue wash was at one time used as a preconditioned to cure blotching so have taken 2oz of Titebond Liquid Hide Glue and mixed it with 12 oz of water as a second test. The reason also for choosing the liquid hide was it was more transparent vs being a cloudy white when mixed with water and this I felt would dry more transparent.
Anyway, I sanded my sample board with 220 as prep, applied a liberal coat of the hide glue wash, let it set for a few minutes so that the wood could absorb it, then wiped it off with a paper towel. I let it dry overnight, sanded with ROS 220 just to knock off the raised grain, then applied a second coat of the Hide wash as done previously. Let it dry over night and hit it again with ROS 220.
The first thing I noticed was the figure/grain was really pronounced as compared to the mix I used in Finishing Tips #1. I then applied the dye stain but the color was not the same even though I used the same dye. It was a shade or so lighter but the grain really showed through, the cause I assume is that the dye didn’t penetrate the wood as much as with mix one.
Let that dry overnight and applied two coats of clear spray lacquer. And the figure/grain really shows through beautifully also very little blotching which was the main point of this whole thing. I would have to say even less blotching than with either Charles Neil’s or my original Gorilla White Wood glue mix.
I can’t get over how well the grain showed and no distortion of figure.
Anyway, my conclusion is that here is another very cheap way to cure the majority of blotching when working with cherry, but I have not tried it on any other species. I have a larger test sample that I am working on now and when that is done I will try to post some pictures.
Try it for yourself but on scrap samples to see if it suits you.
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