| Blog series by pintodeluxe | updated 252 days ago | 6 parts | 7518 reads | 18 comments total |
Part 1: Frame components and tabletop
I wanted to design an arts and crafts dining table that included arched rails and twin keyed tenons. I like several of the Stickley tables, but wanted something original. I like the feel of Keven Rodel’s Talesien desk, which served as inspiration for this table. The stack of parts is growing… Initial frame assembly… And the tabletop glueup…
Part 2: Long Arched Rails, and Tabletop
After pattern routing the long arched rails, it was time to turn my attention to the top. I started with 6/4 stock, all from the same log. Biscuits were placed every 6” to help with alignment and add strength. I once did an experiment with biscuits – joined two boards with biscuits (no glue) and soaked them in water for a while. I took it around to each family member to see if they could pull the boards apart—- and none could. I took the top over to Creative Woodwo...
Part 3: Breadboard Ends
Cutting the tenon with a router and edge guide jig. This is the setup described by Gregory Paolini. It works well, the only trouble is you have to flip the table several times while sneaking up on the final depth of cut. I recommend cutting only the first pass, then flip and check the fit. Cutting all the way to the shoulder will make it difficult to support the router. The jig is clamped in place, and stays put while you flip the top. Double sided jig helps align the shoulders of t...
Part 4: End Assembly Glueup and Decorative Pegs
End assembly joints are drawbored and pegged with 3/8” walnut pegs. I use this pounding block to set the walnut buttons to the right depth. The buttons conceal slotted screw holes that attach the breadboard ends. Next up is fitting the keyed tenons that connect the two end assemblies.
Part 5: Keyed Tenons are Mirror-Image
I never would have guessed that cutting 4 mortises would take all afternoon. Because the mortises are angled to match the wedges, the fitting process takes a little longer than usual. I cut the first one by hand, then decided to cut the rest at the mortiser. Cutting past the layout line on the shoulder side of the mortise will ensure the joint pulls tight. Keys installed. A few taps on the wedges and the shoulders draw up tight. The keys were cut on the bandsaw. When the k...
Part 6: Finishing Touches
Top finished Frame assembled Four-inch long T30 lags secure the top timbers. Laminated or not? By laying out my jointlines carefully, I was able to laminate some 8/4 and 5/4 together. The glueline is at the angle of the timber, so it is not visible. In addition, I laminated some thin veneers on both sides.
